Contest [Issue 59] Map Renaissance Campaign - December

[lordtanker9000 14]

 

My entry, will be published in AWS with a little extra something when contest is over.  :) 

 

 

 

 

 

Deathtrack - the bane of gold hunters, the eternal love of every Thunder and the ultimate race track. Deathtrack is quickly becoming a popular map after the recent update and unlike before it isn't rare to see Two or Three of them on the battle list. Let's talk!

 

 

Introduction:

 

Deathtrack is a map dominated by fast hulls thanks to it's huge area, attack and escape routes are long and treacherous with Shafts lying in every corner and Thunders popping out of the many hiding places around the map. An occasional Mammoth or Titan is to be found defending the flag in a well organised team. 

 

Gameplay is medium-paced, being faster than Dusseldorf but slower than Kunger and dominated by Thunder due to the large size of the map with very little close-ranged combat, Thunder's unique splash damage comes in very useful here too. As you can imagine, Shafts thrive here well though they are usually restricted to defense. Railgun doesn't do so well simply due to its warm-up, by the time you are ready to shoot your target is likely behind cover due to the many props around the map. 

 

Deathtrack has a rough size of 63 x 45 meters and an area of 2835 square meters, it is available in all battle modes, holds 24 players and unlocks at a relatively low rank of first-sergeant. 

 

 

 

 

^A spectator tour of Deathtrack.

 

 

 

 

^Deathtrack is rather popular after the Battle! button update.

 

History:

 

Like many other maps not much is known of Deathtrack's history, it was one of the first maps in the game, added on October 1st, 2009. It is possible that Deathtrack was designed with Monte-Carlo to be part of the abandoned race-mode idea as they were both designed around the same time, however nothing confirms this as far as I know. 

 

 

^ The very first version of Deathtrack, the main tweak visible in this photo is the positioning of the large building in the corner. The old version had slightly more trees than the current one.

 

 

 

 

^ The second version of Deathtrack with the improved game textures.

 

 

 

 

^ The current (Third) version of Deathtrack.

 

Bases:

 

 

 

 

 

Red Base: 

 

This area is where the Red flag is located (obviously) and where the Red team players spawn, defense is more complex than the Blue base due to the many different attack routes, the ramp serves as useful cover for would-be attackers or for jumping over a heavy hull sitting on the flag.

 

Mid-field:

 

Where most of the combat happens, just like all mid-fields. Medium hulls thrive while light hulls perish.

 

Blue Base:

 

The Blue flag lends itself well for defense, it is surrounded by broken walls in which a Firebird or Freeze can hide to ward off any attackers. The Four concrete bollards nearby also serve as useful cover for a defensive Shaft or Railgun. It's also worth mentioning that drop zones are situated better around the flag than the Red team. Overall, Blue have an advantage over Red.

 

Drop zones: 

 

Drop Zones are spread evenly between the two bases with the Blue team having a slight advantage in terms of location in relation to the vital areas, ie: flag and sniping spots. Abundant Speed Boosts are a huge plus due to the long attack routes.

 

 

 

This graph demonstrates the abundance of Repair kits which is unusual.

 

Attack Routes:

 

Red Team:

 

 

 

 

In my experience this has been the best attack route, fast hulls are best for attacking here as speed boost and repair kit are both available and the bridge offers cover from snipers standing behind the Five concrete blocks. (Not visible in the picture) Try to make random sharp turns while driving down the straight to avoid being killed. Watch out for shafts when you go round the corner.

 

Blue Team:

 

 

 

 

Medium hulls are best for attacking the Red base, in my experience it's a bad idea to go through the Red base as you tend to get killed pretty quick! If there is a flag sitter; a fast hull is a great option as it can jump over. Not really much else to say.

 

Mining Positions: 

 

 

 

 

Red Team:

 

 

 

 

Excuse my disgusting Photoshop skills. Mining either ramps isn't necessary though it's best done to prevent any attackers jumping over the defender. An 'O' shape round the flag is your only option without using too many mines thanks to the many open spots.

 

Blue Team: 

 

 

 

 

The Blue flag is a total joy to mine! Alternatively you could make an 'O' shape round the flag though this is less secure.

 

Sniping positions: 

 

There are tons of possible sniping positions in Deathtrack, however I've decided to just include the ones I have found to be most effective.

 

Blue team:

 

Position 1:

 

This is a popular position for Shafts and Railguns alike, it is possible to take out a flag-sitter from this position if done in conjunction with a teammate in Position 2, without a teammate it becomes difficult as the sitter is likely to have an Isida close by. Watch out for enemies passing behind you.

 

 

 

 

Position 2:

 

Similar to Position 1 though more exposed, best used to support Position 1.

 

 

 

 

Position 3:

 

All three of these concrete blocks offer excellent cover for defensive snipers as a Repair Kit and Double Armour are situated close by. Be cautious of enemies approaching from the large building to your front.

 

 

 

 

Position 4:

 

A fantastic position for taking out people driving across the bridge or spawn killing on the raised platform area.

 

 

 

 

Red Base: 

 

Position 5: 

 

The best sniping position in the Red Base by far, get there before anyone else takes it! Tends to work best with Shaft as the sniping area is narrow.

 

 

 

 

Position 6:

 

Great for taking out snipers in Position 4, you'll have to out think them though and its not so great otherwise.

 

 

 

 

Position 7:

 

A great position let down by it's exposure on all sides, great for supporting flag stealers and taking out anyone on the bridge.

 

 

 

 

Position 8:

 

Similar to Position 7, great for hitting snipers in Position 3.

 

 

 

 

Gameplay:

 

I've done a fair share of playing in Deathtrack which is partly why I decided to write about it, so let's talk about gameplay experience. I would like to say these are ALL what I've experienced, other people may find it totally different.

 

Deathmatch:

 

Deathmatch in Deathtrack (hahaha see dat rhyme -_-) felt slow, there weren't enough tanks around spawn points and you had to drive a considerable distance to the hotspots where you get some kills, I like my DM matches to be fast paced like Polygon DM with tanks all around you to kill, with its large area; 24 players just doesn't seem enough. DM here doesn't really host much snipers as they tend to get killed pretty quick, overall, I'd rate DM at a 7/10.

 

Team Deathmatch:

 

TDM is the worst mode for Deathtrack, you need to drive right into the enemy base to gain any respectable number of kills and with a maximum of just 12 enemies, it's pretty dang awful! Can't really say much else. I'd give it a 6/10.

 

Capture The Flag:

 

CTF is extremely enjoyable, a great variety of turrets are usable from Firebirds sitting next to the flag to Shafts camping in one of the many sniping spots, attackers usually consist of fast hulls bursting in at a perfect moment of distraction making gameplay quite faster-paced than you would expect. A pretty solid 9/10 here.

 

Control Points:

 

I found CP to be absolutely fantastic, points are spread evenly between both bases and gameplay feels moderately fast with an ever increasing fund resulting in plenty of Gold boxes. Totally my favorite mode and possibly my favorite CP map beside Polygon. A 10/10 from me.

 

Turrets:

 

Firebird

Firebird has limited use in such a large map, it can do well in DM and is great for sitting close to the flag and burning off any attackers. Otherwise, it's best paired with a fast hull and great circling skills.

 

DM - 7/10

TDM - 6/10

CP -  6/10

CTF - 7/10

 

 Firebird's alteration: Compact Tanks

 

Even with its recent nerf; Compact tanks is totally freaking awesome! Obviously it makes Firebird do considerably better in all maps including Deathtrack, whether it justifies 100,000 Crystals is questionable. 

 

 

Freeze

Much the same as Firebird, does slightly better overall due to the freeze effect slowing enemies down enabling you to get closer. Again, best with a fast hull and circling skills.

 

 

DM - 8/10

TDM - 6/10

CP -  6/10

CTF - 8/10

 

 

 

 Freeze's alteration: High Pressure Pump

 

I'd usually refrain from recommending this alteration, it increases the range of max damage by 100% and reduces cone angle by 70% which basically defies Freeze's great tactic of circling multiple hulls. In Deathtrack however this make no difference as you tend to meet enemies one at a time and paired with the 100% range buff; it makes this alteration perfect!

 

 Isida

 

Isida's lack of maximum and minimum damage compared to Freeze/Firebird along with the abundance of snipers in Deathtrack makes the turret work pretty well. In team battles; sit close to a couple of snipers or the flag sitter for maximum effect. As for DM's, try to sneak up behind unsuspecting spawns.

 

 

DM - 6/10

TDM - 7/10

CP -  8/10

CTF - 9/10

 

 Isida's alteration: Broadband Emitters

 

Isida's movements in Deathtrack are usually restricted to its own base making the reduced range a disadvantage, this alteration on par to useless in Deathtrack. I'd avoid it.

 

 Hammer

 

Hammer is rather rare in Deathtrack, with a Double Damage and medium hull it does amazing in DM thanks to all the one-shotabble light hulls, the same goes for TDM if you hang around the enemy spawn points. It does well in CTF if paired with a fast-hull as it can chase flag-stealers making them veer off course with its brilliant impact force. CP use is somewhat limited though still effective in skilled hands.

 

 

DM - 10/10

TDM - 9/10

CP -  7/10

CTF - 8/10

 

 

Hammer's Alteration: Slugger

 

 

 

The Slugger alteration sacrifices turret rotation speed in favor of a tighter pellet spread, wether you should use this alteration will depend on you game play style, it's great for mid-fielding where you will meet plenty of lone tanks to destroy.

 

Twins

 

Twins really doesn't do well in Deathtrack, the projectile speed is too slow and the range isn't enough, if you must use it; pair it with a medium hull and stick around your base doing some defending and mid-fielding.

 

DM - 8/10

TDM - 6/10

CTF - 6/10

CP - 5/10

 

 Twins' alteration: Plasma Core Accelerators

 

This alteration dramatically improves Twins' usability in Deathtrack, it increases projectile speed and minimum damage range by 100% while reducing reload time only by 20% - a small price to pay. If you own it, use it!

 

Ricochet

 

Ricochet does quite well in DMs, with the large number of Thunders 3-shotting light hulls, kill stealing at two-shots becomes a breeze. The bounce also comes in handy due to the many props - just like Thunder's splash damage -. Pair it with a medium hull like Dictator for maximum effect.

 

 

DM - 9/10

TDM - 6/10

CTF - 7/10

CP - 8/10

 

 Ricochet's alteration: Minus-field Stabilization

 

This alteration is a perfect clone of Twins' Plasma core accelerators. The results are slightly different however as Ricochet's success relies on DM kill stealing, which requires quick reloading rather than range or projectile speed. The alteration works best in CP/CTF and whether you use it or not will depend on your game play style.

 

 Smoky

 

With its excellent damage and range-less critical capabilities, Smoky does amazing in Deathtrack, especially in Deathmatches where with the help of a few drugs and a medium hull you will rule the battlefield. Paired with a light hull and a little Isida support it does fantastic in CTF for quick fly-in flag stealing.

 

DM - 10/10

TDM - 8/10

CTF - 9/10

CP - 7/10

 

Smoky's alteration: Assault Ammunition

 

Assault ammunition is a big no-no, it increases impact force and the complete sacrifice of no critical damage, with the recent update giving Smoky unlimited critical range making it a great option in Deathtrack, this, once more is a big no-no.

 

Vulcan

 

Vulcan is extremely rare in Deathtrack and I've only seen a few around so I can't say too much, it does fairly well in CTF if paired with Titan and kept move around its base but DMs are where Vulcan comes into light, standing on the central boulder with mines on the ramp it has access to pretty much all the spawn points, just be ready to use those repair kits. The same goes for CP mode.

 

 

DM - 9/10

TDM - 5/10

CTF - 7/10

CP - 8/10

 

 Vulcan's alteration: Faster Horizontal Tracking

 

Probably the worst name ever but FHT does do something for Vulcan, it reduces the 'lock on'  ability by 50% while increasing rotation speed by 70%, seeing as Deathtrack doesn't contain many different levels this works out an advantage as you'll still have enough 'lock-on' to reach most areas.

 

Thunder

 

Thunder is THE NUMBER ONE turret to use in Deathtrack, its amazing in all modes with its excellent range and damage. Self damage isn't a problem either thanks to Deathtrack's large size and as mentioned numerous times before, splash damage can be used to its full potential in this map.

 

 

DM - 9/10

TDM - 10/10

CTF - 10/10

CP - 10/10

 

Thunder's alteration: Lightweight Ordinance Auto-loader

 

LO(A)L causes maximum and minimum damage to be decreased by 20% while also reducing reload time by 20%, to be honest this is pretty useless as you may as well be using Smoky instead of this.

 

 Railgun

 

Railgun is another turret that does OK in Deathtrack, the trouble is, its overshadowed by Thunder which is a thousand times better, not to say Railgun is bad as it can serve as an excellent flag defender as long as it sits in one of the many sniping spots.

 

 

DM - 7/10

TDM - 7/10

CTF - 8/10

CP - 7/10

 

 Railgun's alteration: Shell Stabilization

 

Shell stabilization levels out Railgun's infamous damage graph so it causes the same damage on every shot, not particularly good as you sometimes need the extra oomph to vaporize another tank. Meh.

 

Shaft

 

Shaft does does pretty dang well especially in the Blue team, sitting in Position 1 it can defend the flag from all directions and earn itself plenty of kills in the process, pair it with a heavy hull and you can expect an impressive K/D. Try to have an Isida by your side. It's not quite so hunky-dory for the Red team or other game modes however.

 

Ratings:

DM - 6/10

TDM - 5/10

CTF - 8/10

CP - 7/10

 

Shaft's alteration: Heavy Capacitors

 

A pretty complex alteration to say the least, horizontal aiming speed in sniping mode and the power-up time get decreased by 30% and increased by 100% respectively while giving a 30% buff in sniping max damage; this really doesn't give much of an advantage or disadvantage so whether you use it will depend on your preference.

 

 

Hulls:

 

 

Wasp

 

Wasp is my favourite hull in Deathtrack, with a speed boost and double armour stealing enemy flags while they're distracted is easy as 123. In DMs Wasp usually gets recked and a medium hulls becomes more effective. Same goes for TDM. Wasp is fantastic in CP too as it can zip around between all the points earning itself plenty of exp, don't expect any decent K/D though. Works great for gold boxes too thanks to its speed and the huge number of dropzones.

 

 

DM - 4/10

TDM - 5/10

CTF - 8/10

CP - 9/10

 

 

Hornet

 

Same as Wasp pretty much though at a slight disadvantage thanks to the decreased speed.

 

DM - 4/10

TDM - 5/10

CTF - 8/10

CP - 8/10

 

Hunter

 

Hunter is the underdog of medium hulls, outclassed by Viking in stability and overshadowed by Dictator for gold hunting it remains as unpopular post-rebalance as it was pre-rebalance. In Deathtrack its just the same, not particularly outstanding at anything except being ordinary. If possible use Viking or Dictator instead. Otherwise use it around your base picking off unwary enemies and for the occasional mid-fielding.

 

DM - 8/10

TDM - 8/10

CTF - 8/10

CP - 6/10

 

 

Viking

 

Paired with Thunder or Smoky, Viking is freaking amazing! It has the highest top speed of all hulls making it effective for attacking, mid-fielding and defending, a fabulous all-round hull. Amazing in DMs and TDMs when paired with Hammer and double power supplies though overshadowed by Wasp for CP. Watch out for the post-rebalance drift syndrome.

 

DM - 10/10

TDM - 10/10

CTF - 10/10

CP - 8/10

 

Dictator

 

Dictator has the fastest acceleration of any medium hull but, remember the intro? I said Deathtrack is the bane of gold hunters, Dictator is usually used for gold hunting and its lack of speed is a huge disaster for this in Deathtrack. Gold hunting aside; with Thunder it works almost as well as Viking and the extra height is a great advantage for reaching all the platforms spread around the map.

 

DM - 9/10

TDM - 9/10

CTF - 9/10

CP - 7/10

 

Titan

 

Titan performs disappointingly in team battles, its movements are heavily restricted to sniping and defense so its best paired with Vulcan or Shaft. Works fantastic in DM with Vulcan as mentioned earlier.

 

DM - 9/10

TDM - 4/10

CTF - 8/10

CP - 5/10

 

Mammoth

 

Far too slow for anything, sorry Mammoth but you take too long even to get to your sniping spot or to sit on the flag, unless you're playing Godmode_ON ignore this hull entirely.

 

DM - 6/10

TDM - 1/10

CTF - 6/10

CP - 3/10

 

Paints:

 

After the module update the only purpose paints serve are; looking good and camouflage. So I'm going to split this section in those respective categories. 

 

Looks:

 

Amber: €13.99

Lime: €13.99

Neuron: €13.99

Harlequin: 40,000 

Disco: 100,000 

 

Camouflage:

 

Deathtrack is a map full of concrete and grey tones making any of the following paints serve as decent camouflage, if the map is in winter mode then obviously White paint is the best cover.

Liquid Metal: €7.99 

Metallic: 100 

Carbon: 30,000 

Winter: 7,000 

Reporter: (Unobtainable) by Lux so far

 

Modules:

 

 

 

 

 

You're mainly going to encounter; Thunders, Railguns, and Shafts. Occasionally there will be short ranged turrets. 

 

Griffon series:

 

The Griffon series of modules provides protection against all the most popular turrets in Deathtrack (Thunder, Railgun, and Shaft). With variations depending on your experience.

 

 

     Griffon T-A

 

     Griffon T-D

 

     Griffon T-B

 

 

Kodiak series:

 

This series is best used in DM where a few short ranged turrets are likely.

 

     Kodiak T-H

 

     Kodiak Т-В

 

     Kodiak Т-А

 

Effective Combinations:

 

Thunder/Viking

+ 

Not only does this combo look fabulous it also provides the most flexibility in Deathtrack, Viking being the fastest of all medium hulls coupled with Thunder's adequate range and stellar splash damage makes this combo totally rule in team battles. Attacking, defending or mid-fielding, in this combo it's all a breeze! Also does well in DM though -perhaps obviously- not as well as Smoky/Viking.

 

DM - 8/10

TDM - 10/10

CTF - 10/10

CP - 9/10

 

Smoky/Viking

 

 + 

 

An absolute classic here, this is such an effective and popular combo that its sold as a kit in three modifications (Striker, Northerner and Paladin). In Deathtrack it works best for DMs instead of Thunder due to the faster reload time and the 'kill steal' nature of deathmatches. Not to say its bad for team battles, far from it, serving as an excellent defense supporter and mid-fielder. If it wasn't for Thunder's splash damage, this would be king combo in Deathtrack.

 

DM - 10/10

TDM - 8/10

CTF - 9/10

CP - 8/10

 

Shaft/Titan

 

 + 

 

This combo; if standing in one of the aforementioned 'effective sniping positions' can really be a killer, try to enrol a friendly Isida to stay by your side in the event that you get shot by enemy snipers. Be sure to watch out for Firebirds sneaking up behind you. Doesn't work at all well in TDM or DM thanks to the lack of players around you and the lack of healing Isidas. 

 

DM - 3/10

TDM - 5/10

CTF - 9/10

CP - 8/10

 

 

Gold Boxes:

 

Remember back in the intro I said Deathtrack is the 'bane of gold hunters'? Well, you might have thought I used that to craft a catchy intro. But no, Deathtrack really is a pain to catch golds in simply because there is no resource which shows you the drop zones. You might think, well, what about 's Gold Box drop locations topic? Nope, for some reason Deathtrack just isn't there, I've even looked on the Russian forum.

 

So really, the only realistic chance you have of getting a Gold box is if you spot the drop zone early, don't hang around it too obviously otherwise others might see and you'll have hordes of tanks coming over. 

 

Wasp is the best hull for Gold boxes in Deathtrack simply due to its speed.

 

 

 

 

^The only Gold I've ever caught in Deathtrack, it was behind the large building in the corner.

 

Races:

 

Aha! You weren't expecting this were you? Of course I must include a piece on the racing side of Deathtrack, thats probably what it was designed for in the the first place. So what is the route and how can you take part in a Deathtrack race?

 

Route:

 

 

 

 

^This is the defined start line for Deathtrack races.

 

 

^The most common route for racing, either direction is acceptable.

 

I wanna race!

 

If you want to race in Deathtrack you have Three options:

 

Race amongst friends

 

This is pretty obvious, invite your friends to a private battle and race with them, the rules are made by you and you must decide whether:

• Drugs are allowed.
• Shooting/killing is allowed.
• Which turrets are permitted.
• Which hulls are permitted.
• Are different modifications allowed.
• Do you need a 'safety car' to show the route.
• How the tanks will be arranged on the starting grid.

Perhaps I've missed some but hopefully not!

 

Take part in official events

 

The Tanki online administration often hold their own official events, one of those is 'Tanki Race 2' which involved Hunter/Twins'

racing around Deathtrack following an official Wasp 'safety car'. A link to the event is be posted on Facebook and if you're quick enough you can get in pretty easily. Be sure to read the General event rules before taking part.

 

Join a racing club

 

You can find some clubs which regularly hold racing events in Deathtrack, currently most are inactive though be sure to keep an eye on the specialist clubs forum.

 

With that I end this extremely long and hopefully detailed guide on Deathtrack, I hope you enjoyed reading it and that it inspires you to play more often in this map! Don't forget to leave your feedback down below!

 

That is all!

See YOU in battle!

 

 

If you spot any mistakes in spelling, grammar, formatting inconsistencies or otherwise please let me know.  ENTRY MAY BE EDITED WITHIN CONTEST DEADLINE!

 

 Hammer's Alteration: Slugger

 

 

 

The Slugger alteration sacrifices turret rotation speed in favor of a tighter pellet spread, wether you should use this alteration will depend on you game play style, it's great for mid-fielding where you will meet plenty of lone tanks to destroy.

 

 

dude, the 'wether' should be 'whether', small typo there...

[Ninja 10,468]

 Hammer's Alteration: Slugger

 

 

 

The Slugger alteration sacrifices turret rotation speed in favor of a tighter pellet spread, wether you should use this alteration will depend on you game play style, it's great for mid-fielding where you will meet plenty of lone tanks to destroy.

 

 

dude, the 'wether' should be 'whether', small typo there...

Thanks bro, I corrected it. 

 

 

 

[lordtanker9000 14]

no problem, happy to help

[lordtanker9000 14]

but... dang. castrated ram? seriously?

[Ninja 10,468]

but... dang. castrated ram? seriously?

ikr, no idea why it means that!

[lordtanker9000 14]

ikr, no idea why it means that!

well... a ram is an animal.... and castration is ... removing the place where the sperms are made in a male...

[Ninja 10,468]

well... a ram is an animal.... and castration is ... removing the place where the sperms are made in a male...

I know what it is, but why a word like that means that is a mystery.

[lordtanker9000 14]

I know what it is, but why a word like that means that is a mystery.

exactly. who would make up a word for that?

[marc.jp_44 20,837]

Hello and welcome, fellow tankers! In this article, I will inform you about the basics of holding and succeeding in a Factory Save The Gold. For those of you who don't know, the 'Save the Gold' format is a game mode revolving around defenders trying to protect a Gold Box and attackers trying to catch the Gold Box.

Rules:
Playing in the spirit of the game, there are a few general rules relying on honesty. Some of these rules are that the attackers MUST only use Hornet or Wasp and can't use Double Damages. The general idea of the game is to keep the Gold(s) saved for as long as possible, so the attackers shouldn't have too much of an advantage over the defenders. In theory, the defenders aren't supposed to die once placing mines but tactical play from the attackers can result in a few defender deaths, flips or self-destructs due to the anti-hack system. It is recommended that the battle be held in this format:

 

 

Gold Box drop zones:
Factory has a total of 10 drop zones - 6 on the top level and 4 on the bottom. Though, I must include that if the Gold drops on the bottom level, I highly encourage you not to save it, as it is too easy to get. If the Gold drops on the top level, it is worth saving and often quite fun. The picture below outlines the drop zones worth saving:

Defending:
Defending in Factory is relatively easy. Due to being a whole level higher than where the attackers spawn, they have to ultimately climb up a ramp. This is why having impact turrets are crucial. In my opinion, the best turrets of choice are Vulcan, Thunder and Smoky for this map. They are best mounted on a Dictator, Titan or Mammoth. Two to three Isidas are recommended, to constantly heal the defenders. The lead Vulcan should have a constant Isida on him and the Vulcan should constantly shoot. Titans and Mammoths are excellent for defending on the two large ramps on either end of the top floor. A Mammoth or Titan with Smoky is perfect to prevent the attackers from reaching the top floor. Flipping people in this map is very easy with Vulcan, Thunder or Smoky. Shaft or Railguns are not good choices due to their lengthy reloads. A Dictator should sit in the Gold using the glitch. Dictator is the best to be in the Gold because of its height - which prevents attackers from taking the Gold even if they can get on top of the Dictator. A couple of Hammers are useful for finishing off the attackers once they come near the Gold. All defenders should be protected by mines and the person using the glitch should place mines inside the Gold or in the edges of the Gold (these come in handy when people get really close to the Gold but blow up centimetres away. Defenders using Smoky must be tactical, instead of mindless. Instead of constantly shooting at targets, they should wait for the perfect time, so that they can flip attackers. The Thunders and Vulcans simply have to target the attackers once they spawn. They need to deal as much damage to the attackers as possible, allowing for the Hammers and Smokies to finish them off. These are some good mining techniques to use for defending:

 

 

 

 
Attacking:
Attacking in Factory is rather complex. Since you have to climb a whole level to get onto the main platform, you're going to meet a lot of obstacles on the trek up. Firstly, like in any STG, start off with your stronger light hull (preferably Hornet) with Spider module and take out as many mines as initially possible. Once most mines are taken out, change to Wasp and choose a module according to the defenders' turrets. The best turrets would be anything with knockback - Thunder, Hammer or even Ricochet make an excellent choice. Attempt to kill defenders if possible. A key technique is using mines to your advantage. For example, you could run off a ramp and use the corner mine to propel you towards the main platform and towards the Gold. The best way to get the Gold is to meet the defender side on and shoot them - this way, they have no chance of pushing back at you (because hulls can't advance sideways) and you should be able to comfortably get the Gold. Through personal experience, I have enjoyed playing with Hornet and Hammer and have found it relatively successful. You need to persevere, through the stressful moments to be able to take the Gold. It's among the harder maps to attack in, especially if there are lots of Smokies and Vulcans, which can troll really hard on this map. Parkouring is difficult but possible in this map, with the right equipment but you must know how to properly pull it off.

In conclusion, Factory is a brilliant but difficult map to attack in. It requires quite a bit of time to lay all the mines and fully prepare but is one of the most fun maps to do STG's in. Only the most persevering attackers will be able to take the Gold. Factory has previously been home to a brilliant Video of the Week entry by F.O.R.K. I was actually in the STG, when F.O.R.K pulled off the catches. His video demonstrates an ideal tactic to take the Gold. Below are some screenshots of me defending in a Factory STG with Dictator and Vulcan. As you can see from the photos, high DL's can be achieved with the help of a committed Isida, constant finger on the '3' button and a few handy Repair Kits. If you observe carefully, you could accurately say that most Factory STG's take quite a long time and defenders often end up with high DL's and great scores and attackers end up the exact reverse of that.
 
Match Results:

 

 

Edited December 24, 2016 by Marc

[lordtanker9000 14]

nice marc, but it's taking up space, please put the whole thing in spoilers, ok? :lol:

[marc.jp_44 20,837]

Couldn't figure out how to lol. There were like 2000000000 ['spoiler']'s and ['/spoiler']'s. :lol:

 

EDIT: nvm, fixed. :3

Edited December 24, 2016 by Marc

[lordtanker9000 14]

lol yeah but u could put the whole article in spoiler then put spoilers for the articles itself

[lordtanker9000 14]

i will publish this in AWC when this contest ends. in the meantime, enjoy! :)

Welcome, and thank you for taking off time to read my guide on Atra! This guide will cover just about everything there is to, from battle formations to mining spots… so let’s read on!

 

Statistics

Length: 27 props (135 meters)

 

Width: 14 props (70 meters)

 

Surface area: 378 props (9450 m²)

 

Unlock rank: Warrant 1

 

Player limit: 10, 5v5

 

Modes: CTF, DM, TDM, CP

 

Overall stats

Size: 2/5 – one of the smaller maps

Features/graphics: 1/5 – a bit bland, not much interesting stuff

Parkour: 1/5 – meh. Not the map for parkourists, there’s nothing the conquer

Gameplay: 4/5 – an awesome map for any playing style

Navigation: 4/5 – quite easy to move around, just don’t fall off

Versatility: 5/5 – one of the most versatile maps. Any combo can excel here

 

A little history

Atra first appeared in Tanki on October 1, 2010. It was created by JIEHb, and unlike other mapmakers like DukePlatinum, this was his only map.

Atra was not always like the one we see now. There were previously two versions of Atra – Atra 1 and Atra 2. Atra 1 had only the upper ramps and two long pipes replacing the underpass of current-day Atra, while Atra 2 was more similar, but the notable differences are the straight grass route replaced by the underpass, only two ramps leading up to the centre and the absence of any fences. There was also a “secret” (alright to be honest it’s in broad daylight) room under one of the ramps. see below for the pictures, Atra 1 is on the left and Atra 2 the right.

These two maps were eventually merged together and the current Atra was born.

       

 

Overview

Atra is noticeably different from other maps. For one, it is inversely symmetrical, that is, if you chopped the map along the centre and rotated one piece 90 degrees you would get two identical pieces.

It is very common at the m0 and early m1 ranks, almost as popular as silence at warrant ranks, but after that it loses popularity and then disappears altogether, which I felt was a huge pity, since it offers such a dynamic gameplay because of the lack of hiding spots and the small size.

The most common mode here is CTF, and no wonder. Two bases connected by an almost straight route leading right towards each other? There’s a plethora of chances and ways to get the flag.

It can be really fun to play with in the normal modes, but I don’t suggest parkour here, unless doing barrel rolls in the sky is counted.

 

Map analysis

Blue base: where the blue team spawns

Red base: where the red team spawns

Upper ramps: the ramps that are the only means of accessing the centre, I have divided them into ramps 1,2,3 and 4

Centre: the highest point on the map, you can gain a 360 degree view here. It is also where most of the action takes place

Underpass: leads from blue base straight to red base and vice versa, making it a good escape route if you have the flag

 

CTF mode

At last, we move on the first mode available in Atra, CTF! It is the most commonly played mode, so it has the priority here. In CTF there are only 3 roles you can play: attack, defend and support. Briefly putting it…

Attack: focus on getting the flag

Defend: protecting your own flag and teammates

Support: shoot people randomly and assist in attack or defend when necessary

 

Defenders

For spots to camp at, I suggest the behind the two fences at the very back of the bases, you can peek through the hole when shooting and stay hidden the rest of the time. This place is also the most well-protected location on the map since there are only two exposed sides – the left and right, and even it will be very hard for the opponents to reach those sides.

 

Your role

-        To prevent any opponents from harming your teammates by shooting them down

-        To prevent opponents from reaching the flag

-        To kill any opponents who has taken the flag

-        To return the flag if necessary

 

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Shaft

Most of you probably expected this, the king of heavy hulls and the king of damage together into one tank. Although Shaft is generally for the large maps, it works here too. Speed wouldn’t be a problem since you won’t be moving about much, so it’s safe to neglect speed here.

One small tip: when aiming with Shaft, keep the target in view but hide the laser, i.e. if shooting at someone at opponent base, keep him in view but hide the laser behind the fence until fully charged, since if the opponent sees the laser he’ll definitely not remain a sitting duck.

 

2.      Mammoth-Freeze

Alas, the underrated Mammy-Freeze. This is often considered the worst combo, but I beg to differ. In fact, it works well – incredibly well – in Atra when defending.

When the enemy comes, just pop out of the shelter of the fence and blast him with Freeze, slowing him down. After that, you can finish him off at your leisure. The only problem might be the opponent running away before you can get him, but this can be solved if you pop out slightly before he gets the flag instead of when he has already gotten it. You can also buy the “high pressure pump” modification so that range can increase.

 

3.      Viking-Thunder

Another great combo. Viking isn’t the heaviest of hulls, but the little extra speed could help A LOT in flag returning after you kill the opponent, or another person can just snatch the flag.

Thunder is a good choice here because of the considerably high damage but quick reload. The only problem is the self-damage, but then, Normally the flag-stealer is not going to come towards you after he snatches the flag. Even if he  does, put a mine, blam.

 

4.      Dictator-Vulcan

I chose Dictator here specially because of the high mount it has, which combined with the massive auto-aiming range of Vulcan allows the turret to reach the centre base even when on the base platform.

There are a few disadvantages though. Because of the high mount, Vulcan will not do much if shooting from the centre portion. Dictator is also considerably big allowing it to be shot more easily. Still, it can tank quite a few shots before failing.

 

5.      Hornet-Firebird

Yeah, yeah, I know. Hornet’s armour totally sucks, why’d you still choose it? Well, the simple answer: more mobility. The speed is much needed when returning the flag, since, like I said for the Viking thunder part, you don’t want someone snatching the flag first before you can return it you also don’t want your own teammate returning the flag and getting the glory.  Plus, the low health can be compensated for by having a handy Isida with you.

Firebird makes it onto the mount since it has the highest DPS in the whole game, one full bar can kill a Mammoth, no questions asked. Especially if you’re dealing with a flag-stealer, since they generally have light hulls. Blast them with napalm and 2 seconds later they're dead.

 

Protection

Coming to protection, I would suggest a protection from short ranged turrets paint, since your only true nemesis is a Firebird/Freeze/Isida who manages to get close.

I would also suggest protection from Shaft. Unless the opponent is very close/ has pinpoint accuracy when aiming, only a Shaft’s bullet can reach your tank.

 

Attackers

Ok! Now we move on to the section that most of you have been waiting for: Attacking! My suggestion to Defenders is to also read this article, since you would want to know how Attackers… uh… attack.

Two small tips first: it’s a good idea to pick out any snipers first. A Shaft could make a last second kill if not taken care of. Second tip, it’s not a good idea to go along. The gameplay can be very dynamic owing to the small map size, thus opponents would be spawning back at the base with lightning speed. It’s empty at first, you blink your eye… and poof, 3 Firebirds are after you.

 

Your role

1.      To steal the flag and take it to your base

2.      To assist the flag-bearer by healing him (if you are an Isida), shooting down opponents and doing whatever will prevent the flag-bearer from getting harmed

3.      To capture the flag yourself if the initial flag-bearer dies in the process

 

Attack routes (for red teams it is the same)

(The pale blue indicates a path underneath above props)

There are three paths here, which I will divide into paths 1, 2 and 3. Path 1 is the one that leads up upper ramp 1 and down upper ramp 2, path 2 goes through the underpass and path 3 goes up upper ramp 3, across the centre and merges with path 1.

 

Path 1: A decently quick route. The path offers good protection until you go down ramp 2, and also allows you to pick up double armour and speed boost, but if you are a light hull, make sure you don’t fall off the map!

Path 2: The fastest possible route, and almost perpetual protection offered, at least if you are a small tank. You can pick up a DD and DA here, and equip a speed boost and your tank will be unstoppable.

Path 3: It is the slowest route among the 3, but allows you to pick up all the supplies. Recommended to use a Hunter or Viking here.

 

Escape routes (for red team it is the same)

(The pale blue indicates a path underneath above props)

Again, three escape means. Path 1 goes up upper ramp 2, down upper ramp 1, path 2 is the underpass, and path 3 up upper ramp 4 and down upper ramp 3.

 

Path 1: The attack route, just reversed. It’s good for light hulls since it’s just a short journey, and you can also pick up a repair box here so no worries up dying halfway (unless, of course, your hand slips and you fall into the void…)

Path 2: Also an attack route, and also the best escape route in my opinion. Not much to say here, refer to path 2 of the attack routes

Path 3: It is pretty similar to path 1, with a few exceptions. It is slightly more sheltered because there is a total of 3 fences along the route, compared to 1 for path 1. You can also pick up the RB quicker, so less danger of dying.

 

Suggested equipment

1.      Wasp-Firebird

Here, the Firebird is handy for blasting all the enemies as you reach the base and run off with the flag. Due to the wasp’s low armour, make sure you are flanked or have an Isida with you.

A very important note: this combo is only for the very skilled at driving. If you are the type that’s used to Mammoths, don’t use this combo, seriously. Fastest hull in the game + 90 degrees sudden route turns + possible speed boost + driving backwards in order to shoot at enemies = 99.99% chance off falling off the map. 

 

2.      Viking-Twins

Viking has moderate speed but armour good enough to last you at least halfway, so it makes it into the suggested equipment. Still, this is one versatile hull, so you’ll probably see it a lot.

Twins is the best possible choice here. It’s deadly up close, and has insane knockback so you might possibly knock off the aim of a few opponents. It is also better than Fire/Freeze/Isida in the sense that it is medium-ranged, thus you can still injure opponents while running for your life.

 

3.      Hornet-Isida

A great combo for CTF, especially when you are stealing the flag. Isida’s self-heal really helps out here, even if it got nerfed in the previous updates.

Once again, due to the low health that hornet has, it’s a good idea to have repair box on standby, or you can make friends with another Isida. The underpass is also the best escape route here because of the shelter and also the quick escape it provides.

 

4.      Dictator-Railgun

Ah, the nostalgia. This combo was once feared as the deadliest of combos, and is still popular now. This beauty can slice, multi-kill, tank shots, auto-aim, distract, knock off shots and basically be the epitome of awesomeness. In fact, this combo is also good as a flank or meat shield, which could come in handy.

Dictator’s unique mount helps if you are escaping through the underpass, and also allows you to shoot over the fences through the little hole. If you pick up a double damage and add in a repair box, you’re invincible, no questions asked.

The only pesky people here are the short-rangers, but since they are normally mounted on a light hull, a mine will do the trick.

 

5.      Hunter-Hammer

(A little backstory, skip this part if you are in a hurry) a tank I remember very well from a player I once met, by the name of ‘Only_Hunter_Hammer’, and true enough, that was his main combo. He came in about 5 minutes into the match, and… man. He trashed my team, totally trashed it with more than 10 flag captures, and he wasn’t even a drugger. This is perhaps how this combo made it into the list.

Hammer is devastating up close, obviously, especially with the Slugger modification, though it’s not recommended to use the mod here as the splash could be useful if the opponents are congregated at the base. Any Wasps or Hornets can be easily taken care of, and for the heavier hulls… Hunter should be able to hold on long enough.

 

Attack formations

Here I add a few attack formations that are deathly effective if carried out correctly. Unfortunately, the real difficult part wouldn’t be the execution of the formation but rather getting your teammates to listen to you…

 

Formation 1: x1 Wasp-Firebird + x1 Wasp-Isida + x2 Viking-Railgun

The wasp- firebird goes to the base, preferably from the upper ramps, and takes the flag, while the Isida heals the firebird. The Vikings can stay at the fences at the centre and shoot off any nuisances. This is one destructive pair, considering that two railguns can take out all but the heaviest hulls, and if JUST ONE OF THEM JUST SO HAPPEN TO BE DRUGGING… nothing can survive.

 

Formation 2: Mammoth-Firebird + (hidden in Mammoth) Hornet-Isida

Since you have titanic armour, your only nemesis is basically those short range turrets, so a Firebird against Firebird would be the best deal here.

When the mammoth dies or needs help, the hornet can move out and take the flag to complete the mission, or heal the Mammoth. The main advantage of this combo is that it only requires two people, but can potentially be one of the most effective attack formations out there.

 

Formation 3: x2 Mammoth-Twins + x1 Hunter-Hammer

A slightly more complex strategy here; the Mammoths will first attack from two sides, while the Hunter sneaks in through the underpass and takes the flag unnoticed (hopefully). The Mammoths can distract the rest of the opponents long enough to prevent the Hunter from dying until the flag is successfully captured. They can also block anyone who goes after the hunter – with Mammoth’s mammoth size it’s not hard (pun intended)

 

Support

Finally we come to support, my personal playing style! It is also in my opinion the most fun – you spent the battle shooting down people and making them rage.

Your role

1.      To shoot down opponents in your vicinity -  as much as you please

2.      To assist in the defence or attack if necessary

There, simple right? To put it in other words, you’re something like a midfielder, the less important but most versatile position.

 

Good camping locations

One note: Please read this part if you generally stay in one place while supporting, if you are more of a hit-and-runner, just skip it.

(the grey location is on the underpass, behind the pipe)

 

Location 1: a good spot – you can reach most of the map from here, all but two of the upper ramps, ramp 2 and 4. This position is mostly defence-based, considering it is right at the base, but with a long range weapon you can shoot at the enemy base too.

Location 2: although minimal shielding is provided, this is easily the best spot. From here you can have a view of the whole map, safe a section of the underpass. It is suggested to stay behind the fence until you shoot; if you can shoot the enemy, it means they can too.

Location 3: this is a good location if you have dictator to shoot over the fences. Unfortunately with flat hulls this place will only work on defence, but you can deter enemies from escaping with the flag at this position.

Location 4: this location is almost the same as 2, so not much to say here. Basically, it offers more protection compared to 2, but compromises a bit of the map view.

 

Suggested equipment

1.      Hornet-Firebird

This one is strictly for the runner, the light hull ensures that. If you are talking about strategy, I would suggest ridding any stray opponents first, then running to the enemy base like a kamikaze and blast everyone. Get a double damage and you’ll rack up some massive kills, for the small price of a few deaths.

One very important note: unless you are in the process of killing someone, KEEP MOVING. Hornet is a considerably fragile hull, second only to Wasp. You stay still, you die. Simple.

 

2.      Viking-Thunder

Aha! Now we talk business; the versatile Viking-Thunder, and after all, being a supporter is all about being versatile, right?

This tank is works best at midfield, meaning, around spots 2 and 4. This tank also has the potential to rack up some amazing kills if paired with a double damage, especially with the splash damage that could earn you multi-kills.

 

3.      Titan-Smoky

An ugly combo at the very least, but it’s a beast. Who cares if you’re ugly when you are dominating the map and bringing glory to your team?

I would suggest using this combo more on the defence side, so spot 1 would be the best place for you, but you could always go to the other spots if you find they work more for you. It’s not recommended to be focused on supporting the attack, or Titan’s heavy hull would really be wasted.

 

4.      Viking-Vulcan

And… again Viking comes back thanks to its supreme versatility. This combo is suited for the underpass/spot 4 the most. Pop out of shelter, drill someone down and then go back to safety. If you can pop out at the exact right moments, you’ll be virtually untouchable.

Go for the lighter hulls, though, like Wasp, Hornet and Hunter, or you’ll spend ages drilling down a mammoth and by the time you finish someone’s taken care of you.

 

DM and TDM mode

Deathmatch. The second-most commonly played mode in Atra, the love of every crystal-hoarder, and the first most commonly played overall with a 46% of battles made being DM. Team Deathmatch, not as popular as his brother game mode but still fun nonetheless.

Both of these game modes can actually also be very fun to play in, especially being a pro and making everyone rage ;) thus far, the Atra I’ve known has unfailingly been divided into two types of players, as I like to call them: campers and runners, or in other words the heavy and light hulls.

This section was originally fully Deathmatch, but I realised that many things in TDM were similar thus I merged the two sections together.

 

Campers

Generally here is the gameplay for you: you stay at one place, moving only when necessary, and snipe off people in the vicinity one-by-one. The most effective combo here would be a heavy hull and a medium-range, fast reload turret, more on that in the suggested equipment section. The only weakness is the short-rangers (again!) but (again!) mining comes in handy.

 

Good camping locations

Refer to the “good camping locations” section in support, CTF. You’ll find that most of what is written there also applies to Deathmatch, since CTF support is just shooting down everybody which is the same logic in DM. Just watch out for all sides.

 

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Vulcan

A good combo for any camper, in any map, except for the smallest of them, such as duel. Provided your range of view is very wide, once you have picked out an unfortunate victim, they have no escape.

In fact, this is also a smart combo. Get the hull with the most darned insane armour in the whole game, and put on it a turret with the most darned fastest reload in the whole game, and you get this one awesome combo. The overheating is no problem, Mammoth’s armour has taken care of that.

 

2.      Dictator-Ricochet

Here I would suggest spots 1 and 3, here 2 is not a good choice as Dictator’s mount prevents you from reaching the bases, but it helps when you are at one of the bases and want to hit someone in the centre without depending on auto-aiming.

Another advantage of using this combo is that you don’t need to worry about any short-rangers. Anyone stupid enough to actually go up to a Ricochet will find themselves getting blown sky-high.

 

3.      Titan-Smoky

Did I say that this was good in CTF? Well, lemme tell you something: this combo is downright legendary in Deathmatch. The build is absolutely flawless – amazing armour, rapid fire rate, high damage, especially at the higher ranks, critical hits, good range, huge impact force – what a camper needs, this thing has it

In fact, if you manage to get your hands on a DD box or decide to become a drugger, you’ll easily blast everyone into oblivion, no doubt about that.

 

4.      Viking-Vulcan

Once you start playing with this, you’ll realise the strategy is actually very similar to Mammy-Vulcan. The only major difference is that you’ll be able to move around more, so you should. Kill a few people and change a location, repeat. If you don’t move, and you are also the dominator of the map, people are going to target you.

I dunno why people don’t target you that much if you move though.

 

Runners

Now we bring in the next chapter in the DM series: Runners. If you don’t know what that means, it’s basically people who use the hit-and run tactic; Find a victim, rush up to him, kill him and repeat again. This strategy can be very effective if you are able to do one thing; stay out of fire. Always be subtle, hiding behind ramps but staying on the move.

 

Running paths

Route 1: This is by far the safest path, since it goes through the underpass. The main idea is to kill any campers at one base, when people start noticing you, move on through the underpass to the other base.

Route 2: This is potentially the most rewarding route, covering almost the entire map. Unfortunately this is also the most dangerous, especially as you cross the centre. Do not stray at the top for too long.

Route 3: As you can see, this path goes one big circle around the map, and is very similar to path 2. It is slightly safer, though, since you won’t be crossing the centre.

 

Of course, by recommending these paths it does not mean you should follow these routes exactly. If there is an easy kill or a supply box close to you, by all means go off your path and get it. You’re not a synchronised robot.

 

Suggested equipment

1.      Hornet-Firebird

A combo seen by many of you, Hornet paired with Firebird is quite a versatile combo in small maps. Hornet’s speed and Firebird’s high damage makes this a combo not to be underestimated. Don’t go face to face with other tanks though. Make sure you have the element of surprise.

 

2.      Hunter-Twins

Hunter is generally classified a medium hull, but since twins is a medium range weapon, there’s less need to move around, thus you can invest a bit more in armour and neglect a bit of speed.

Try to get as close as possible, though, since Twin’s damage will decrease over distance, it won’t have much of an effect from far-range.

 

3.      Wasp-Freeze

This combo is best against the slow turret turners, like Railgun or Vulcan (when shooting). Adding on with the Freeze, it’ll be very easy to stay out of the line of fire by running circles around the opponent. Since Wasp is so fragile, I would suggest path 1, which provides the most protection.

 

4.      Hunter-Hammer

H-H is back (you might remember it from the CTF attackers section)! Decent speed and armour, and a high damage turret. I would recommend you going for the slugger modification to deal more damage up close. The spread isn’t very useful in a typical Atra DM match.

 

5.      Hornet-Ricochet

In case you are allergic to Hornet-Firebird for some reason, use this combo. It can whiz around the map and blow everyone up with Rico’s bullets (they’re awesome up-close) all the while having a swag look.

 

CP mode

At last we come to the last game mode – Control Points! Although they are not as common as DM or CTF, it is nevertheless fun to play in, and offers an equally dynamic gameplay. After all, for such a small map, it contains an amazing 5 CP’s! So… here we go guys!

 

Taking points

Here is the general strategy: at the start, go directly for points 2 or 4 depending on your team side. These are the closest to the bases and also the most protected, thus should be the easiest to capture. Afterwards focus on point 1,3 and 5 at the top, and just leave one person to hold point 2/4.

If a point is taken by the other team, never go along. Chances are you’ll get killed before you can take the point or even neutralize it. Taking a friendly buddy along can help you capture the point faster and also get yourself flanked.

Your role

1.      To capture a point that is neutral

2.      To neutralize a point that is controlled by the opponent team

3.      To assist any teammate in capturing a point by capturing it with him or killing opponents that threaten his safety

 

A closer look at the points

Point 1/5: The generally neutral point, but point 1 would normally be captured by the blue team and 5 vice versa, as the fences offer some protection.

Point 2/4: The closest points to the base. Not much battling happens here, since it is so close to the base and also very sheltered. Juts one tank should be able to take and hold the point.

Point 3: Where the heat of the battle takes place, and often the pint that determines the winning team of a battle as this is the centremost thus the most equal poin on the map, meaning that its location is not advantageous to any of the teams. When you are capturing the point, DO NOT stay right on top of the point; everyone will be able to see you.

 

Suggested equipment

Take note that the equipment specified here is mainly for capturing the point, not holding it as well. Once you capture a point, retreat and capture other points. Leave the captured points to the defenders.

1.      Hunter-Ricochet

A mix of a stable high and decently high-damaged turret results in this combo. It might not be able to hold if a Mammoth-Firebird comes chugging along, but it should ward off the majority of opponents long enough to get the point.

 

2.      Viking-Smoky

Compared to the previous combo, I traded off a bit of Hunter’s speed for Viking’s noticeably higher armour, arguably a wise decision. You may be less mobile thus less efficient, but you have a higher chance of capturing the point you are concentrated on.

Smoky can also deal quite a bit of damage, especially at closer range and small maps such as Atra.

 

3.      Hornet-Vulcan

Believe me, this combo works, and is also versatile since you can quickly move from one point to another and flank others along the way if another of your teammates are capturing a point. you should get an Isida to heal you as you go, though.

The Vulcan go also be replaced with the newest turret, Striker. Atra is a small map thus the low movement speed of the projectiles are not really a problem. Striker in sniping mode is devastating, so you probably don’t need to worry about the short-rangers.

 

4.      Hunter-Hammer

No, I am not bias to this combo, it is quite effective. Hammer can shoot at mid-range as well as short range, so you can deal with all but the far-rangers while capturing a point. As for the snipers… stay away from them,  and pray to Buddha that he will prevent any of the Railguns from spotting you.

 

5.      Titan-Twins

The oddball here, considering it is the only heavy hull you’ll find on the list, but that makes it all the more an all-rounder as you can both capture and hold a point effectively. Handy for going for points 2 and 4, but not good if you find that the points alliances keep changing from blue to red to blue. In that case, go with combo 3.

 

Defending

As you read this article, you’ll realise that CP defending is not really different from CTF defending. It’s just that you have to defend a different thing, namely a point instead of a flag, so (unfortunately or fortunately depending on your POV) I will not make this part too long.

Your role

1.      To ensure that no opponents neutralize or capture a point your team is controlling

2.      To shoot and kill an opponent who is harming a teammate who is capturing a point

3.      To notify the designated people of any neutral points available for capture, or any points controlled by the opponent team that has been left alone.

 

Defending spots (for red base it is reversed)

The spots can vary according to the point that you are defending, but here I show some of the more general and versatile ones.

 

Spot 1: A really good spot, as is the same for CTF. You have full view of spots 1 and 3, and partial view of spot 2. You’ll also be able to kill any opponents when they spawn at the base. They might get mad and swear vengeance on you, though.

Spot 2: Not very different from spot 1, but it sacrifices a bit of safety for more view of spot 2 and 5. Handy if you are the one assigned to protect spot 2. I would suggest you use dictator so that you can fire at the centre area too.

Spot 3: A relatively exposed place, so you should put on a mammoth before venturing here. It generally protects spot 1, but you’ll have partial view of spots 2, 3 and 5 too.

Spot 4: This spot is simply spot 3, with the statistics reversed; the main point being protected becomes 5 instead of 1.

Spot 5: A rather exposed spot, but the view is well worth it. You’ll have direct contact with spot 3, thus will be able to protect it more effectively, and will be able to see spots 1 and 5. The enemies will not be able to shoot you on upper ramps 2, 4, the underpass and the enemy base.

 

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Twins

It’s not a bad combo, the proof being its frequent appearance in product kits, for example the Destroyer kit. I also encounter at least one of these fellas in my everyday battles. Why is so good at CP defending is purely due to Twin’s deadly close-range damage.

 

2.      Titan-Ricochet

Also a popular and reasonably impressive combo to behold, Titan-Rico is in fact not all that different from Mammy-Twins, except for the (slightly) increased speed and more compact  bullets, meaning increased damage but longer reload.

Mammy-Twins still beats this combo in terms of looks, though. just my personal opinion

 

3.      Dictator-Thunder

Owing to Thunder’s splash damage, I would not suggest you protect a point by staying right beside it; instead protect it from a distance, i.e spots 1 and 2 in the defending spots section.

Thunder’s splash damage could help out a lot – often I see people crowding around points they control, and thunder can take them out in one fell swoop.

 

4.      Dictator-Hammer

Opposite to the point before this, you would want to get as close to the point as possible, since hammer’s damage decreases noticeably over distance. You’ll also be unable to fire the full power of your Hammer on anyone idiotic enough to come alone. Simply: stay away, no damage on opponent. Get close, punish him thoroughly.

 

Paints

Before we move on, I would like to implore you not to take this section carelessly. Paints can play a vital role in battles, especially for CTF. Taking along the Watercolour paint while stealing a flag won’t exactly increase your chances of going unnoticed.

 

Standing out

This is probably for the minority of you; Standing out with a paint. There could be a few reasons for your choice, be it to serve as a distraction, to look cool or to show off a new paint you spent months to get.

Since the idea here is to contrast so as to stand out, you’ll need a paint that contrasts with light brown and white. If you bothered to check up the colour wheel, you should have a good idea what to expect. If you didn’t, just read on.

 

NANO: Price 350 000 crystals, unlocks at Marshal

A good choice. The light blue would certainly stand out, but it’s more effective on the summer mode. With winter, where everything is white it won’t stand out that much. This paint is certainly expensive, but it is really eye-catching and has no end of coolness. One problem is that it has a relatively high unlock rank.

 

NEURON: Price 13.99 €, unlocks at Recruit

The light and dark colours here really contrasts and it’s also seriously cool. Downside? Costs real money, but that won’t be a problem if you invest in Tanki, right? Plus, it unlocks at recruit rank, so you can buy the paint straight away.

 

MINT: Price 19.99 €, unlocks at Recruit

More expensive compared to neuron, with a 6 € increase in money, but much, much cooler in my opinion. In fact, I think it’s one of the best paints in the game in terms of design, especially the little crisscross patterning. It also has a very balanced shade of green, light enough but not too light that it becomes a bit whitish – the perfect shade!

 

ELECTRA: Price 50 000 crystals, unlocks at Third Lieutenant

What makes this paint really stand out is those jagged bolts of lightning against a dark red background, a contrast not commonly seen. This paint is also a good choice for the money-saver; it is much cheaper compared to the other lieutenant paints.

 

CHERRY: Price 50 000 crystals, unlocks at Brigadier

Another cool paint. And no, unlike what you may think, it doesn’t actually have cherry drawings on the paint, it more of resembles red wavy plates overlapping each other with small gaps in between where natural shadows form. One REALLY big reason to buy this paint, though, is the insane price of 50 000 crystals, considering it is a brigadier-ranked paint.

 

One small note before we move on: Alright, if you are talking about showing off, ignore all the paints above and just get the Golden Star paint. That’s bound to get a few admiring gasps from the other players!

 

Camouflage

Now we have camouflage, i.e. blending in with the surroundings. A few reasons you might want to blend in might be to steal the flag unnoticed or tag along with someone and heal them undercover. As you can see, camouflage is mostly for the sniper or healer, since these two roles would not do good if they stood out.

Anyway, I’m sure all of you are eager to know the 5 paints that have made it into my list, so without further ado, let us welcome them into the spotlight!

 

TUNDRA: Price 5 000 crystals, unlocks at Warrant 4

This was one of the original paints in the game, designed especially for camouflage in certain maps, with a light brown colour and shades of green entwined in it.

This may not be the perfect blend, but it certainly would do the job for a sniper. It’s also a good starting paint before you move on to buy better ones, given its early unlock rank.

 

SANDSTONE: Price 6 000 crystals, unlocks at First Lieutenant

If you have ever seen this paint, you probably would have expected it to make its way into this list. It’s the perfect blend of colours – light brown with tinges of dark brown speckles. It’s a must equip when you are on a daring mission to steal the flag and bring victory to your team. It’s also a pretty awesome paint in terms of design, too.

 

BLACKSMITH: Price 225 000 crystals, unlocks at Major

This paint is actually white, with grey lines running along it, thus it is more suited for winter battles. It’ll probably stand out quite a bit in summer battles. The grey lines could be nuisance when you are trying to creep up onto an enemy, but they’re not that noticeable from far range.

 

HIVE: Price 120 000 crystals, unlocks at Lieutenant General

It’s not as good a camouflage as the other 4, that’s for definite, what with it being a bit more orangey-coloured than light brown, but at least it still allows some blending. I would suggest sandstone over it, though; the former is much cheaper and cooler.

 

ROCK: Price 15 000 crystals, unlocks at Field Marshal

Considering the rank, this is one extremely cheap paint, any field marshal should buy it even if just for the sake of expanding your arsenal of paints.

This paint also offers really good blending; I would say it’s only second to sandstone. It’s also a cool paint to have; it’s a must-use if you want your tank to have that rugged, veteran look.

 

Modules

Modules probably do not play a very obvious role at first, but in the long run, they could save you many rage quits due to getting killed.

Overally, you’re gonna want to have a protection against thunder, smoky, Vulcan, twins and ricochet. You might also consider some close-range protection if you are stealing flags or guarding the base.

 

LGC (legacy) modules

DESERT: price 4500 crystals, unlocks at warrant 2

Smoky 5%

Twins 5%

Ricochet 28%

Hammer 10%

Here they mainly provide protection from ricochet and hammer, and also slightly from smoky and twins as an added bonus. It’s not a bad module considering the price and unlock rank.

 

VORTEX: price 13 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

Thunder 10%

Ricochet 10%

Vulcan 10%

A great choice. Even yet good protection from three turrets, all of which can be found in Atra commonly.

 

FRACTURE: price 30 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 5

Smoky 10%

Railgun 20%

Vulcan 12%

Decent and all-round protection, though I would recommend the vortex LGC module over this. The railgun protection is really insane, though.

 

LOAM: price 6 500 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant colonel

Firebird 36%

Thunder 10%

Freeze 10%

Ricochet 10%

This is recommended for the flag-stealer – the short-medium range protection is covered here, especially the firebird protection. It also comes with a very good price considering it’s one of the rare 4-protection modules.

 

AFRICA: price 400 000 crystals, unlocks at generalissimo

Twins 25%

Thunder 25%

Hammer 20%

Vulcan 30%

Dang. Now we talk business. 4 protections, all turrets covered are commonly found in Atra, average of 25% protection, 38% when fully MU’ed? *shakes head* this one is fantastic. In fact, if you’re talking about mid-range protection, look no further than this, it’s the best possible LGC module for that.

 

Single modules

Price: M0 – 1000 crystals, M1 – 2000 crystals, M2 – 20 000 crystals, M3 – 50 000 crystals

1.      The FOX series

This one is particularly recommended for stealing the flag, since you’ll be going up close with the enemies.

FOX S-A firebird

FOX S-B freeze

FOX S-C Isida

 

2.      The DOLPHIN series

This one is simpler – it’s for all the general weapons in Atra.

DOLPHIN S-A smoky

DOLPHIN S-B thunder

DOLPHIN S-C Vulcan

 

Double modules

Price: M0 – 2500 crystals, M1 – 15 000 crystals, M2 – 50 000 crystals, M3 – 150 000 crystals

1.      The PANTHER series

You can mainly find protection from twins and smoky here, both of which can also be commonly found.

PHANTER D-A twins hammer

PHANTER D-B smoky twins

PHANTER D-C ricochet twins

 

Triple modules

Price: M0 – 50 000 crystals, M1 – 30 000 crystals, M2 – 100 000 crystals, M3 – 250 000 crystals

1.      The SHARK series

The triple modules, at last! Personally, I think they are a bit expensive, but after all they are the ultimate STD modules. You’ll find that the protection in the shark series are mainly from thunder and Vulcan, which is good. I do not recommend shark T-A, though, mainly because of the (almost) redundant rail and shaft.

SHARK T-A railgun shaft Vulcan

SHARK T-B smoky railgun Vulcan

SHARK T-C smoky Isida thunder

SHARK T-D twins thunder Vulcan

SHARK T-E Isida Vulcan thunder

SHARK T-F smoky Vulcan thunder

 

Spectrum modules

Do I need to explain myself here? The spectrum modules, or rare modules as they call it in the wiki, are modules with universal protection against all turrets and mines. If you just happen to have this module, USE IT. DON’T HESITATE. Unfortunately, you’ll have to have the champion, silver, bronze, acid or helper paint to get the spectrum module, so… not likely.

SPECTRUM M-A – 25%

SPECTRUM M-B – 20%

SPECTRUM M-C – 15%

LORD PAINT SPECTRUM MODULE – 50%

DEVIL PAINT SPECTRUM MODULE – 98%

(Ignore the last two, they’re redundant, unless you just happen to be sidlob or Godmode_On. In which case, thank you, I’m very proud that you put aside time to view my humble guide.)

 

Product kits

As anyone should know, product kits offer the nest deals in the Tanki shop, with the total of up to 80% off the price if you bought the items individually, for example, the Osaka kit. It is also handy that the combos in product kits are the often-used and popular one, so there’s probably a kit that suits you. In fact, there are 89 tank kits in the game, 108 if including the discontinued ones.

 

Attacking/Hit-and-Running

HOOLIGAN (HORNET M1/SMOKY M1): price 26 300 crystals, unlocks at master sergeant

CORSAIR (VIKING M1/TWINS M1): price 57 540 crystals, unlocks at sergeant major

STINGER (HORNET M2/ISIDA M2): price 120 825 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

PITBULL (HUNTER M2/HAMMER M2): price 230 600 crystals, unlocks at third lieutenant

PROMETHEUS (HUNTER M3/FIREBIRD M3): price 472 860 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

MAN-O-WAR (HORNET M3/ THUNDER M3): price 367 225 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

 

Defending/Camping

EXTERMINATOR (DICTATOR M1/Vulcan M1): price 58 200 crystals, unlocks at first sergeant

MOUNTAIN (MAMMOTH M2/Vulcan M2): price 169 540 crystals, unlocks at second lieutenant.

ANNIHILIATOR (VIKING M2/ THUNDER M2): price 253 220 crystals, unlocks at first lieutenant

MAESTRO (DICTATOR M3/RICOCHET M3): price 458 340 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

GUARDIAN (TITAN M3/SMOKY M3): price 471 690 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

 

Conclusion

And with the last section, I end this (very) long and detailed guide (please tell me you didn’t fall asleep halfway).  Through this guide, I hope that you have been opened to the full capacity of fun that Atra, this humble map, can hold. It would be a pity if this map were to lay waste at the dark, forgotten parts of Tanki Online...

I hope too that you have enjoyed reading this map guide. Do feel free to comment on it and help me improve!

And that’s it, guys! Have fun, and good luck in your future battling!

 

-lordtanker9000

here is my proof of creation:

Edited December 29, 2016 by lordtanker9000

[Ninja 10,468]

i will publish this in AWC when this contest ends. in the meantime, enjoy! :)

Welcome, and thank you for taking off time to read my guide on Atra! This guide will cover just about everything there is to, from battle formations to mining spots… so let’s read on!

 

Statistics

Length: 27 props

(135 meters)

 

Width: 14 props

(70 meters)

 

Surface area: 378 props

(9450 m²)

 

Unlock rank: Warrant 1

 

Player limit: 10, 5v5

 

Modes: CTF, DM, TDM, CP

 

Overall stats

Size: 2/5 – one of the smaller maps

Features/graphics: 1/5 – a bit bland, not much interesting stuff

Parkour: 1/5 – meh. Not the map for parkourists, there’s nothing the conquer

Gameplay: 4/5 – an awesome map for any playing style

Navigation: 4/5 – quite easy to move around, just don’t fall off

Versatility: 5/5 – one of the most versatile maps. Any combo can excel here

 

A little history

Atra first appeared in Tanki on October 1, 2010. It was created by JIEHb, and unlike other mapmakers like DukePlatinum, this was his only map.

Atra was not always like the one we see now. There were previously two versions of Atra – Atra 1 and Atra 2. Atra 1 had only the upper ramps and two long pipes replacing the underpass of current-day Atra, while Atra 2 was more similar, but the notable differences are the straight grass route replaced by the underpass, only two ramps leading up to the centre and the absence of any fences. There was also a “secret” (alright to be honest it’s in broad daylight) room under one of the ramps. see below for the pictures, Atra 1 is on the left and Atra 2 the right.

These two maps were eventually merged together and the current Atra was born.

       

 

Overview

Atra is noticeably different from other maps. For one, it is inversely symmetrical, that is, if you chopped the map along the centre and rotated one piece 90 degrees you would get two identical pieces.

It is very common at the m0 and early m1 ranks, almost as popular as silence at warrant ranks, but after that it loses popularity and then disappears altogether, which I felt was a huge pity, since it offers such a dynamic gameplay because of the lack of hiding spots and the small size.

The most common mode here is CTF, and no wonder. Two bases connected by an almost straight route leading right towards each other? There’s a plethora of chances and ways to get the flag.

It can be really fun to play with in the normal modes, but I don’t suggest parkour here, unless doing barrel rolls in the sky is counted.

 

Map analysis

Blue base: where the blue team spawns

Red base: where the red team spawns

Upper ramps: the ramps that are the only means of accessing the centre, I have divided them into ramps 1,2,3 and 4

Centre: the highest point on the map, you can gain a 360 degree view here. It is also where most of the action takes place

Underpass: leads from blue base straight to red base and vice versa, making it a good escape route if you have the flag

 

CTF mode

At last, we move on the first mode available in Atra, CTF! It is the most commonly played mode, so it has the priority here. In CTF there are only 3 roles you can play: attack, defend and support. Briefly putting it…

Attack: focus on getting the flag

Defend: protecting your own flag and teammates

Support: shoot people randomly and assist in attack or defend when necessary

Defenders

For spots to camp at, I suggest the behind the two fences at the very back of the bases, you can peek through the hole when shooting and stay hidden the rest of the time. This place is also the most well-protected location on the map since there are only two exposed sides – the left and right, and even it will be very hard for the opponents to reach those sides.

Your role

-        To prevent any opponents from harming your teammates by shooting them down

-        To prevent opponents from reaching the flag

-        To kill any opponents who has taken the flag

-        To return the flag if necessary

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Shaft

Most of you probably expected this, the king of heavy hulls and the king of damage together into one tank. Although shaft is generally for the large maps, it works here too. Speed wouldn’t be a problem since you won’t be moving about much, so it’s safe to neglect speed here.

One small tip: when aiming the shaft, keep the target in view but hide the laser, i.e. if shooting at someone at opponent base, keep him in view but hide the laser behind the fence until fully charged, since if the opponent sees the laser he’ll definitely not remain a sitting duck.

 

2.      Mammoth-Freeze

Alas, the underrated mammy-freeze. This is often considered the worst combo, but I beg to differ. In fact, it works well – incredibly well – in Atra when defending.

When the enemy comes, just pop out of the shelter of the fence and blast him with freeze, slowing him down. After that, you can finish him off at your leisure. Easy-peasy. The only problem might be the opponent running away before you can get him, but this can be solved if you pop out slightly before he gets the flag. You can also buy the “high pressure pump” modification so that range can increase.

 

3.      Viking-Thunder

Another great combo. Viking isn’t the heaviest of hulls, but the little extra speed could help A LOT in flag returning after you kill the opponent, or another person can just snatch the flag.

Thunder is a good choice here because of the considerably high damage but quick reload. The only problem is the self-damage, but then, it’s not like the flag-stealer is going to come towards you after he snatches the flag, so no worries there. Even if he miraculously does, put a mine, blam.

 

4.      Dictator-Vulcan

I chose dictator here specially because of the high mount it has, which combined with the massive auto-aiming range of Vulcan allows the turret to reach the centre base even when on the base platform.

There are a few disadvantages though. Because of the high mount, Vulcan will not do much if shooting from the centre portion. Dictator is also considerably big allowing it to be shot more easily. Still, it can tank quite a few shots before failing.

 

5.      Hornet-Firebird

Yeah, yeah, I know. What the deal, man? Hornet’s armour totally sucks, why’d you still choose it? Well, the simple answer: more mobility. The speed is much needed when returning the flag, since, like I said for the Viking thunder part, you don’t want someone snatching the flag first before you can return it you also don’t want your own teammate returning the flag and getting the glory.  Plus, the low health can be compensated for by having a handy Isida with you.

Firebird makes it onto the mount since it has the highest dps in the whole game, one full bar can kill a mammoth, no questions asked. Especially if you’re dealing with a flag-stealer, since they generally have light hulls. Blast them with napalm and 2 seconds later, boom, their tanks blow up.

 

Protection

Coming to protection, I would suggest a protection from short ranged turrets paint, since your only true nemesis is a firebird/freeze/Isida who manages to get close.

I would also suggest protection from shaft. Unless the opponent is very close/ has pinpoint accuracy when aiming, only a shaft’s bullet can reach your tank.

Attackers

Ok! Now we move on to the section that most of you have been waiting for: attacking! My suggestion to defenders is to also read this article, since you would want to know how attackers… uh… attack.

Two small tips first: it’s a good idea to pick out any snipers first. A shaft could make a last second kill if not taken care of. Second tip, it’s not a good idea to go along. The gameplay can be very dynamic owing to the small map size, thus opponents would be spawning back at the base with lightning speed. It’s empty at first, you blink your eye… and poof, 3 firebirds are after you.

Your role

 

1.      To steal the flag and take it to your base

2.      To assist the flag-bearer by healing him (if you are an Isida), shooting down opponents and doing whatever will prevent the flag-bearer from getting harmed

3.      To capture the flag yourself if the initial flag-bearer dies in the process

 

Attack routes (for red teams it is the same)

(The pale blue indicates a path underneath above props)

There are three paths here, which I will divide into paths 1, 2 and 3. Path 1 is the one that leads up upper ramp 1 and down upper ramp 2, path 2 goes through the underpass and path 3 goes up upper ramp 3, across the centre and merges with path 1

 

Path 1: a decently quick route. The path offers good protection until you go down ramp 2, and also allows you to pick up double armour and speed boost, but if you are a light hull, make sure you don’t fall off the map!

Path 2: the fastest possible route, and almost perpetual protection offered, at least if you are a small tank. You can pick up a DD and DA here, and equip a speed boost and your tank will be unstoppable.

Path 3: it is the slowest route amongst the 3, but allows you to pick up all the supplies. Recommended to use a hunter or Viking here.

 

Escape routes (for red team it is the same)

(The pale blue indicates a path underneath above props)

Again, three escape means. Path 1 goes up upper ramp 2, down upper ramp 1, path 2 is the underpass, and path 3 up upper ramp 4 and down upper ramp 3.

 

Path 1: the attack route, just reversed. It’s good for light hulls since it’s just a short journey, and you can also pick up a repair box here so no worries up dying halfway (unless, of course, your hand slips and you fall into the void…)

Path 2: also an attack route, and also the best escape route in my opinion. Not much to say here, refer to path 2 of the attack routes

Path 3: it is pretty similar to path 1, with a few exceptions. It is slightly more sheltered because there is a total of 3 fences along the route, compared to 1 for path 1. You can also pick up the RB quicker, so less danger of dying.

Suggested equipment

1.      Wasp-Firebird

Here, the firebird is handy for blasting all the enemies as you reach the base and run off with the precious flag. Due to the wasp’s low (VERY LOW) armour, make sure you are flanked or have an Isida with you.

A very important note: this combo is only for the very skilled at driving. If you are the type that’s used to mammoths, don’t use this combo. Seriously, don’t. fastest hull in the game + 90 degrees sudden route turns + possible speed boost + driving backwards in order to shoot at enemies = 99.99% chance off falling off the map. So, remember my warning.

 

2.      Viking-Twins

Viking has moderate speed but armour good enough to last you at least halfway, so it makes it into the suggested equipment. Still, this is one versatile hull, so you’ll probably see it a lot.

Twins is the best possible choice here. It’s deadly up close, and has insane knockback so you might possibly knock off the aim of a few opponents. It is also better than fire/freeze/Isida in the sense that it is medium-ranged, thus you can still injure opponents while running for your life.

 

3.      Hornet-Isida

A great combo for CTF, especially when you are stealing the flag. Isida’s self-heal really helps out here, even if it got nerfed in the previous updates.

Once again, due to the low health that hornet has, it’s a good idea to have repair box on standby, or you can make friends with another Isida. The underpass is also the best escape route here because of the shelter and also the quick escape it provides.

 

4.      Dictator-Railgun

Ah, the nostalgia. This combo was once feared as the deadliest of combos, and is still popular now. This beauty can slice, multi-kill, tank shots, auto-aim, distract, knock off shots and basically be the epitome of awesomeness. In fact, this combo is also good as a flank or meat shield, which could come in handy.

Dictator’s unique mount helps if you are escaping through the underpass, and also allows you to shoot over the fences through the little hole. If you pick up a double damage and add in a repair box, you’re invincible, no questions asked.

The only pesky people here are the short-rangers, but since they are normally mounted on a light hull, a mine will do the trick.

 

5.      Hunter-Hammer

(A little backstory, skip this part if you are in a hurry) a tank I remember very well from a player I once met, by the name of ‘Only_Hunter_Hammer’, and true enough, that was his main combo. He came in about 5 minutes into the match, and… man. He trashed my team, totally trashed it with more than 10 flag captures, and he wasn’t even a drugger. This is perhaps how this combo made it into the list.

Hammer is devastating up close, obviously, especially with the slugger modification, though it’s not recommended to use the mod here as the splash could be useful if the opponents are congregated at the base. Any wasps or hornets can be easily taken care of, and for the heavier hulls… hunter should be able to hold on long enough.

Attack formations

Here I add a few attack formations that are deathly effective if carried out correctly. Unfortunately, the real difficult part wouldn’t be the execution of the formation but rather getting your teammates to listen to you…

 

Formation 1: x1 wasp-firebird + x1 wasp-isida + x2 viking-railgun

The wasp- firebird goes to the base, preferably from the upper ramps, and takes the flag, while the Isida heals the firebird. The Vikings can stay at the fences at the centre and shoot off any nuisances. This is one destructive pair, considering that two railguns can take out all but the heaviest hulls, and if JUST ONE OF THEM JUST SO HAPPEN TO BE DRUGGING… nothing can survive.

 

Formation 2: Mammoth-Firebird + (hidden in mammoth) Hornet-Isida

Since you have titanic armour, your only nemesis is basically those short range turrets, so a firebird against firebird would be the best deal here.

When the mammoth dies or needs help, the hornet can move out and take the flag to complete the mission, or heal the mammoth. The main advantage of this combo is that it only requires two people, but can potentially be one of the most effective attack formations out there.

 

Formation 3: x2 Mammoth-Twins + x1 Hunter-Hammer

A slightly more complex strategy here; the mammoths will first attack from two sides, while the hunter sneaks in through the underpass and takes the flag unnoticed (hopefully). The mammoths can distract the rest of the opponents long enough to prevent the hunter from dying until the flag is successfully captured. They can also block anyone who goes after the hunter – with mammoth’s mammoth size it’s not hard (pun intended)

Support

Finally we come to support, my personal playing style! It is also in my opinion the most fun – you spent the battle shooting down people and making them rage.

Your role

1.      To shoot down opponents in your vicinity -  as much as you please

2.      To assist in the defence or attack if necessary

There, simple right? To put it in other words, you’re something like a midfielder, the less important but most versatile position.

Good camping locations

One note: please read this part if you generally stay in one place while supporting, if you are more of a hit-and-runner, just skip it, it’s a waste of time to read this part, the only small thing you can learn is where you can find some of your supporting teammates. Still, if you have time, nothing too bad will happen even if you read this, right?

(the grey location is on the underpass, behind the pipe)

 

Location 1: a good spot – you can reach most of the map from here, all but two of the upper ramps, ramp 2 and 4. This position is mostly defence-based, considering it is right at the base, but with a long range weapon you can shoot at the enemy base too.

Location 2: although minimal shielding is provided, this is easily the best spot. From here you can have a view of the whole map, safe a section of the underpass. It is suggested to stay behind the fence until you shoot; if you can shoot the enemy, it means they can too.

Location 3: this is a good location if you have dictator to shoot over the fences. Unfortunately with flat hulls this place will only work on defence, but you can deter enemies from escaping with the flag at this position.

Location 4: this location is almost the same as 2, so not much to say here. Basically, it offers more protection compared to 2, but compromises a bit of the map view.

Suggested equipment

1.      Hornet-Firebird

This one is strictly for the runner, the light hull ensures that. If you are talking about strategy, I would suggest ridding any stray opponents first, then running to the enemy base like a kamikaze and blast everyone. Get a double damage and you’ll rack up some supermassive kills, for the small price of a few deaths.

One very important note: unless you are in the process of killing someone, KEEP MOVING. Hornet is a considerably fragile hull, second only to wasp. You stay still, you die. Simple.

 

2.      Viking-Thunder

Aha! Now we talk business; the versatile Viking-thunder, and after all, being a supporter is all about being versatile, right?

This tank is works best at midfield, meaning, around spots 2 and 4. This tank also has the potential to rack up some amazing kills if paired with a double damage, especially with the splash damage that could earn you multi-kills.

 

3.      Titan-Smoky

An ugly combo at the very least, but it’s a beast. Who cares if you’re ugly when you are dominating the map and bringing glory to your team?

I would suggest using this combo more on the defence side, so spot 1 would be the best place for you, but you could always go to the other spots if you find they work more for you. It’s not recommended to be focused on supporting the attack, or titan’s heavy hull would really be wasted.

 

4.      Viking-Vulcan

And… again Viking comes back thanks to its supreme versatility. This combo is suited for the underpass/spot 4 the most. Pop out of shelter, drill someone down and then go back to safety. If you can pop out at the exact right moments, you’ll be virtually untouchable.

Go for the lighter hulls, though, like wasp, hornet and hunter, or you’ll spend ages drilling down a mammoth and by the time you finish someone’s taken care of you.

Summary

And after ages of reading (and getting lots of useful information) we wrap up the CTF chapter, and shortly we’ll move on to the Deathmatch chapter. On an overall look, CTF can be very fun or very annoying, depending on whether you are dominating or getting dominated, though after reading this guide I hope it will be the former! If you see an Atra CTF, go in, there’s bound to be lots of fun!

 

DM and TDM mode

Deathmatch. The second-most commonly played mode in Atra, the love of every crystal-hoarder, and the first most commonly played overall with a 46% of battles made being DM. Team Deathmatch, not as popular as his brother game mode but still fun nonetheless.

Both of these game modes can actually also be very fun to play in, especially being a pro and making everyone rage ;) thus far, the Atra I’ve known has unfailingly been divided into two types of players, as I like to call them: campers and runners, or in other words the heavy and light hulls.

This section was originally fully Deathmatch, but I realised that many things in TDM were similar thus I merged the two sections together.

Campers

Generally here is the gameplay for you: you stay at one place, moving only when necessary, and snipe off people in the vicinity one-by-one. The most effective combo here would be a heavy hull and a medium-range, fast reload turret, more on that in the suggested equipment section. The only weakness is the short-rangers (again!) but (again!) mining comes in handy.

Good camping locations

Refer to the “good camping locations” section in support, CTF. You’ll find that most of what is written there also applies to Deathmatch, since CTF support is just shooting down everybody which is the same logic in DM. Just watch out for all sides.

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Vulcan

A good combo for any camper, in any map, except for the smallest of them, such as duel. Provided your range of view is very wide, once you have picked out an unfortunate victim, they have no escape.

In fact, this is also a smart combo. Get the hull with the most darned insane armour in the whole game, and put on it a turret with the most darned fastest reload in the whole game, and you get this one awesome combo. The overheating is no problem, mammoth’s armour has taken care of that.

 

2.      Dictator-Ricochet

Here I would suggest spots 1 and 3, here 2 is not a good choice as dictator’s mount prevents you from reaching the bases, but it helps when you are at one of the bases and want to hit someone in the centre without depending on auto-aiming.

Another advantage of using this combo is that you don’t need to worry about any short-rangers. Anyone stupid enough to actually go up to a ricochet will find themselves getting blown sky-high.

 

3.      Titan-Smoky

Did I say that this was good in CTF? Well, lemme tell you something: this combo is downright legendary in Deathmatch. The build is absolutely flawless – amazing armour, rapid fire rate, high damage, especially at the higher ranks, critical hits, good range, huge impact force – what a camper needs, this thing has it

In fact, if you manage to get your hands on a DD box or decide to become a drugger, you’ll easily blast everyone into oblivion, no doubt about that.

 

4.      Viking-Vulcan

Once you start playing with this, you’ll realise the strategy is actually very similar to Mammy-Vulcan. The only major difference is that you’ll be able to move around more, so you should. Kill a few people and change a location, repeat. If you don’t move, and you are also the dominator of the map, people are going to target you.

I dunno why people don’t target you that much if you move though

Runners

Now we bring in the next chapter in the DM series: runners. If you don’t know what that means, it’s basically people who use the hit-and run tactic; find a victim, rush up to him, kill him and repeat again. This strategy can be very effective if you are able to do one thing; stay out of fire. Always be subtle, hiding behind ramps but staying on the move.

 

Running paths

Route 1: this is by far the safest path, since it goes through the underpass. The main idea is to kill any campers at one base, when people start noticing you, move on through the underpass to the other base.

Route 2: this is potentially the most rewarding route, covering almost the entire map. Unfortunately this is also the most dangerous, especially as you cross the centre. Do not stray at the top for too long.

Route 3: as you can see, this path goes one big circle around the map, and is very similar to path 2. It is slightly safer, though, since you won’t be crossing the centre.

Of course, by recommending these paths it does not mean you should follow these routes exactly. If there is an easy kill or a supply box close to you, by all means go off your path and get it. You’re not a synchronised robot.

 

Suggested equipment

1.      Hornet-Firebird

A combo seen by many of you, hornet paired with firebird is quite a versatile combo in small maps. Hornet’s speed and firebird’s high damage makes this a combo not to be underestimated. Don’t go face to face with other tanks though. Make sure you have the element of surprise.

 

2.      Hunter-Twins

Hunter is generally classified a medium hull, but since twins is a medium range weapon, there’s less need to move around, thus you can invest a bit more in armour and neglect a bit of speed.

Try to get as close as possible, though, since twin’s damage will decrease over distance, it won’t have much of an effect from far-range.

 

3.      Wasp-Freeze

This combo is best against the slow turret turners, like railgun or Vulcan (when shooting). Adding on with the freeze, it’ll be very easy to stay out of the line of fire by running circles around the opponent. Since wasp is so fragile, I would suggest path 1, which provides the most protection.

 

4.      Hunter-Hammer

H-H is back (you might remember it from the CTF attackers section)! Decent speed and armour, and a high damage turret. I would recommend you going for the slugger modification to deal more damage up close. The spread isn’t very useful in a typical Atra DM match.

 

5.      Hornet-Ricochet

In case you are allergic to hornet firebird for some reason, use this combo. It can whiz around the map and blow everyone up with rico’s bullets (they’re awesome up-close) all the while having a swag look.

Summary

As we end this (rather short compared to CTF) chapter, I would like to thank you for bearing with me. In my view, this part was not as detailed as the rest, but there is still a lot of information in it, so hopefully your knowledge of tanki has increased even more!

Ok, you’re probably impatient to finish the guide. So here we go… the CP CHAPTER!

 

CP mode

 

At last we come to the last game mode – control points! Although they are not as common as DM or CTF, it is nevertheless fun to play in, and offers an equally dynamic gameplay. After all, for such a small map, it contains an amazing 5 CP’s! So… here we go guys!

Taking points

Here is the general strategy: at the start, go directly for points 2 or 4 depending on your team side. These are the closest to the bases and also the most protected, thus should be the easiest to capture. Afterwards focus on point 1,3 and 5 at the top, and just leave one person to hold point 2/4.

If a point is taken by the other team, never go along. Chances are you’ll get killed before you can take the point or even neutralize it. Taking a friendly buddy along can help you capture the point faster and also get yourself flanked.

Your role

1.      To capture a point that is neutral

2.      To neutralize a point that is controlled by the opponent team

3.      To assist any teammate in capturing a point by capturing it with him or killing opponents that threaten his safety

 

A closer look at the points

Point 1/5: the generally neutral point, but point 1 would normally be captured by the blue team and 5 vice versa, as the fences offer some protection.

Point 2/4: the closest points to the base. Not much battling happens here, since it is so close to the base and also very sheltered. Juts one tank should be able to take and hold the point.

Point 3: where the heat of the battle takes place, and often the pint that determines the winning team of a battle as this is the centremost thus the most equal poin on the map, meaning that its location is not advantageous to any of the teams. When you are capturing the point, DO NOT stay right on top of the point; everyone will be able to see you.

Suggested equipment

Take note that the equipment specified here is mainly for capturing the point, not holding it as well. Once you capture a point, retreat and capture other points. Leave the captured points to the defenders.

 

1.      Hunter-Ricochet

A mix of a stable high and decently high-damaged turret results in this combo. It might not be able to hold if a mammoth-firebird comes chugging along, but it should ward off the majority of opponents long enough to get the

point.

 

2.      Viking-Smoky

Compared to the previous combo, I traded off a bit of hunter’s speed for Viking’s noticeably higher armour, arguably a wise decision. You may be less mobile thus less efficient, but you have a higher chance of capturing the point you are concentrated on.

Smoky can also deal quite a bit of damage, especially at closer range and small maps such as Atra.

 

3.      Hornet-Vulcan

Believe me, this combo works, and is also versatile since you can quickly move from one point to another and flank others along the way if another of your teammates are capturing a point. you should get an Isida to heal you as you go, though.

The Vulcan go also be replaced with the newest turret, striker. Atra is a small map thus the low movement speed of the projectiles are not really a problem. Striker in sniping mode is devastating, so you probably don’t need to worry about the short-rangers.

 

4.      Hunter-Hammer

No, I am not bias to this combo, it is quite effective. Hammer can shoot at mid-range as well as short range, so you can deal with all but the far-rangers while capturing a point. As for the snipers… stay away from them, give Buddha some money and pray that he will prevent any of the railguns from spotting you.

 

5.      Titan-Twins

The oddball here, considering it is the only heavy hull you’ll find on the list, but that makes it all the more an all-rounder as you can both capture and hold a point effectively. Handy for going for points 2 and 4, but not good if you find that the points alliances keep changing from blue to red to blue. In that case, go with combo 3.

Defending

As you read this article, you’ll realise that CP defending is not really different from CTF defending. It’s just that you have to defend a different thing, namely a point instead of a flag, so (unfortunately or fortunately depending on your POV) I will not make this part too long.

Your role

1.      To ensure that no opponents neutralize or capture a point your team is controlling

2.      To shoot and kill an opponent who is harming a teammate who is capturing a point

3.      To notify the designated people of any neutral points available for capture, or any points controlled by the opponent team that has been left alone.

Defending spots (for red base it is reversed)

The spots can vary according to the point that you are defending, but here I show some of the more general and versatile ones.

 

Spot 1: a really good spot, as is the same for CTF. You have full view of spots 1 and 3, and partial view of spot 2. You’ll also be able to kill any opponents when they spawn at the base. They might get mad and swear vengeance on you, though.

Spot 2: not very different from spot 1, but it sacrifices a bit of safety for more view of spot 2 and 5. Handy if you are the one assigned to protect spot 2. I would suggest you use dictator so that you can fire at the centre area too.

Spot 3: a relatively exposed place, so you should put on a mammoth before venturing here. It generally protects spot 1, but you’ll have partial view of spots 2, 3 and 5 too.

Spot 4: this spot is simply spot 3, with the statistics reversed; the main point being protected becomes 5 instead of 1.

Spot 5: a rather exposed spot, but the view is well worth it. You’ll have direct contact with spot 3, thus will be able to protect it more effectively, and will be able to see spots 1 and 5. The enemies will not be able to shoot you on upper ramps 2, 4, the underpass and the enemy base.

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Twins

It’s not a bad combo, the proof being its frequent appearance in product kits, for example the destroyer kit. I also encounter at least one of these fellas in my everyday battles. Why is so good at CP defending is due to twin’s deadly close-range damage.

 

2.      Titan-Ricochet

Also a popular and reasonably impressive combo to behold, Titan-Rico is in fact not all that different from Mammy-Twins, except for the (slightly) increased speed and more compact  bullets, meaning increased damage but longer reload.

Mammy-Twins still beats this combo in terms of looks, though just my personal opinion

 

3.      Dictator-Thunder

Owing to thunder’s splash damage, I would not suggest you protect a point by staying right beside it; instead protect it from a distance, i.e spots 1 and 2 in the defending spots section.

Thunder’s splash damage could help out a lot – often I see people crowding around points they control, and thunder can take them out in one fell swoop.

 

4.      Dictator-Hammer

Opposite to the point before this, you would want to get as close to the point as possible, since hammer’s damage decreases noticeably over distance. You’ll also not be able to fire the full power of your hammer on anyone idiotic enough to come alone. Simply: stay away, no damage on opponent. Get close, punish him thoroughly.

Summary

That was short, wasn’t it? Now we’ve finished all 4 of the game mode chapters, we’ll move on to the next few aspects of tank-building shortly.

As with the CTF and DM/TDM chapters, I hope that you have learnt something new and valuable, and that this guide has already helped you become a better tanker. If it hasn’t worry not! There’s still a few pages to go…

 

Paints

Before we move on, I would like to implore you not to take this section carelessly. Paints can play a vital role in battles, especially for CTF. Taking along the watercolour paint while stealing a flag won’t exactly increase your chances of going unnoticed.

Standing out

This is probably for the minority of you; standing out with a paint. There could be a few reasons for your choice, be it to serve as a distraction, to look cool or to show off a new paint you spent months to get.

Since the idea here is to contrast so as to stand out, you’ll need a paint that contrasts with light brown and white. If you bothered to check up the colour wheel, you should have a good idea what to expect. If you didn’t, just read on.

 

NANO: price 350 000 crystals, unlocks at marshal

A good choice. The light blue would certainly stand out, but it’s more effective on the summer mode. With winter, where everything is white it won’t stand out that much. This paint is certainly expensive, but it is really eye-catching and has no end of coolness. One problem is that it has a relatively high unlock rank.

 

NEURON: price 13.99 €, unlocks at recruit

The light and dark colours here really contrasts and it’s also seriously cool. Downside? Costs real money, but that won’t be a problem if you invest in Tanki, right? Plus, it unlocks at recruit rank, so you can buy the paint straight away.

 

MINT: price 19.99 €, unlocks at recruit

More expensive compared to neuron, with a 6 € increase in money, but much, much cooler in my opinion. In fact, I think it’s one of the best paints in the game in terms of design, especially the little crisscross patterning. It also has a very balanced shade of green, light enough but not too light that it becomes a bit whitish – the perfect shade!

 

ELECTRA: price 50 000 crystals, unlocks at third lieutenant

What makes this paint really stand out is those jagged bolts of lightning against a dark red background, a contrast not commonly seen. This paint is also a good choice for the money-saver; it is much cheaper compared to the other lieutenant paints.

 

CHERRY: price 50 000 crystals, unlocks at brigadier

Another cool paint. And no, unlike what you may think, it doesn’t actually have cherry drawings on the paint, it more of resembles red wavy plates overlapping each other with small gaps in between where natural shadows form. One REALLY big reason to buy this paint, though, is the insane price of 50 000 crystals, considering it is a brigadier-ranked paint.

One small note before we move on: alright, if you are talking about showing off, ignore all the paints above and just get the golden star paint. That’s bound to get a few admiring gasps from the other players!

Camouflage

Now we have camouflage, i.e. blending in with the surroundings. A few reasons you might want to blend in might be to steal the flag unnoticed or tag along with someone and heal them undercover. As you can see, camouflage is mostly for the sniper or healer, since these two roles would not do good if they stood out.

Anyway, I’m sure all of you are eager to know the 5 paints that have made it into my list, so without further ado, let us welcome them into the spotlight!

 

TUNDRA: price 5 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

This was one of the original paints in the game, designed especially for camouflage in certain maps, with a light brown colour and shades of green entwined in it.

This may not be the perfect blend, but it certainly would do the job for a sniper. It’s also a good starting paint before you move on to buy better ones, given its early unlock rank.

 

SANDSTONE: price 6 000 crystals, unlocks at first lieutenant

If you have ever seen this paint, you probably would have expected it to make its way into this list. It’s the perfect blend of colours – light brown with tinges of dark brown speckles. It’s a must equip when you are on a daring mission to steal the flag and bring victory to your team. It’s also a pretty awesome paint in terms of design, too.

 

BLACKSMITH: price 225 000 crystals, unlocks at major

This paint is actually white, with grey lines running along it, thus it is more suited for winter battles. It’ll probably stand out quite a bit in summer battles. The grey lines could be nuisance when you are trying to creep up onto an enemy, but they’re not that noticeable from far range.

 

HIVE: price 120 000 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

It’s not as good a camouflage as the other 4, that’s for definite, what with it being a bit more orangey-coloured than light brown, but at least it still allows some blending. I would suggest sandstone over it, though; the former is much cheaper and cooler.

 

ROCK: price 15 000 crystals, unlocks at field marshal

Considering the rank, this is one extremely cheap paint, any field marshal should buy it even if just for the sake of expanding your arsenal of paints.

This paint also offers really good blending; I would say it’s only second to sandstone. It’s also a cool paint to have; it’s a must-use if you want your tank to have that rugged, veteran look.

 

Modules

Modules probably do not play a very obvious role at first, but in the long run, they could save you many rage quits due to getting killed.

Overally, you’re gonna want to have a protection against thunder, smoky, Vulcan, twins and ricochet. You might also consider some close-range protection if you are stealing flags or guarding the base.

LGC (legacy) modules

DESERT: price 4500 crystals, unlocks at warrant 2

Smoky 5%

Twins 5%

Ricochet 28%

Hammer 10%

Here they mainly provide protection from ricochet and hammer, and also slightly from smoky and twins as an added bonus. It’s not a bad module considering the price and unlock rank.

VORTEX: price 13 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

Thunder 10%

Ricochet 10%

Vulcan 10%

A great choice. Even yet good protection from three turrets, all of which can be found in Atra commonly.

FRACTURE: price 30 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 5

Smoky 10%

Railgun 20%

Vulcan 12%

Decent and all-round protection, though I would recommend the vortex LGC module over this. The railgun protection is really insane, though.

LOAM: price 6 500 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant colonel

Firebird 36%

Thunder 10%

Freeze 10%

Ricochet 10%

This is recommended for the flag-stealer – the short-medium range protection is covered here, especially the firebird protection. It also comes with a very good price considering it’s one of the rare 4-protection modules.

AFRICA: price 400 000 crystals, unlocks at generalissimo

Twins 25%

Thunder 25%

Hammer 20%

Vulcan 30%

Dang. Now we talk business. 4 protections, all turrets covered are commonly found in Atra, average of 25% protection, 38% when fully MU’ed? *shakes head* this one is fantastic. In fact, if you’re talking about mid-range protection, look no further than this, it’s the best possible LGC module for that.

Single modules Price: M0 – 1000 crystals, M1 – 2000 crystals, M2 – 20 000 crystals, M3 – 50 000 crystals

1.      The FOX series

This one is particularly recommended for stealing the flag, since you’ll be going up close with the enemies.

FOX S-A firebird

FOX S-B freeze

FOX S-C Isida

2.      The DOLPHIN series

This one is simpler – it’s for all the general weapons in Atra.

DOLPHIN S-A smoky

DOLPHIN S-B thunder

DOLPHIN S-C Vulcan

Double modules Price: M0 – 2500 crystals, M1 – 15 000 crystals, M2 – 50 000 crystals, M3 – 150 000 crystals

1.      The PANTHER series

You can mainly find protection from twins and smoky here, both of which can also be commonly found.

PHANTER D-A twins hammer

PHANTER D-B smoky twins

PHANTER D-C ricochet twins

Triple modules Price: M0 – 50 000 crystals, M1 – 30 000 crystals, M2 – 100 000 crystals, M3 – 250 000 crystals

1.      The SHARK series

The triple modules, at last! Personally, I think they are a bit expensive, but after all they are the ultimate STD modules. You’ll find that the protection in the shark series are mainly from thunder and Vulcan, which is good. I do not recommend shark T-A, though, mainly because of the (almost) redundant rail and shaft.

SHARK T-A railgun shaft Vulcan

SHARK T-B smoky railgun Vulcan

SHARK T-C smoky Isida thunder

SHARK T-D twins thunder Vulcan

SHARK T-E Isida Vulcan thunder

SHARK T-F smoky Vulcan thunder

Spectrum modules

Do I need to explain myself here? The spectrum modules, or rare modules as they call it in the wiki, are modules with universal protection against all turrets and mines. If you just happen to have this module, USE IT. DON’T HESITATE. Unfortunately, you’ll have to have the champion, silver, bronze, acid or helper paint to get the spectrum module, so… not likely.

SPECTRUM M-A – 25%

SPECTRUM M-B – 20%

SPECTRUM M-C – 15%

LORD PAINT SPECTRUM MODULE – 50%

DEVIL PAINT SPECTRUM MODULE – 98%

(Ignore the last two, they’re redundant, unless you just happen to be sidlob or Godmode_On. In which case, thank you, I’m very proud that you put aside time to view my humble guide.)

 

Product kits

As anyone should know, product kits offer the nest deals in the Tanki shop, with the total of up to 80% off the price if you bought the items individually, for example, the Osaka kit. It is also handy that the combos in product kits are the often-used and popular one, so there’s probably a kit that suits you. In fact, there are 89 tank kits in the game, 108 if including the discontinued ones.

Attacking/Hit-and-Running

HOOLIGAN (HORNET M1/SMOKY M1): price 26 300 crystals, unlocks at master sergeant

CORSAIR (VIKING M1/TWINS M1): price 57 540 crystals, unlocks at sergeant major

STINGER (HORNET M2/ISIDA M2): price 120 825 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

PITBULL (HUNTER M2/HAMMER M2): price 230 600 crystals, unlocks at third lieutenant

PROMETHEUS (HUNTER M3/FIREBIRD M3): price 472 860 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

MAN-O-WAR (HORNET M3/ THUNDER M3): price 367 225 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

Defending/Camping

EXTERMINATOR (DICTATOR M1/Vulcan M1): price 58 200 crystals, unlocks at first sergeant

MOUNTAIN (MAMMOTH M2/Vulcan M2): price 169 540 crystals, unlocks at second lieutenant.

ANNIHILIATOR (VIKING M2/ THUNDER M2): price 253 220 crystals, unlocks at first lieutenant

MAESTRO (DICTATOR M3/RICOCHET M3): price 458 340 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

GUARDIAN (TITAN M3/SMOKY M3): price 471 690 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

Conclusion

And with the last section, I end this (very) long and detailed guide (please tell me you didn’t fall asleep halfway).  Through this guide, I hope that you have been opened to the full capacity of fun that Atra, this humble map, can hold. It would be a pity if this map were to lay waste at the dark, forgotten parts of Tanki Online...

I hope too that you have enjoyed reading this map guide. Do feel free to comment on it and help me improve!

And that’s it, guys! Have fun, and good luck in your future battling!

 

-lordtanker9000

here is my proof of creation:

Most of the images are Not found/Removed.

[HAPPSHOT 2,029]

i will publish this in AWC when this contest ends. in the meantime, enjoy! :)

Welcome, and thank you for taking off time to read my guide on Atra! This guide will cover just about everything there is to, from battle formations to mining spots… so let’s read on!

 

Statistics

Length: 27 props

(135 meters)

 

Width: 14 props

(70 meters)

 

Surface area: 378 props

(9450 m²)

 

Unlock rank: Warrant 1

 

Player limit: 10, 5v5

 

Modes: CTF, DM, TDM, CP

 

Overall stats

Size: 2/5 – one of the smaller maps

Features/graphics: 1/5 – a bit bland, not much interesting stuff

Parkour: 1/5 – meh. Not the map for parkourists, there’s nothing the conquer

Gameplay: 4/5 – an awesome map for any playing style

Navigation: 4/5 – quite easy to move around, just don’t fall off

Versatility: 5/5 – one of the most versatile maps. Any combo can excel here

 

A little history

Atra first appeared in Tanki on October 1, 2010. It was created by JIEHb, and unlike other mapmakers like DukePlatinum, this was his only map.

Atra was not always like the one we see now. There were previously two versions of Atra – Atra 1 and Atra 2. Atra 1 had only the upper ramps and two long pipes replacing the underpass of current-day Atra, while Atra 2 was more similar, but the notable differences are the straight grass route replaced by the underpass, only two ramps leading up to the centre and the absence of any fences. There was also a “secret” (alright to be honest it’s in broad daylight) room under one of the ramps. see below for the pictures, Atra 1 is on the left and Atra 2 the right.

These two maps were eventually merged together and the current Atra was born.

       

 

Overview

Atra is noticeably different from other maps. For one, it is inversely symmetrical, that is, if you chopped the map along the centre and rotated one piece 90 degrees you would get two identical pieces.

It is very common at the m0 and early m1 ranks, almost as popular as silence at warrant ranks, but after that it loses popularity and then disappears altogether, which I felt was a huge pity, since it offers such a dynamic gameplay because of the lack of hiding spots and the small size.

The most common mode here is CTF, and no wonder. Two bases connected by an almost straight route leading right towards each other? There’s a plethora of chances and ways to get the flag.

It can be really fun to play with in the normal modes, but I don’t suggest parkour here, unless doing barrel rolls in the sky is counted.

 

Map analysis

Blue base: where the blue team spawns

Red base: where the red team spawns

Upper ramps: the ramps that are the only means of accessing the centre, I have divided them into ramps 1,2,3 and 4

Centre: the highest point on the map, you can gain a 360 degree view here. It is also where most of the action takes place

Underpass: leads from blue base straight to red base and vice versa, making it a good escape route if you have the flag

 

CTF mode

At last, we move on the first mode available in Atra, CTF! It is the most commonly played mode, so it has the priority here. In CTF there are only 3 roles you can play: attack, defend and support. Briefly putting it…

Attack: focus on getting the flag

Defend: protecting your own flag and teammates

Support: shoot people randomly and assist in attack or defend when necessary

Defenders

For spots to camp at, I suggest the behind the two fences at the very back of the bases, you can peek through the hole when shooting and stay hidden the rest of the time. This place is also the most well-protected location on the map since there are only two exposed sides – the left and right, and even it will be very hard for the opponents to reach those sides.

Your role

-        To prevent any opponents from harming your teammates by shooting them down

-        To prevent opponents from reaching the flag

-        To kill any opponents who has taken the flag

-        To return the flag if necessary

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Shaft

Most of you probably expected this, the king of heavy hulls and the king of damage together into one tank. Although shaft is generally for the large maps, it works here too. Speed wouldn’t be a problem since you won’t be moving about much, so it’s safe to neglect speed here.

One small tip: when aiming the shaft, keep the target in view but hide the laser, i.e. if shooting at someone at opponent base, keep him in view but hide the laser behind the fence until fully charged, since if the opponent sees the laser he’ll definitely not remain a sitting duck.

 

2.      Mammoth-Freeze

Alas, the underrated mammy-freeze. This is often considered the worst combo, but I beg to differ. In fact, it works well – incredibly well – in Atra when defending.

When the enemy comes, just pop out of the shelter of the fence and blast him with freeze, slowing him down. After that, you can finish him off at your leisure. Easy-peasy. The only problem might be the opponent running away before you can get him, but this can be solved if you pop out slightly before he gets the flag. You can also buy the “high pressure pump” modification so that range can increase.

 

3.      Viking-Thunder

Another great combo. Viking isn’t the heaviest of hulls, but the little extra speed could help A LOT in flag returning after you kill the opponent, or another person can just snatch the flag.

Thunder is a good choice here because of the considerably high damage but quick reload. The only problem is the self-damage, but then, it’s not like the flag-stealer is going to come towards you after he snatches the flag, so no worries there. Even if he miraculously does, put a mine, blam.

 

4.      Dictator-Vulcan

I chose dictator here specially because of the high mount it has, which combined with the massive auto-aiming range of Vulcan allows the turret to reach the centre base even when on the base platform.

There are a few disadvantages though. Because of the high mount, Vulcan will not do much if shooting from the centre portion. Dictator is also considerably big allowing it to be shot more easily. Still, it can tank quite a few shots before failing.

 

5.      Hornet-Firebird

Yeah, yeah, I know. What the deal, man? Hornet’s armour totally sucks, why’d you still choose it? Well, the simple answer: more mobility. The speed is much needed when returning the flag, since, like I said for the Viking thunder part, you don’t want someone snatching the flag first before you can return it you also don’t want your own teammate returning the flag and getting the glory.  Plus, the low health can be compensated for by having a handy Isida with you.

Firebird makes it onto the mount since it has the highest dps in the whole game, one full bar can kill a mammoth, no questions asked. Especially if you’re dealing with a flag-stealer, since they generally have light hulls. Blast them with napalm and 2 seconds later, boom, their tanks blow up.

 

Protection

Coming to protection, I would suggest a protection from short ranged turrets paint, since your only true nemesis is a firebird/freeze/Isida who manages to get close.

I would also suggest protection from shaft. Unless the opponent is very close/ has pinpoint accuracy when aiming, only a shaft’s bullet can reach your tank.

Attackers

Ok! Now we move on to the section that most of you have been waiting for: attacking! My suggestion to defenders is to also read this article, since you would want to know how attackers… uh… attack.

Two small tips first: it’s a good idea to pick out any snipers first. A shaft could make a last second kill if not taken care of. Second tip, it’s not a good idea to go along. The gameplay can be very dynamic owing to the small map size, thus opponents would be spawning back at the base with lightning speed. It’s empty at first, you blink your eye… and poof, 3 firebirds are after you.

Your role

 

1.      To steal the flag and take it to your base

2.      To assist the flag-bearer by healing him (if you are an Isida), shooting down opponents and doing whatever will prevent the flag-bearer from getting harmed

3.      To capture the flag yourself if the initial flag-bearer dies in the process

 

Attack routes (for red teams it is the same)

(The pale blue indicates a path underneath above props)

There are three paths here, which I will divide into paths 1, 2 and 3. Path 1 is the one that leads up upper ramp 1 and down upper ramp 2, path 2 goes through the underpass and path 3 goes up upper ramp 3, across the centre and merges with path 1

 

Path 1: a decently quick route. The path offers good protection until you go down ramp 2, and also allows you to pick up double armour and speed boost, but if you are a light hull, make sure you don’t fall off the map!

Path 2: the fastest possible route, and almost perpetual protection offered, at least if you are a small tank. You can pick up a DD and DA here, and equip a speed boost and your tank will be unstoppable.

Path 3: it is the slowest route amongst the 3, but allows you to pick up all the supplies. Recommended to use a hunter or Viking here.

 

Escape routes (for red team it is the same)

(The pale blue indicates a path underneath above props)

Again, three escape means. Path 1 goes up upper ramp 2, down upper ramp 1, path 2 is the underpass, and path 3 up upper ramp 4 and down upper ramp 3.

 

Path 1: the attack route, just reversed. It’s good for light hulls since it’s just a short journey, and you can also pick up a repair box here so no worries up dying halfway (unless, of course, your hand slips and you fall into the void…)

Path 2: also an attack route, and also the best escape route in my opinion. Not much to say here, refer to path 2 of the attack routes

Path 3: it is pretty similar to path 1, with a few exceptions. It is slightly more sheltered because there is a total of 3 fences along the route, compared to 1 for path 1. You can also pick up the RB quicker, so less danger of dying.

Suggested equipment

1.      Wasp-Firebird

Here, the firebird is handy for blasting all the enemies as you reach the base and run off with the precious flag. Due to the wasp’s low (VERY LOW) armour, make sure you are flanked or have an Isida with you.

A very important note: this combo is only for the very skilled at driving. If you are the type that’s used to mammoths, don’t use this combo. Seriously, don’t. fastest hull in the game + 90 degrees sudden route turns + possible speed boost + driving backwards in order to shoot at enemies = 99.99% chance off falling off the map. So, remember my warning.

 

2.      Viking-Twins

Viking has moderate speed but armour good enough to last you at least halfway, so it makes it into the suggested equipment. Still, this is one versatile hull, so you’ll probably see it a lot.

Twins is the best possible choice here. It’s deadly up close, and has insane knockback so you might possibly knock off the aim of a few opponents. It is also better than fire/freeze/Isida in the sense that it is medium-ranged, thus you can still injure opponents while running for your life.

 

3.      Hornet-Isida

A great combo for CTF, especially when you are stealing the flag. Isida’s self-heal really helps out here, even if it got nerfed in the previous updates.

Once again, due to the low health that hornet has, it’s a good idea to have repair box on standby, or you can make friends with another Isida. The underpass is also the best escape route here because of the shelter and also the quick escape it provides.

 

4.      Dictator-Railgun

Ah, the nostalgia. This combo was once feared as the deadliest of combos, and is still popular now. This beauty can slice, multi-kill, tank shots, auto-aim, distract, knock off shots and basically be the epitome of awesomeness. In fact, this combo is also good as a flank or meat shield, which could come in handy.

Dictator’s unique mount helps if you are escaping through the underpass, and also allows you to shoot over the fences through the little hole. If you pick up a double damage and add in a repair box, you’re invincible, no questions asked.

The only pesky people here are the short-rangers, but since they are normally mounted on a light hull, a mine will do the trick.

 

5.      Hunter-Hammer

(A little backstory, skip this part if you are in a hurry) a tank I remember very well from a player I once met, by the name of ‘Only_Hunter_Hammer’, and true enough, that was his main combo. He came in about 5 minutes into the match, and… man. He trashed my team, totally trashed it with more than 10 flag captures, and he wasn’t even a drugger. This is perhaps how this combo made it into the list.

Hammer is devastating up close, obviously, especially with the slugger modification, though it’s not recommended to use the mod here as the splash could be useful if the opponents are congregated at the base. Any wasps or hornets can be easily taken care of, and for the heavier hulls… hunter should be able to hold on long enough.

Attack formations

Here I add a few attack formations that are deathly effective if carried out correctly. Unfortunately, the real difficult part wouldn’t be the execution of the formation but rather getting your teammates to listen to you…

 

Formation 1: x1 wasp-firebird + x1 wasp-isida + x2 viking-railgun

The wasp- firebird goes to the base, preferably from the upper ramps, and takes the flag, while the Isida heals the firebird. The Vikings can stay at the fences at the centre and shoot off any nuisances. This is one destructive pair, considering that two railguns can take out all but the heaviest hulls, and if JUST ONE OF THEM JUST SO HAPPEN TO BE DRUGGING… nothing can survive.

 

Formation 2: Mammoth-Firebird + (hidden in mammoth) Hornet-Isida

Since you have titanic armour, your only nemesis is basically those short range turrets, so a firebird against firebird would be the best deal here.

When the mammoth dies or needs help, the hornet can move out and take the flag to complete the mission, or heal the mammoth. The main advantage of this combo is that it only requires two people, but can potentially be one of the most effective attack formations out there.

 

Formation 3: x2 Mammoth-Twins + x1 Hunter-Hammer

A slightly more complex strategy here; the mammoths will first attack from two sides, while the hunter sneaks in through the underpass and takes the flag unnoticed (hopefully). The mammoths can distract the rest of the opponents long enough to prevent the hunter from dying until the flag is successfully captured. They can also block anyone who goes after the hunter – with mammoth’s mammoth size it’s not hard (pun intended)

Support

Finally we come to support, my personal playing style! It is also in my opinion the most fun – you spent the battle shooting down people and making them rage.

Your role

1.      To shoot down opponents in your vicinity -  as much as you please

2.      To assist in the defence or attack if necessary

There, simple right? To put it in other words, you’re something like a midfielder, the less important but most versatile position.

Good camping locations

One note: please read this part if you generally stay in one place while supporting, if you are more of a hit-and-runner, just skip it, it’s a waste of time to read this part, the only small thing you can learn is where you can find some of your supporting teammates. Still, if you have time, nothing too bad will happen even if you read this, right?

(the grey location is on the underpass, behind the pipe)

 

Location 1: a good spot – you can reach most of the map from here, all but two of the upper ramps, ramp 2 and 4. This position is mostly defence-based, considering it is right at the base, but with a long range weapon you can shoot at the enemy base too.

Location 2: although minimal shielding is provided, this is easily the best spot. From here you can have a view of the whole map, safe a section of the underpass. It is suggested to stay behind the fence until you shoot; if you can shoot the enemy, it means they can too.

Location 3: this is a good location if you have dictator to shoot over the fences. Unfortunately with flat hulls this place will only work on defence, but you can deter enemies from escaping with the flag at this position.

Location 4: this location is almost the same as 2, so not much to say here. Basically, it offers more protection compared to 2, but compromises a bit of the map view.

Suggested equipment

1.      Hornet-Firebird

This one is strictly for the runner, the light hull ensures that. If you are talking about strategy, I would suggest ridding any stray opponents first, then running to the enemy base like a kamikaze and blast everyone. Get a double damage and you’ll rack up some supermassive kills, for the small price of a few deaths.

One very important note: unless you are in the process of killing someone, KEEP MOVING. Hornet is a considerably fragile hull, second only to wasp. You stay still, you die. Simple.

 

2.      Viking-Thunder

Aha! Now we talk business; the versatile Viking-thunder, and after all, being a supporter is all about being versatile, right?

This tank is works best at midfield, meaning, around spots 2 and 4. This tank also has the potential to rack up some amazing kills if paired with a double damage, especially with the splash damage that could earn you multi-kills.

 

3.      Titan-Smoky

An ugly combo at the very least, but it’s a beast. Who cares if you’re ugly when you are dominating the map and bringing glory to your team?

I would suggest using this combo more on the defence side, so spot 1 would be the best place for you, but you could always go to the other spots if you find they work more for you. It’s not recommended to be focused on supporting the attack, or titan’s heavy hull would really be wasted.

 

4.      Viking-Vulcan

And… again Viking comes back thanks to its supreme versatility. This combo is suited for the underpass/spot 4 the most. Pop out of shelter, drill someone down and then go back to safety. If you can pop out at the exact right moments, you’ll be virtually untouchable.

Go for the lighter hulls, though, like wasp, hornet and hunter, or you’ll spend ages drilling down a mammoth and by the time you finish someone’s taken care of you.

Summary

And after ages of reading (and getting lots of useful information) we wrap up the CTF chapter, and shortly we’ll move on to the Deathmatch chapter. On an overall look, CTF can be very fun or very annoying, depending on whether you are dominating or getting dominated, though after reading this guide I hope it will be the former! If you see an Atra CTF, go in, there’s bound to be lots of fun!

 

DM and TDM mode

Deathmatch. The second-most commonly played mode in Atra, the love of every crystal-hoarder, and the first most commonly played overall with a 46% of battles made being DM. Team Deathmatch, not as popular as his brother game mode but still fun nonetheless.

Both of these game modes can actually also be very fun to play in, especially being a pro and making everyone rage ;) thus far, the Atra I’ve known has unfailingly been divided into two types of players, as I like to call them: campers and runners, or in other words the heavy and light hulls.

This section was originally fully Deathmatch, but I realised that many things in TDM were similar thus I merged the two sections together.

Campers

Generally here is the gameplay for you: you stay at one place, moving only when necessary, and snipe off people in the vicinity one-by-one. The most effective combo here would be a heavy hull and a medium-range, fast reload turret, more on that in the suggested equipment section. The only weakness is the short-rangers (again!) but (again!) mining comes in handy.

Good camping locations

Refer to the “good camping locations” section in support, CTF. You’ll find that most of what is written there also applies to Deathmatch, since CTF support is just shooting down everybody which is the same logic in DM. Just watch out for all sides.

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Vulcan

A good combo for any camper, in any map, except for the smallest of them, such as duel. Provided your range of view is very wide, once you have picked out an unfortunate victim, they have no escape.

In fact, this is also a smart combo. Get the hull with the most darned insane armour in the whole game, and put on it a turret with the most darned fastest reload in the whole game, and you get this one awesome combo. The overheating is no problem, mammoth’s armour has taken care of that.

 

2.      Dictator-Ricochet

Here I would suggest spots 1 and 3, here 2 is not a good choice as dictator’s mount prevents you from reaching the bases, but it helps when you are at one of the bases and want to hit someone in the centre without depending on auto-aiming.

Another advantage of using this combo is that you don’t need to worry about any short-rangers. Anyone stupid enough to actually go up to a ricochet will find themselves getting blown sky-high.

 

3.      Titan-Smoky

Did I say that this was good in CTF? Well, lemme tell you something: this combo is downright legendary in Deathmatch. The build is absolutely flawless – amazing armour, rapid fire rate, high damage, especially at the higher ranks, critical hits, good range, huge impact force – what a camper needs, this thing has it

In fact, if you manage to get your hands on a DD box or decide to become a drugger, you’ll easily blast everyone into oblivion, no doubt about that.

 

4.      Viking-Vulcan

Once you start playing with this, you’ll realise the strategy is actually very similar to Mammy-Vulcan. The only major difference is that you’ll be able to move around more, so you should. Kill a few people and change a location, repeat. If you don’t move, and you are also the dominator of the map, people are going to target you.

I dunno why people don’t target you that much if you move though

Runners

Now we bring in the next chapter in the DM series: runners. If you don’t know what that means, it’s basically people who use the hit-and run tactic; find a victim, rush up to him, kill him and repeat again. This strategy can be very effective if you are able to do one thing; stay out of fire. Always be subtle, hiding behind ramps but staying on the move.

 

Running paths

Route 1: this is by far the safest path, since it goes through the underpass. The main idea is to kill any campers at one base, when people start noticing you, move on through the underpass to the other base.

Route 2: this is potentially the most rewarding route, covering almost the entire map. Unfortunately this is also the most dangerous, especially as you cross the centre. Do not stray at the top for too long.

Route 3: as you can see, this path goes one big circle around the map, and is very similar to path 2. It is slightly safer, though, since you won’t be crossing the centre.

Of course, by recommending these paths it does not mean you should follow these routes exactly. If there is an easy kill or a supply box close to you, by all means go off your path and get it. You’re not a synchronised robot.

 

Suggested equipment

1.      Hornet-Firebird

A combo seen by many of you, hornet paired with firebird is quite a versatile combo in small maps. Hornet’s speed and firebird’s high damage makes this a combo not to be underestimated. Don’t go face to face with other tanks though. Make sure you have the element of surprise.

 

2.      Hunter-Twins

Hunter is generally classified a medium hull, but since twins is a medium range weapon, there’s less need to move around, thus you can invest a bit more in armour and neglect a bit of speed.

Try to get as close as possible, though, since twin’s damage will decrease over distance, it won’t have much of an effect from far-range.

 

3.      Wasp-Freeze

This combo is best against the slow turret turners, like railgun or Vulcan (when shooting). Adding on with the freeze, it’ll be very easy to stay out of the line of fire by running circles around the opponent. Since wasp is so fragile, I would suggest path 1, which provides the most protection.

 

4.      Hunter-Hammer

H-H is back (you might remember it from the CTF attackers section)! Decent speed and armour, and a high damage turret. I would recommend you going for the slugger modification to deal more damage up close. The spread isn’t very useful in a typical Atra DM match.

 

5.      Hornet-Ricochet

In case you are allergic to hornet firebird for some reason, use this combo. It can whiz around the map and blow everyone up with rico’s bullets (they’re awesome up-close) all the while having a swag look.

Summary

As we end this (rather short compared to CTF) chapter, I would like to thank you for bearing with me. In my view, this part was not as detailed as the rest, but there is still a lot of information in it, so hopefully your knowledge of tanki has increased even more!

Ok, you’re probably impatient to finish the guide. So here we go… the CP CHAPTER!

 

CP mode

 

At last we come to the last game mode – control points! Although they are not as common as DM or CTF, it is nevertheless fun to play in, and offers an equally dynamic gameplay. After all, for such a small map, it contains an amazing 5 CP’s! So… here we go guys!

Taking points

Here is the general strategy: at the start, go directly for points 2 or 4 depending on your team side. These are the closest to the bases and also the most protected, thus should be the easiest to capture. Afterwards focus on point 1,3 and 5 at the top, and just leave one person to hold point 2/4.

If a point is taken by the other team, never go along. Chances are you’ll get killed before you can take the point or even neutralize it. Taking a friendly buddy along can help you capture the point faster and also get yourself flanked.

Your role

1.      To capture a point that is neutral

2.      To neutralize a point that is controlled by the opponent team

3.      To assist any teammate in capturing a point by capturing it with him or killing opponents that threaten his safety

 

A closer look at the points

Point 1/5: the generally neutral point, but point 1 would normally be captured by the blue team and 5 vice versa, as the fences offer some protection.

Point 2/4: the closest points to the base. Not much battling happens here, since it is so close to the base and also very sheltered. Juts one tank should be able to take and hold the point.

Point 3: where the heat of the battle takes place, and often the pint that determines the winning team of a battle as this is the centremost thus the most equal poin on the map, meaning that its location is not advantageous to any of the teams. When you are capturing the point, DO NOT stay right on top of the point; everyone will be able to see you.

Suggested equipment

Take note that the equipment specified here is mainly for capturing the point, not holding it as well. Once you capture a point, retreat and capture other points. Leave the captured points to the defenders.

 

1.      Hunter-Ricochet

A mix of a stable high and decently high-damaged turret results in this combo. It might not be able to hold if a mammoth-firebird comes chugging along, but it should ward off the majority of opponents long enough to get the

point.

 

2.      Viking-Smoky

Compared to the previous combo, I traded off a bit of hunter’s speed for Viking’s noticeably higher armour, arguably a wise decision. You may be less mobile thus less efficient, but you have a higher chance of capturing the point you are concentrated on.

Smoky can also deal quite a bit of damage, especially at closer range and small maps such as Atra.

 

3.      Hornet-Vulcan

Believe me, this combo works, and is also versatile since you can quickly move from one point to another and flank others along the way if another of your teammates are capturing a point. you should get an Isida to heal you as you go, though.

The Vulcan go also be replaced with the newest turret, striker. Atra is a small map thus the low movement speed of the projectiles are not really a problem. Striker in sniping mode is devastating, so you probably don’t need to worry about the short-rangers.

 

4.      Hunter-Hammer

No, I am not bias to this combo, it is quite effective. Hammer can shoot at mid-range as well as short range, so you can deal with all but the far-rangers while capturing a point. As for the snipers… stay away from them, give Buddha some money and pray that he will prevent any of the railguns from spotting you.

 

5.      Titan-Twins

The oddball here, considering it is the only heavy hull you’ll find on the list, but that makes it all the more an all-rounder as you can both capture and hold a point effectively. Handy for going for points 2 and 4, but not good if you find that the points alliances keep changing from blue to red to blue. In that case, go with combo 3.

Defending

As you read this article, you’ll realise that CP defending is not really different from CTF defending. It’s just that you have to defend a different thing, namely a point instead of a flag, so (unfortunately or fortunately depending on your POV) I will not make this part too long.

Your role

1.      To ensure that no opponents neutralize or capture a point your team is controlling

2.      To shoot and kill an opponent who is harming a teammate who is capturing a point

3.      To notify the designated people of any neutral points available for capture, or any points controlled by the opponent team that has been left alone.

Defending spots (for red base it is reversed)

The spots can vary according to the point that you are defending, but here I show some of the more general and versatile ones.

 

Spot 1: a really good spot, as is the same for CTF. You have full view of spots 1 and 3, and partial view of spot 2. You’ll also be able to kill any opponents when they spawn at the base. They might get mad and swear vengeance on you, though.

Spot 2: not very different from spot 1, but it sacrifices a bit of safety for more view of spot 2 and 5. Handy if you are the one assigned to protect spot 2. I would suggest you use dictator so that you can fire at the centre area too.

Spot 3: a relatively exposed place, so you should put on a mammoth before venturing here. It generally protects spot 1, but you’ll have partial view of spots 2, 3 and 5 too.

Spot 4: this spot is simply spot 3, with the statistics reversed; the main point being protected becomes 5 instead of 1.

Spot 5: a rather exposed spot, but the view is well worth it. You’ll have direct contact with spot 3, thus will be able to protect it more effectively, and will be able to see spots 1 and 5. The enemies will not be able to shoot you on upper ramps 2, 4, the underpass and the enemy base.

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Twins

It’s not a bad combo, the proof being its frequent appearance in product kits, for example the destroyer kit. I also encounter at least one of these fellas in my everyday battles. Why is so good at CP defending is due to twin’s deadly close-range damage.

 

2.      Titan-Ricochet

Also a popular and reasonably impressive combo to behold, Titan-Rico is in fact not all that different from Mammy-Twins, except for the (slightly) increased speed and more compact  bullets, meaning increased damage but longer reload.

Mammy-Twins still beats this combo in terms of looks, though just my personal opinion

 

3.      Dictator-Thunder

Owing to thunder’s splash damage, I would not suggest you protect a point by staying right beside it; instead protect it from a distance, i.e spots 1 and 2 in the defending spots section.

Thunder’s splash damage could help out a lot – often I see people crowding around points they control, and thunder can take them out in one fell swoop.

 

4.      Dictator-Hammer

Opposite to the point before this, you would want to get as close to the point as possible, since hammer’s damage decreases noticeably over distance. You’ll also not be able to fire the full power of your hammer on anyone idiotic enough to come alone. Simply: stay away, no damage on opponent. Get close, punish him thoroughly.

Summary

That was short, wasn’t it? Now we’ve finished all 4 of the game mode chapters, we’ll move on to the next few aspects of tank-building shortly.

As with the CTF and DM/TDM chapters, I hope that you have learnt something new and valuable, and that this guide has already helped you become a better tanker. If it hasn’t worry not! There’s still a few pages to go…

 

Paints

Before we move on, I would like to implore you not to take this section carelessly. Paints can play a vital role in battles, especially for CTF. Taking along the watercolour paint while stealing a flag won’t exactly increase your chances of going unnoticed.

Standing out

This is probably for the minority of you; standing out with a paint. There could be a few reasons for your choice, be it to serve as a distraction, to look cool or to show off a new paint you spent months to get.

Since the idea here is to contrast so as to stand out, you’ll need a paint that contrasts with light brown and white. If you bothered to check up the colour wheel, you should have a good idea what to expect. If you didn’t, just read on.

 

NANO: price 350 000 crystals, unlocks at marshal

A good choice. The light blue would certainly stand out, but it’s more effective on the summer mode. With winter, where everything is white it won’t stand out that much. This paint is certainly expensive, but it is really eye-catching and has no end of coolness. One problem is that it has a relatively high unlock rank.

 

NEURON: price 13.99 €, unlocks at recruit

The light and dark colours here really contrasts and it’s also seriously cool. Downside? Costs real money, but that won’t be a problem if you invest in Tanki, right? Plus, it unlocks at recruit rank, so you can buy the paint straight away.

 

MINT: price 19.99 €, unlocks at recruit

More expensive compared to neuron, with a 6 € increase in money, but much, much cooler in my opinion. In fact, I think it’s one of the best paints in the game in terms of design, especially the little crisscross patterning. It also has a very balanced shade of green, light enough but not too light that it becomes a bit whitish – the perfect shade!

 

ELECTRA: price 50 000 crystals, unlocks at third lieutenant

What makes this paint really stand out is those jagged bolts of lightning against a dark red background, a contrast not commonly seen. This paint is also a good choice for the money-saver; it is much cheaper compared to the other lieutenant paints.

 

CHERRY: price 50 000 crystals, unlocks at brigadier

Another cool paint. And no, unlike what you may think, it doesn’t actually have cherry drawings on the paint, it more of resembles red wavy plates overlapping each other with small gaps in between where natural shadows form. One REALLY big reason to buy this paint, though, is the insane price of 50 000 crystals, considering it is a brigadier-ranked paint.

One small note before we move on: alright, if you are talking about showing off, ignore all the paints above and just get the golden star paint. That’s bound to get a few admiring gasps from the other players!

Camouflage

Now we have camouflage, i.e. blending in with the surroundings. A few reasons you might want to blend in might be to steal the flag unnoticed or tag along with someone and heal them undercover. As you can see, camouflage is mostly for the sniper or healer, since these two roles would not do good if they stood out.

Anyway, I’m sure all of you are eager to know the 5 paints that have made it into my list, so without further ado, let us welcome them into the spotlight!

 

TUNDRA: price 5 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

This was one of the original paints in the game, designed especially for camouflage in certain maps, with a light brown colour and shades of green entwined in it.

This may not be the perfect blend, but it certainly would do the job for a sniper. It’s also a good starting paint before you move on to buy better ones, given its early unlock rank.

 

SANDSTONE: price 6 000 crystals, unlocks at first lieutenant

If you have ever seen this paint, you probably would have expected it to make its way into this list. It’s the perfect blend of colours – light brown with tinges of dark brown speckles. It’s a must equip when you are on a daring mission to steal the flag and bring victory to your team. It’s also a pretty awesome paint in terms of design, too.

 

BLACKSMITH: price 225 000 crystals, unlocks at major

This paint is actually white, with grey lines running along it, thus it is more suited for winter battles. It’ll probably stand out quite a bit in summer battles. The grey lines could be nuisance when you are trying to creep up onto an enemy, but they’re not that noticeable from far range.

 

HIVE: price 120 000 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

It’s not as good a camouflage as the other 4, that’s for definite, what with it being a bit more orangey-coloured than light brown, but at least it still allows some blending. I would suggest sandstone over it, though; the former is much cheaper and cooler.

 

ROCK: price 15 000 crystals, unlocks at field marshal

Considering the rank, this is one extremely cheap paint, any field marshal should buy it even if just for the sake of expanding your arsenal of paints.

This paint also offers really good blending; I would say it’s only second to sandstone. It’s also a cool paint to have; it’s a must-use if you want your tank to have that rugged, veteran look.

 

Modules

Modules probably do not play a very obvious role at first, but in the long run, they could save you many rage quits due to getting killed.

Overally, you’re gonna want to have a protection against thunder, smoky, Vulcan, twins and ricochet. You might also consider some close-range protection if you are stealing flags or guarding the base.

LGC (legacy) modules

DESERT: price 4500 crystals, unlocks at warrant 2

Smoky 5%

Twins 5%

Ricochet 28%

Hammer 10%

Here they mainly provide protection from ricochet and hammer, and also slightly from smoky and twins as an added bonus. It’s not a bad module considering the price and unlock rank.

VORTEX: price 13 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

Thunder 10%

Ricochet 10%

Vulcan 10%

A great choice. Even yet good protection from three turrets, all of which can be found in Atra commonly.

FRACTURE: price 30 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 5

Smoky 10%

Railgun 20%

Vulcan 12%

Decent and all-round protection, though I would recommend the vortex LGC module over this. The railgun protection is really insane, though.

LOAM: price 6 500 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant colonel

Firebird 36%

Thunder 10%

Freeze 10%

Ricochet 10%

This is recommended for the flag-stealer – the short-medium range protection is covered here, especially the firebird protection. It also comes with a very good price considering it’s one of the rare 4-protection modules.

AFRICA: price 400 000 crystals, unlocks at generalissimo

Twins 25%

Thunder 25%

Hammer 20%

Vulcan 30%

Dang. Now we talk business. 4 protections, all turrets covered are commonly found in Atra, average of 25% protection, 38% when fully MU’ed? *shakes head* this one is fantastic. In fact, if you’re talking about mid-range protection, look no further than this, it’s the best possible LGC module for that.

Single modules Price: M0 – 1000 crystals, M1 – 2000 crystals, M2 – 20 000 crystals, M3 – 50 000 crystals

1.      The FOX series

This one is particularly recommended for stealing the flag, since you’ll be going up close with the enemies.

FOX S-A firebird

FOX S-B freeze

FOX S-C Isida

2.      The DOLPHIN series

This one is simpler – it’s for all the general weapons in Atra.

DOLPHIN S-A smoky

DOLPHIN S-B thunder

DOLPHIN S-C Vulcan

Double modules Price: M0 – 2500 crystals, M1 – 15 000 crystals, M2 – 50 000 crystals, M3 – 150 000 crystals

1.      The PANTHER series

You can mainly find protection from twins and smoky here, both of which can also be commonly found.

PHANTER D-A twins hammer

PHANTER D-B smoky twins

PHANTER D-C ricochet twins

Triple modules Price: M0 – 50 000 crystals, M1 – 30 000 crystals, M2 – 100 000 crystals, M3 – 250 000 crystals

1.      The SHARK series

The triple modules, at last! Personally, I think they are a bit expensive, but after all they are the ultimate STD modules. You’ll find that the protection in the shark series are mainly from thunder and Vulcan, which is good. I do not recommend shark T-A, though, mainly because of the (almost) redundant rail and shaft.

SHARK T-A railgun shaft Vulcan

SHARK T-B smoky railgun Vulcan

SHARK T-C smoky Isida thunder

SHARK T-D twins thunder Vulcan

SHARK T-E Isida Vulcan thunder

SHARK T-F smoky Vulcan thunder

Spectrum modules

Do I need to explain myself here? The spectrum modules, or rare modules as they call it in the wiki, are modules with universal protection against all turrets and mines. If you just happen to have this module, USE IT. DON’T HESITATE. Unfortunately, you’ll have to have the champion, silver, bronze, acid or helper paint to get the spectrum module, so… not likely.

SPECTRUM M-A – 25%

SPECTRUM M-B – 20%

SPECTRUM M-C – 15%

LORD PAINT SPECTRUM MODULE – 50%

DEVIL PAINT SPECTRUM MODULE – 98%

(Ignore the last two, they’re redundant, unless you just happen to be sidlob or Godmode_On. In which case, thank you, I’m very proud that you put aside time to view my humble guide.)

 

Product kits

As anyone should know, product kits offer the nest deals in the Tanki shop, with the total of up to 80% off the price if you bought the items individually, for example, the Osaka kit. It is also handy that the combos in product kits are the often-used and popular one, so there’s probably a kit that suits you. In fact, there are 89 tank kits in the game, 108 if including the discontinued ones.

Attacking/Hit-and-Running

HOOLIGAN (HORNET M1/SMOKY M1): price 26 300 crystals, unlocks at master sergeant

CORSAIR (VIKING M1/TWINS M1): price 57 540 crystals, unlocks at sergeant major

STINGER (HORNET M2/ISIDA M2): price 120 825 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

PITBULL (HUNTER M2/HAMMER M2): price 230 600 crystals, unlocks at third lieutenant

PROMETHEUS (HUNTER M3/FIREBIRD M3): price 472 860 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

MAN-O-WAR (HORNET M3/ THUNDER M3): price 367 225 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

Defending/Camping

EXTERMINATOR (DICTATOR M1/Vulcan M1): price 58 200 crystals, unlocks at first sergeant

MOUNTAIN (MAMMOTH M2/Vulcan M2): price 169 540 crystals, unlocks at second lieutenant.

ANNIHILIATOR (VIKING M2/ THUNDER M2): price 253 220 crystals, unlocks at first lieutenant

MAESTRO (DICTATOR M3/RICOCHET M3): price 458 340 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

GUARDIAN (TITAN M3/SMOKY M3): price 471 690 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

Conclusion

And with the last section, I end this (very) long and detailed guide (please tell me you didn’t fall asleep halfway).  Through this guide, I hope that you have been opened to the full capacity of fun that Atra, this humble map, can hold. It would be a pity if this map were to lay waste at the dark, forgotten parts of Tanki Online...

I hope too that you have enjoyed reading this map guide. Do feel free to comment on it and help me improve!

And that’s it, guys! Have fun, and good luck in your future battling!

 

-lordtanker9000

here is my proof of creation:

WOW. just fix the images and you gonna win!

 

 

Man this is something i cant write :(

[GeeVuh 1,647]

i will publish this in AWC when this contest ends. in the meantime, enjoy! :)

Welcome, and thank you for taking off time to read my guide on Atra! This guide will cover just about everything there is to, from battle formations to mining spots… so let’s read on!

 

Statistics

Length: 27 props

(135 meters)

 

Width: 14 props

(70 meters)

 

Surface area: 378 props

(9450 m²)

 

Unlock rank: Warrant 1

 

Player limit: 10, 5v5

 

Modes: CTF, DM, TDM, CP

 

Overall stats

Size: 2/5 – one of the smaller maps

Features/graphics: 1/5 – a bit bland, not much interesting stuff

Parkour: 1/5 – meh. Not the map for parkourists, there’s nothing the conquer

Gameplay: 4/5 – an awesome map for any playing style

Navigation: 4/5 – quite easy to move around, just don’t fall off

Versatility: 5/5 – one of the most versatile maps. Any combo can excel here

 

A little history

Atra first appeared in Tanki on October 1, 2010. It was created by JIEHb, and unlike other mapmakers like DukePlatinum, this was his only map.

Atra was not always like the one we see now. There were previously two versions of Atra – Atra 1 and Atra 2. Atra 1 had only the upper ramps and two long pipes replacing the underpass of current-day Atra, while Atra 2 was more similar, but the notable differences are the straight grass route replaced by the underpass, only two ramps leading up to the centre and the absence of any fences. There was also a “secret” (alright to be honest it’s in broad daylight) room under one of the ramps. see below for the pictures, Atra 1 is on the left and Atra 2 the right.

These two maps were eventually merged together and the current Atra was born.

       

 

Overview

Atra is noticeably different from other maps. For one, it is inversely symmetrical, that is, if you chopped the map along the centre and rotated one piece 90 degrees you would get two identical pieces.

It is very common at the m0 and early m1 ranks, almost as popular as silence at warrant ranks, but after that it loses popularity and then disappears altogether, which I felt was a huge pity, since it offers such a dynamic gameplay because of the lack of hiding spots and the small size.

The most common mode here is CTF, and no wonder. Two bases connected by an almost straight route leading right towards each other? There’s a plethora of chances and ways to get the flag.

It can be really fun to play with in the normal modes, but I don’t suggest parkour here, unless doing barrel rolls in the sky is counted.

 

Map analysis

Blue base: where the blue team spawns

Red base: where the red team spawns

Upper ramps: the ramps that are the only means of accessing the centre, I have divided them into ramps 1,2,3 and 4

Centre: the highest point on the map, you can gain a 360 degree view here. It is also where most of the action takes place

Underpass: leads from blue base straight to red base and vice versa, making it a good escape route if you have the flag

 

CTF mode

At last, we move on the first mode available in Atra, CTF! It is the most commonly played mode, so it has the priority here. In CTF there are only 3 roles you can play: attack, defend and support. Briefly putting it…

Attack: focus on getting the flag

Defend: protecting your own flag and teammates

Support: shoot people randomly and assist in attack or defend when necessary

Defenders

For spots to camp at, I suggest the behind the two fences at the very back of the bases, you can peek through the hole when shooting and stay hidden the rest of the time. This place is also the most well-protected location on the map since there are only two exposed sides – the left and right, and even it will be very hard for the opponents to reach those sides.

Your role

-        To prevent any opponents from harming your teammates by shooting them down

-        To prevent opponents from reaching the flag

-        To kill any opponents who has taken the flag

-        To return the flag if necessary

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Shaft

Most of you probably expected this, the king of heavy hulls and the king of damage together into one tank. Although shaft is generally for the large maps, it works here too. Speed wouldn’t be a problem since you won’t be moving about much, so it’s safe to neglect speed here.

One small tip: when aiming the shaft, keep the target in view but hide the laser, i.e. if shooting at someone at opponent base, keep him in view but hide the laser behind the fence until fully charged, since if the opponent sees the laser he’ll definitely not remain a sitting duck.

 

2.      Mammoth-Freeze

Alas, the underrated mammy-freeze. This is often considered the worst combo, but I beg to differ. In fact, it works well – incredibly well – in Atra when defending.

When the enemy comes, just pop out of the shelter of the fence and blast him with freeze, slowing him down. After that, you can finish him off at your leisure. Easy-peasy. The only problem might be the opponent running away before you can get him, but this can be solved if you pop out slightly before he gets the flag. You can also buy the “high pressure pump” modification so that range can increase.

 

3.      Viking-Thunder

Another great combo. Viking isn’t the heaviest of hulls, but the little extra speed could help A LOT in flag returning after you kill the opponent, or another person can just snatch the flag.

Thunder is a good choice here because of the considerably high damage but quick reload. The only problem is the self-damage, but then, it’s not like the flag-stealer is going to come towards you after he snatches the flag, so no worries there. Even if he miraculously does, put a mine, blam.

 

4.      Dictator-Vulcan

I chose dictator here specially because of the high mount it has, which combined with the massive auto-aiming range of Vulcan allows the turret to reach the centre base even when on the base platform.

There are a few disadvantages though. Because of the high mount, Vulcan will not do much if shooting from the centre portion. Dictator is also considerably big allowing it to be shot more easily. Still, it can tank quite a few shots before failing.

 

5.      Hornet-Firebird

Yeah, yeah, I know. What the deal, man? Hornet’s armour totally sucks, why’d you still choose it? Well, the simple answer: more mobility. The speed is much needed when returning the flag, since, like I said for the Viking thunder part, you don’t want someone snatching the flag first before you can return it you also don’t want your own teammate returning the flag and getting the glory.  Plus, the low health can be compensated for by having a handy Isida with you.

Firebird makes it onto the mount since it has the highest dps in the whole game, one full bar can kill a mammoth, no questions asked. Especially if you’re dealing with a flag-stealer, since they generally have light hulls. Blast them with napalm and 2 seconds later, boom, their tanks blow up.

 

Protection

Coming to protection, I would suggest a protection from short ranged turrets paint, since your only true nemesis is a firebird/freeze/Isida who manages to get close.

I would also suggest protection from shaft. Unless the opponent is very close/ has pinpoint accuracy when aiming, only a shaft’s bullet can reach your tank.

Attackers

Ok! Now we move on to the section that most of you have been waiting for: attacking! My suggestion to defenders is to also read this article, since you would want to know how attackers… uh… attack.

Two small tips first: it’s a good idea to pick out any snipers first. A shaft could make a last second kill if not taken care of. Second tip, it’s not a good idea to go along. The gameplay can be very dynamic owing to the small map size, thus opponents would be spawning back at the base with lightning speed. It’s empty at first, you blink your eye… and poof, 3 firebirds are after you.

Your role

 

1.      To steal the flag and take it to your base

2.      To assist the flag-bearer by healing him (if you are an Isida), shooting down opponents and doing whatever will prevent the flag-bearer from getting harmed

3.      To capture the flag yourself if the initial flag-bearer dies in the process

 

Attack routes (for red teams it is the same)

(The pale blue indicates a path underneath above props)

There are three paths here, which I will divide into paths 1, 2 and 3. Path 1 is the one that leads up upper ramp 1 and down upper ramp 2, path 2 goes through the underpass and path 3 goes up upper ramp 3, across the centre and merges with path 1

 

Path 1: a decently quick route. The path offers good protection until you go down ramp 2, and also allows you to pick up double armour and speed boost, but if you are a light hull, make sure you don’t fall off the map!

Path 2: the fastest possible route, and almost perpetual protection offered, at least if you are a small tank. You can pick up a DD and DA here, and equip a speed boost and your tank will be unstoppable.

Path 3: it is the slowest route amongst the 3, but allows you to pick up all the supplies. Recommended to use a hunter or Viking here.

 

Escape routes (for red team it is the same)

(The pale blue indicates a path underneath above props)

Again, three escape means. Path 1 goes up upper ramp 2, down upper ramp 1, path 2 is the underpass, and path 3 up upper ramp 4 and down upper ramp 3.

 

Path 1: the attack route, just reversed. It’s good for light hulls since it’s just a short journey, and you can also pick up a repair box here so no worries up dying halfway (unless, of course, your hand slips and you fall into the void…)

Path 2: also an attack route, and also the best escape route in my opinion. Not much to say here, refer to path 2 of the attack routes

Path 3: it is pretty similar to path 1, with a few exceptions. It is slightly more sheltered because there is a total of 3 fences along the route, compared to 1 for path 1. You can also pick up the RB quicker, so less danger of dying.

Suggested equipment

1.      Wasp-Firebird

Here, the firebird is handy for blasting all the enemies as you reach the base and run off with the precious flag. Due to the wasp’s low (VERY LOW) armour, make sure you are flanked or have an Isida with you.

A very important note: this combo is only for the very skilled at driving. If you are the type that’s used to mammoths, don’t use this combo. Seriously, don’t. fastest hull in the game + 90 degrees sudden route turns + possible speed boost + driving backwards in order to shoot at enemies = 99.99% chance off falling off the map. So, remember my warning.

 

2.      Viking-Twins

Viking has moderate speed but armour good enough to last you at least halfway, so it makes it into the suggested equipment. Still, this is one versatile hull, so you’ll probably see it a lot.

Twins is the best possible choice here. It’s deadly up close, and has insane knockback so you might possibly knock off the aim of a few opponents. It is also better than fire/freeze/Isida in the sense that it is medium-ranged, thus you can still injure opponents while running for your life.

 

3.      Hornet-Isida

A great combo for CTF, especially when you are stealing the flag. Isida’s self-heal really helps out here, even if it got nerfed in the previous updates.

Once again, due to the low health that hornet has, it’s a good idea to have repair box on standby, or you can make friends with another Isida. The underpass is also the best escape route here because of the shelter and also the quick escape it provides.

 

4.      Dictator-Railgun

Ah, the nostalgia. This combo was once feared as the deadliest of combos, and is still popular now. This beauty can slice, multi-kill, tank shots, auto-aim, distract, knock off shots and basically be the epitome of awesomeness. In fact, this combo is also good as a flank or meat shield, which could come in handy.

Dictator’s unique mount helps if you are escaping through the underpass, and also allows you to shoot over the fences through the little hole. If you pick up a double damage and add in a repair box, you’re invincible, no questions asked.

The only pesky people here are the short-rangers, but since they are normally mounted on a light hull, a mine will do the trick.

 

5.      Hunter-Hammer

(A little backstory, skip this part if you are in a hurry) a tank I remember very well from a player I once met, by the name of ‘Only_Hunter_Hammer’, and true enough, that was his main combo. He came in about 5 minutes into the match, and… man. He trashed my team, totally trashed it with more than 10 flag captures, and he wasn’t even a drugger. This is perhaps how this combo made it into the list.

Hammer is devastating up close, obviously, especially with the slugger modification, though it’s not recommended to use the mod here as the splash could be useful if the opponents are congregated at the base. Any wasps or hornets can be easily taken care of, and for the heavier hulls… hunter should be able to hold on long enough.

Attack formations

Here I add a few attack formations that are deathly effective if carried out correctly. Unfortunately, the real difficult part wouldn’t be the execution of the formation but rather getting your teammates to listen to you…

 

Formation 1: x1 wasp-firebird + x1 wasp-isida + x2 viking-railgun

The wasp- firebird goes to the base, preferably from the upper ramps, and takes the flag, while the Isida heals the firebird. The Vikings can stay at the fences at the centre and shoot off any nuisances. This is one destructive pair, considering that two railguns can take out all but the heaviest hulls, and if JUST ONE OF THEM JUST SO HAPPEN TO BE DRUGGING… nothing can survive.

 

Formation 2: Mammoth-Firebird + (hidden in mammoth) Hornet-Isida

Since you have titanic armour, your only nemesis is basically those short range turrets, so a firebird against firebird would be the best deal here.

When the mammoth dies or needs help, the hornet can move out and take the flag to complete the mission, or heal the mammoth. The main advantage of this combo is that it only requires two people, but can potentially be one of the most effective attack formations out there.

 

Formation 3: x2 Mammoth-Twins + x1 Hunter-Hammer

A slightly more complex strategy here; the mammoths will first attack from two sides, while the hunter sneaks in through the underpass and takes the flag unnoticed (hopefully). The mammoths can distract the rest of the opponents long enough to prevent the hunter from dying until the flag is successfully captured. They can also block anyone who goes after the hunter – with mammoth’s mammoth size it’s not hard (pun intended)

Support

Finally we come to support, my personal playing style! It is also in my opinion the most fun – you spent the battle shooting down people and making them rage.

Your role

1.      To shoot down opponents in your vicinity -  as much as you please

2.      To assist in the defence or attack if necessary

There, simple right? To put it in other words, you’re something like a midfielder, the less important but most versatile position.

Good camping locations

One note: please read this part if you generally stay in one place while supporting, if you are more of a hit-and-runner, just skip it, it’s a waste of time to read this part, the only small thing you can learn is where you can find some of your supporting teammates. Still, if you have time, nothing too bad will happen even if you read this, right?

(the grey location is on the underpass, behind the pipe)

 

Location 1: a good spot – you can reach most of the map from here, all but two of the upper ramps, ramp 2 and 4. This position is mostly defence-based, considering it is right at the base, but with a long range weapon you can shoot at the enemy base too.

Location 2: although minimal shielding is provided, this is easily the best spot. From here you can have a view of the whole map, safe a section of the underpass. It is suggested to stay behind the fence until you shoot; if you can shoot the enemy, it means they can too.

Location 3: this is a good location if you have dictator to shoot over the fences. Unfortunately with flat hulls this place will only work on defence, but you can deter enemies from escaping with the flag at this position.

Location 4: this location is almost the same as 2, so not much to say here. Basically, it offers more protection compared to 2, but compromises a bit of the map view.

Suggested equipment

1.      Hornet-Firebird

This one is strictly for the runner, the light hull ensures that. If you are talking about strategy, I would suggest ridding any stray opponents first, then running to the enemy base like a kamikaze and blast everyone. Get a double damage and you’ll rack up some supermassive kills, for the small price of a few deaths.

One very important note: unless you are in the process of killing someone, KEEP MOVING. Hornet is a considerably fragile hull, second only to wasp. You stay still, you die. Simple.

 

2.      Viking-Thunder

Aha! Now we talk business; the versatile Viking-thunder, and after all, being a supporter is all about being versatile, right?

This tank is works best at midfield, meaning, around spots 2 and 4. This tank also has the potential to rack up some amazing kills if paired with a double damage, especially with the splash damage that could earn you multi-kills.

 

3.      Titan-Smoky

An ugly combo at the very least, but it’s a beast. Who cares if you’re ugly when you are dominating the map and bringing glory to your team?

I would suggest using this combo more on the defence side, so spot 1 would be the best place for you, but you could always go to the other spots if you find they work more for you. It’s not recommended to be focused on supporting the attack, or titan’s heavy hull would really be wasted.

 

4.      Viking-Vulcan

And… again Viking comes back thanks to its supreme versatility. This combo is suited for the underpass/spot 4 the most. Pop out of shelter, drill someone down and then go back to safety. If you can pop out at the exact right moments, you’ll be virtually untouchable.

Go for the lighter hulls, though, like wasp, hornet and hunter, or you’ll spend ages drilling down a mammoth and by the time you finish someone’s taken care of you.

Summary

And after ages of reading (and getting lots of useful information) we wrap up the CTF chapter, and shortly we’ll move on to the Deathmatch chapter. On an overall look, CTF can be very fun or very annoying, depending on whether you are dominating or getting dominated, though after reading this guide I hope it will be the former! If you see an Atra CTF, go in, there’s bound to be lots of fun!

 

DM and TDM mode

Deathmatch. The second-most commonly played mode in Atra, the love of every crystal-hoarder, and the first most commonly played overall with a 46% of battles made being DM. Team Deathmatch, not as popular as his brother game mode but still fun nonetheless.

Both of these game modes can actually also be very fun to play in, especially being a pro and making everyone rage ;) thus far, the Atra I’ve known has unfailingly been divided into two types of players, as I like to call them: campers and runners, or in other words the heavy and light hulls.

This section was originally fully Deathmatch, but I realised that many things in TDM were similar thus I merged the two sections together.

Campers

Generally here is the gameplay for you: you stay at one place, moving only when necessary, and snipe off people in the vicinity one-by-one. The most effective combo here would be a heavy hull and a medium-range, fast reload turret, more on that in the suggested equipment section. The only weakness is the short-rangers (again!) but (again!) mining comes in handy.

Good camping locations

Refer to the “good camping locations” section in support, CTF. You’ll find that most of what is written there also applies to Deathmatch, since CTF support is just shooting down everybody which is the same logic in DM. Just watch out for all sides.

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Vulcan

A good combo for any camper, in any map, except for the smallest of them, such as duel. Provided your range of view is very wide, once you have picked out an unfortunate victim, they have no escape.

In fact, this is also a smart combo. Get the hull with the most darned insane armour in the whole game, and put on it a turret with the most darned fastest reload in the whole game, and you get this one awesome combo. The overheating is no problem, mammoth’s armour has taken care of that.

 

2.      Dictator-Ricochet

Here I would suggest spots 1 and 3, here 2 is not a good choice as dictator’s mount prevents you from reaching the bases, but it helps when you are at one of the bases and want to hit someone in the centre without depending on auto-aiming.

Another advantage of using this combo is that you don’t need to worry about any short-rangers. Anyone stupid enough to actually go up to a ricochet will find themselves getting blown sky-high.

 

3.      Titan-Smoky

Did I say that this was good in CTF? Well, lemme tell you something: this combo is downright legendary in Deathmatch. The build is absolutely flawless – amazing armour, rapid fire rate, high damage, especially at the higher ranks, critical hits, good range, huge impact force – what a camper needs, this thing has it

In fact, if you manage to get your hands on a DD box or decide to become a drugger, you’ll easily blast everyone into oblivion, no doubt about that.

 

4.      Viking-Vulcan

Once you start playing with this, you’ll realise the strategy is actually very similar to Mammy-Vulcan. The only major difference is that you’ll be able to move around more, so you should. Kill a few people and change a location, repeat. If you don’t move, and you are also the dominator of the map, people are going to target you.

I dunno why people don’t target you that much if you move though

Runners

Now we bring in the next chapter in the DM series: runners. If you don’t know what that means, it’s basically people who use the hit-and run tactic; find a victim, rush up to him, kill him and repeat again. This strategy can be very effective if you are able to do one thing; stay out of fire. Always be subtle, hiding behind ramps but staying on the move.

 

Running paths

Route 1: this is by far the safest path, since it goes through the underpass. The main idea is to kill any campers at one base, when people start noticing you, move on through the underpass to the other base.

Route 2: this is potentially the most rewarding route, covering almost the entire map. Unfortunately this is also the most dangerous, especially as you cross the centre. Do not stray at the top for too long.

Route 3: as you can see, this path goes one big circle around the map, and is very similar to path 2. It is slightly safer, though, since you won’t be crossing the centre.

Of course, by recommending these paths it does not mean you should follow these routes exactly. If there is an easy kill or a supply box close to you, by all means go off your path and get it. You’re not a synchronised robot.

 

Suggested equipment

1.      Hornet-Firebird

A combo seen by many of you, hornet paired with firebird is quite a versatile combo in small maps. Hornet’s speed and firebird’s high damage makes this a combo not to be underestimated. Don’t go face to face with other tanks though. Make sure you have the element of surprise.

 

2.      Hunter-Twins

Hunter is generally classified a medium hull, but since twins is a medium range weapon, there’s less need to move around, thus you can invest a bit more in armour and neglect a bit of speed.

Try to get as close as possible, though, since twin’s damage will decrease over distance, it won’t have much of an effect from far-range.

 

3.      Wasp-Freeze

This combo is best against the slow turret turners, like railgun or Vulcan (when shooting). Adding on with the freeze, it’ll be very easy to stay out of the line of fire by running circles around the opponent. Since wasp is so fragile, I would suggest path 1, which provides the most protection.

 

4.      Hunter-Hammer

H-H is back (you might remember it from the CTF attackers section)! Decent speed and armour, and a high damage turret. I would recommend you going for the slugger modification to deal more damage up close. The spread isn’t very useful in a typical Atra DM match.

 

5.      Hornet-Ricochet

In case you are allergic to hornet firebird for some reason, use this combo. It can whiz around the map and blow everyone up with rico’s bullets (they’re awesome up-close) all the while having a swag look.

Summary

As we end this (rather short compared to CTF) chapter, I would like to thank you for bearing with me. In my view, this part was not as detailed as the rest, but there is still a lot of information in it, so hopefully your knowledge of tanki has increased even more!

Ok, you’re probably impatient to finish the guide. So here we go… the CP CHAPTER!

 

CP mode

 

At last we come to the last game mode – control points! Although they are not as common as DM or CTF, it is nevertheless fun to play in, and offers an equally dynamic gameplay. After all, for such a small map, it contains an amazing 5 CP’s! So… here we go guys!

Taking points

Here is the general strategy: at the start, go directly for points 2 or 4 depending on your team side. These are the closest to the bases and also the most protected, thus should be the easiest to capture. Afterwards focus on point 1,3 and 5 at the top, and just leave one person to hold point 2/4.

If a point is taken by the other team, never go along. Chances are you’ll get killed before you can take the point or even neutralize it. Taking a friendly buddy along can help you capture the point faster and also get yourself flanked.

Your role

1.      To capture a point that is neutral

2.      To neutralize a point that is controlled by the opponent team

3.      To assist any teammate in capturing a point by capturing it with him or killing opponents that threaten his safety

 

A closer look at the points

Point 1/5: the generally neutral point, but point 1 would normally be captured by the blue team and 5 vice versa, as the fences offer some protection.

Point 2/4: the closest points to the base. Not much battling happens here, since it is so close to the base and also very sheltered. Juts one tank should be able to take and hold the point.

Point 3: where the heat of the battle takes place, and often the pint that determines the winning team of a battle as this is the centremost thus the most equal poin on the map, meaning that its location is not advantageous to any of the teams. When you are capturing the point, DO NOT stay right on top of the point; everyone will be able to see you.

Suggested equipment

Take note that the equipment specified here is mainly for capturing the point, not holding it as well. Once you capture a point, retreat and capture other points. Leave the captured points to the defenders.

 

1.      Hunter-Ricochet

A mix of a stable high and decently high-damaged turret results in this combo. It might not be able to hold if a mammoth-firebird comes chugging along, but it should ward off the majority of opponents long enough to get the

point.

 

2.      Viking-Smoky

Compared to the previous combo, I traded off a bit of hunter’s speed for Viking’s noticeably higher armour, arguably a wise decision. You may be less mobile thus less efficient, but you have a higher chance of capturing the point you are concentrated on.

Smoky can also deal quite a bit of damage, especially at closer range and small maps such as Atra.

 

3.      Hornet-Vulcan

Believe me, this combo works, and is also versatile since you can quickly move from one point to another and flank others along the way if another of your teammates are capturing a point. you should get an Isida to heal you as you go, though.

The Vulcan go also be replaced with the newest turret, striker. Atra is a small map thus the low movement speed of the projectiles are not really a problem. Striker in sniping mode is devastating, so you probably don’t need to worry about the short-rangers.

 

4.      Hunter-Hammer

No, I am not bias to this combo, it is quite effective. Hammer can shoot at mid-range as well as short range, so you can deal with all but the far-rangers while capturing a point. As for the snipers… stay away from them, give Buddha some money and pray that he will prevent any of the railguns from spotting you.

 

5.      Titan-Twins

The oddball here, considering it is the only heavy hull you’ll find on the list, but that makes it all the more an all-rounder as you can both capture and hold a point effectively. Handy for going for points 2 and 4, but not good if you find that the points alliances keep changing from blue to red to blue. In that case, go with combo 3.

Defending

As you read this article, you’ll realise that CP defending is not really different from CTF defending. It’s just that you have to defend a different thing, namely a point instead of a flag, so (unfortunately or fortunately depending on your POV) I will not make this part too long.

Your role

1.      To ensure that no opponents neutralize or capture a point your team is controlling

2.      To shoot and kill an opponent who is harming a teammate who is capturing a point

3.      To notify the designated people of any neutral points available for capture, or any points controlled by the opponent team that has been left alone.

Defending spots (for red base it is reversed)

The spots can vary according to the point that you are defending, but here I show some of the more general and versatile ones.

 

Spot 1: a really good spot, as is the same for CTF. You have full view of spots 1 and 3, and partial view of spot 2. You’ll also be able to kill any opponents when they spawn at the base. They might get mad and swear vengeance on you, though.

Spot 2: not very different from spot 1, but it sacrifices a bit of safety for more view of spot 2 and 5. Handy if you are the one assigned to protect spot 2. I would suggest you use dictator so that you can fire at the centre area too.

Spot 3: a relatively exposed place, so you should put on a mammoth before venturing here. It generally protects spot 1, but you’ll have partial view of spots 2, 3 and 5 too.

Spot 4: this spot is simply spot 3, with the statistics reversed; the main point being protected becomes 5 instead of 1.

Spot 5: a rather exposed spot, but the view is well worth it. You’ll have direct contact with spot 3, thus will be able to protect it more effectively, and will be able to see spots 1 and 5. The enemies will not be able to shoot you on upper ramps 2, 4, the underpass and the enemy base.

Suggested equipment

1.      Mammoth-Twins

It’s not a bad combo, the proof being its frequent appearance in product kits, for example the destroyer kit. I also encounter at least one of these fellas in my everyday battles. Why is so good at CP defending is due to twin’s deadly close-range damage.

 

2.      Titan-Ricochet

Also a popular and reasonably impressive combo to behold, Titan-Rico is in fact not all that different from Mammy-Twins, except for the (slightly) increased speed and more compact  bullets, meaning increased damage but longer reload.

Mammy-Twins still beats this combo in terms of looks, though just my personal opinion

 

3.      Dictator-Thunder

Owing to thunder’s splash damage, I would not suggest you protect a point by staying right beside it; instead protect it from a distance, i.e spots 1 and 2 in the defending spots section.

Thunder’s splash damage could help out a lot – often I see people crowding around points they control, and thunder can take them out in one fell swoop.

 

4.      Dictator-Hammer

Opposite to the point before this, you would want to get as close to the point as possible, since hammer’s damage decreases noticeably over distance. You’ll also not be able to fire the full power of your hammer on anyone idiotic enough to come alone. Simply: stay away, no damage on opponent. Get close, punish him thoroughly.

Summary

That was short, wasn’t it? Now we’ve finished all 4 of the game mode chapters, we’ll move on to the next few aspects of tank-building shortly.

As with the CTF and DM/TDM chapters, I hope that you have learnt something new and valuable, and that this guide has already helped you become a better tanker. If it hasn’t worry not! There’s still a few pages to go…

 

Paints

Before we move on, I would like to implore you not to take this section carelessly. Paints can play a vital role in battles, especially for CTF. Taking along the watercolour paint while stealing a flag won’t exactly increase your chances of going unnoticed.

Standing out

This is probably for the minority of you; standing out with a paint. There could be a few reasons for your choice, be it to serve as a distraction, to look cool or to show off a new paint you spent months to get.

Since the idea here is to contrast so as to stand out, you’ll need a paint that contrasts with light brown and white. If you bothered to check up the colour wheel, you should have a good idea what to expect. If you didn’t, just read on.

 

NANO: price 350 000 crystals, unlocks at marshal

A good choice. The light blue would certainly stand out, but it’s more effective on the summer mode. With winter, where everything is white it won’t stand out that much. This paint is certainly expensive, but it is really eye-catching and has no end of coolness. One problem is that it has a relatively high unlock rank.

 

NEURON: price 13.99 €, unlocks at recruit

The light and dark colours here really contrasts and it’s also seriously cool. Downside? Costs real money, but that won’t be a problem if you invest in Tanki, right? Plus, it unlocks at recruit rank, so you can buy the paint straight away.

 

MINT: price 19.99 €, unlocks at recruit

More expensive compared to neuron, with a 6 € increase in money, but much, much cooler in my opinion. In fact, I think it’s one of the best paints in the game in terms of design, especially the little crisscross patterning. It also has a very balanced shade of green, light enough but not too light that it becomes a bit whitish – the perfect shade!

 

ELECTRA: price 50 000 crystals, unlocks at third lieutenant

What makes this paint really stand out is those jagged bolts of lightning against a dark red background, a contrast not commonly seen. This paint is also a good choice for the money-saver; it is much cheaper compared to the other lieutenant paints.

 

CHERRY: price 50 000 crystals, unlocks at brigadier

Another cool paint. And no, unlike what you may think, it doesn’t actually have cherry drawings on the paint, it more of resembles red wavy plates overlapping each other with small gaps in between where natural shadows form. One REALLY big reason to buy this paint, though, is the insane price of 50 000 crystals, considering it is a brigadier-ranked paint.

One small note before we move on: alright, if you are talking about showing off, ignore all the paints above and just get the golden star paint. That’s bound to get a few admiring gasps from the other players!

Camouflage

Now we have camouflage, i.e. blending in with the surroundings. A few reasons you might want to blend in might be to steal the flag unnoticed or tag along with someone and heal them undercover. As you can see, camouflage is mostly for the sniper or healer, since these two roles would not do good if they stood out.

Anyway, I’m sure all of you are eager to know the 5 paints that have made it into my list, so without further ado, let us welcome them into the spotlight!

 

TUNDRA: price 5 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

This was one of the original paints in the game, designed especially for camouflage in certain maps, with a light brown colour and shades of green entwined in it.

This may not be the perfect blend, but it certainly would do the job for a sniper. It’s also a good starting paint before you move on to buy better ones, given its early unlock rank.

 

SANDSTONE: price 6 000 crystals, unlocks at first lieutenant

If you have ever seen this paint, you probably would have expected it to make its way into this list. It’s the perfect blend of colours – light brown with tinges of dark brown speckles. It’s a must equip when you are on a daring mission to steal the flag and bring victory to your team. It’s also a pretty awesome paint in terms of design, too.

 

BLACKSMITH: price 225 000 crystals, unlocks at major

This paint is actually white, with grey lines running along it, thus it is more suited for winter battles. It’ll probably stand out quite a bit in summer battles. The grey lines could be nuisance when you are trying to creep up onto an enemy, but they’re not that noticeable from far range.

 

HIVE: price 120 000 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

It’s not as good a camouflage as the other 4, that’s for definite, what with it being a bit more orangey-coloured than light brown, but at least it still allows some blending. I would suggest sandstone over it, though; the former is much cheaper and cooler.

 

ROCK: price 15 000 crystals, unlocks at field marshal

Considering the rank, this is one extremely cheap paint, any field marshal should buy it even if just for the sake of expanding your arsenal of paints.

This paint also offers really good blending; I would say it’s only second to sandstone. It’s also a cool paint to have; it’s a must-use if you want your tank to have that rugged, veteran look.

 

Modules

Modules probably do not play a very obvious role at first, but in the long run, they could save you many rage quits due to getting killed.

Overally, you’re gonna want to have a protection against thunder, smoky, Vulcan, twins and ricochet. You might also consider some close-range protection if you are stealing flags or guarding the base.

LGC (legacy) modules

DESERT: price 4500 crystals, unlocks at warrant 2

Smoky 5%

Twins 5%

Ricochet 28%

Hammer 10%

Here they mainly provide protection from ricochet and hammer, and also slightly from smoky and twins as an added bonus. It’s not a bad module considering the price and unlock rank.

VORTEX: price 13 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

Thunder 10%

Ricochet 10%

Vulcan 10%

A great choice. Even yet good protection from three turrets, all of which can be found in Atra commonly.

FRACTURE: price 30 000 crystals, unlocks at warrant 5

Smoky 10%

Railgun 20%

Vulcan 12%

Decent and all-round protection, though I would recommend the vortex LGC module over this. The railgun protection is really insane, though.

LOAM: price 6 500 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant colonel

Firebird 36%

Thunder 10%

Freeze 10%

Ricochet 10%

This is recommended for the flag-stealer – the short-medium range protection is covered here, especially the firebird protection. It also comes with a very good price considering it’s one of the rare 4-protection modules.

AFRICA: price 400 000 crystals, unlocks at generalissimo

Twins 25%

Thunder 25%

Hammer 20%

Vulcan 30%

Dang. Now we talk business. 4 protections, all turrets covered are commonly found in Atra, average of 25% protection, 38% when fully MU’ed? *shakes head* this one is fantastic. In fact, if you’re talking about mid-range protection, look no further than this, it’s the best possible LGC module for that.

Single modules Price: M0 – 1000 crystals, M1 – 2000 crystals, M2 – 20 000 crystals, M3 – 50 000 crystals

1.      The FOX series

This one is particularly recommended for stealing the flag, since you’ll be going up close with the enemies.

FOX S-A firebird

FOX S-B freeze

FOX S-C Isida

2.      The DOLPHIN series

This one is simpler – it’s for all the general weapons in Atra.

DOLPHIN S-A smoky

DOLPHIN S-B thunder

DOLPHIN S-C Vulcan

Double modules Price: M0 – 2500 crystals, M1 – 15 000 crystals, M2 – 50 000 crystals, M3 – 150 000 crystals

1.      The PANTHER series

You can mainly find protection from twins and smoky here, both of which can also be commonly found.

PHANTER D-A twins hammer

PHANTER D-B smoky twins

PHANTER D-C ricochet twins

Triple modules Price: M0 – 50 000 crystals, M1 – 30 000 crystals, M2 – 100 000 crystals, M3 – 250 000 crystals

1.      The SHARK series

The triple modules, at last! Personally, I think they are a bit expensive, but after all they are the ultimate STD modules. You’ll find that the protection in the shark series are mainly from thunder and Vulcan, which is good. I do not recommend shark T-A, though, mainly because of the (almost) redundant rail and shaft.

SHARK T-A railgun shaft Vulcan

SHARK T-B smoky railgun Vulcan

SHARK T-C smoky Isida thunder

SHARK T-D twins thunder Vulcan

SHARK T-E Isida Vulcan thunder

SHARK T-F smoky Vulcan thunder

Spectrum modules

Do I need to explain myself here? The spectrum modules, or rare modules as they call it in the wiki, are modules with universal protection against all turrets and mines. If you just happen to have this module, USE IT. DON’T HESITATE. Unfortunately, you’ll have to have the champion, silver, bronze, acid or helper paint to get the spectrum module, so… not likely.

SPECTRUM M-A – 25%

SPECTRUM M-B – 20%

SPECTRUM M-C – 15%

LORD PAINT SPECTRUM MODULE – 50%

DEVIL PAINT SPECTRUM MODULE – 98%

(Ignore the last two, they’re redundant, unless you just happen to be sidlob or Godmode_On. In which case, thank you, I’m very proud that you put aside time to view my humble guide.)

 

Product kits

As anyone should know, product kits offer the nest deals in the Tanki shop, with the total of up to 80% off the price if you bought the items individually, for example, the Osaka kit. It is also handy that the combos in product kits are the often-used and popular one, so there’s probably a kit that suits you. In fact, there are 89 tank kits in the game, 108 if including the discontinued ones.

Attacking/Hit-and-Running

HOOLIGAN (HORNET M1/SMOKY M1): price 26 300 crystals, unlocks at master sergeant

CORSAIR (VIKING M1/TWINS M1): price 57 540 crystals, unlocks at sergeant major

STINGER (HORNET M2/ISIDA M2): price 120 825 crystals, unlocks at warrant 4

PITBULL (HUNTER M2/HAMMER M2): price 230 600 crystals, unlocks at third lieutenant

PROMETHEUS (HUNTER M3/FIREBIRD M3): price 472 860 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

MAN-O-WAR (HORNET M3/ THUNDER M3): price 367 225 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

Defending/Camping

EXTERMINATOR (DICTATOR M1/Vulcan M1): price 58 200 crystals, unlocks at first sergeant

MOUNTAIN (MAMMOTH M2/Vulcan M2): price 169 540 crystals, unlocks at second lieutenant.

ANNIHILIATOR (VIKING M2/ THUNDER M2): price 253 220 crystals, unlocks at first lieutenant

MAESTRO (DICTATOR M3/RICOCHET M3): price 458 340 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

GUARDIAN (TITAN M3/SMOKY M3): price 471 690 crystals, unlocks at lieutenant general

Conclusion

And with the last section, I end this (very) long and detailed guide (please tell me you didn’t fall asleep halfway).  Through this guide, I hope that you have been opened to the full capacity of fun that Atra, this humble map, can hold. It would be a pity if this map were to lay waste at the dark, forgotten parts of Tanki Online...

I hope too that you have enjoyed reading this map guide. Do feel free to comment on it and help me improve!

And that’s it, guys! Have fun, and good luck in your future battling!

 

-lordtanker9000

here is my proof of creation:

I'd rate this highly. However, a writer has to know when to stop, and how to stop. Additionally, your grammar is correct in some places, while incorrect in others. e.g. sometimes you capitalise "Shaft", while you don't capitalise "thunder". You can't have your grammar sporadic, or it makes it seem like an inexperienced writer wrote it without proofreading. 

 

 

Most of the images are Not found/Removed.

I PMed him about it on the 27th, but he hasn't been online since.

[Crip 4,735]

I'd rate this highly. However, a writer has to know when to stop, and how to stop. Additionally, your grammar is correct in some places, while incorrect in others. e.g. sometimes you capitalise "Shaft", while you don't capitalise "thunder". You can't have your grammar sporadic, or it makes it seem like an inexperienced writer wrote it without proofreading.

I would agree.

 

It also helps to have solid formatting, use a different font (such as Trebuchet MS), and vary the size of font for headings etc.

 

Anyway, I shall not comment further until I finish my Atra article...

[GeeVuh 1,647]

I would agree.

 

It also helps to have solid formatting, use a different font (such as Trebuchet MS), and vary the size of font for headings etc.

 

Anyway, I shall not comment further until I finish my Atra article...

You only have 2 days left... O_O

[Crip 4,735]

You only have 2 days left... O_O

It's ready to submit...

[GeeVuh 1,647]

It's ready to submit...

Wat. Just submit it then :o

[Jwimmer 2,835]

Map guide enclosed

 

Map Guide: Duality

 

Duality is, as its name suggests, a map best used to settle personal differences through a humble game of CTF. Most, if not all, games on this map will be xp/bp, with the “classic” settings used in most Sandbox games- everything off, no time limit, first to an odd number of flags. The map is semi-unconventional, so understanding it is key to you capturing the last flag.

The Layout

There are 4 main zones to this map, all of them being about the same size: the red base (red), the blue base (blue), the neutral zone (orange), and the platform (green). Both bases have a few obstacles, the neutral zone has some walls, and the raised platform has… nothing. Due to this, when in a duel, it is best to stay away from the platform. However, the tunnel underneath is very much a viable option to get to the other base. When you kill your enemy, it is the fastest route to capture. The one drawback is that it has no cover. Because of this, it is best to be used ONLY when the enemy is re spawning.

 

The neutral zone is incredibly important to gain control of. This often starts out with getting the first kill, and not letting the enemy use it as cover. If you can gain control of the neutral zone, you will restrict the enemy to their base only. The most technical part of the map is maneuvering the obstacles in the bases. Most obstacles have very small spaces between, making it easy to snag the corner of your tank and get stuck. If you maneuver smoothly and quickly around the obstacles, you will be well on your way to winning the duel.

 

CTF on duality

Duality is one of the few maps with “backwards CTF”. This means the enemy flag is in your base, and your flag is in the enemy’s. This element is what makes Duality stand out. Instead of needing a “there and back” trip to capture, all that needs to happen is the flag to be taken across the map for a point. If your enemy is not aware of this- use it to your advantage.

 

The Duel: Attacking

---

Part 1: Getting the first kill

As I hinted at earlier in this guide, the first kill will give a major advantage to winning the duel. However, there is more to it- you must also get the first capture. To begin, pick up the enemy flag without getting hit. This process is a great way to get a pop shot off- when going behind the wall where the flag is, shoot towards the other wall and through the tunnel (pictured). There is no harm in taking a shot like this, and a decent chance of a connection.

 

 

Once the flag has been picked up, it is time to move to the neutral zone. The risky side is the one with the building in the enemy base, with the safe side being the one with the crate/pipe. At this point, it will be a standoff. There is not really a way to describe how to do this part, but it is the nitty-gritty part of the duel. Previous experience should have given you the skill needed to pull this off successfully. If needed, there are a few more good spots for cover- the crate/pipe, the other side of the neutral zone, and your base- but only at a last resort.

 

 

Part 2: Returning and capturing

At this point, you have gotten the kill. You have probably taken damage by now, so speed is the name of the game. Immediately after you get the kill, rush over the return the flag. You will have 9 seconds before the enemy spawns into ghost mode, and 12 seconds before they materialize. If all goes well, this is plenty of time. This step is why it is best to not move to your base during the grind of the duel- it takes longer to return and capture.

 

Part 3: The spawn shot

This is the best way to take advantage of the “reverse CTF” layout of the map. Once you have captured the flag, you will be in the enemy base. Move out to a spot close to the base, but where you can see where the adversary will spawn. Get a shot on them at all costs now: a second before they materialize, hit fire. You will do damage without the risk of getting damaged first. Once you have shot them, let them kill you. You will respawn in your base, where you can take cover, and kill the already damaged enemy.

That process is basically one rotation of the duel. If you keep this up, the enemy will not have many chances to capture, and you should win the duel by a longshot.

 

 

The duel: Defensive play

In a perfect world, you could attack the whole duel, and not let the enemy capture once. However, that will rarely happen. At some point, you will have to be defensive.

 

The best cover at this point will be behind the building in your base. The tactic here is to pick up the flag and hide, while popping out to damage your opponent when possible. If your enemy is clearly going to win the standoff, drive towards their base as quickly as possible. Once they kill you, they will have to drive backwards to return, which could possibly buy you the time needed to make a good play and reject their capture.

 

The other modes

While most games on duality will be 1v1 XP/BP, all four game modes are a possibility. They are even more rarely seen than CTF games, so there is not much a need in elaborating on them. However, I will address equipment and general strategies.

 

Control Points

There are 3 points on the map. There are only two people per team, so point control changes quickly. The best thing to do here is control the platform. You can damage enemies at all three points this way, and should be able to keep a relatively strong hold on the game. The best equipment is, due to the small map size, a heavy hull paired with a medium or short range turret- smoky, ricochet, and twins are all good options. Fire and freeze may seem like a good choice, but the terrain makes it difficult to damage enemies that are not on the same level as you. Since the teams are only two people, the best team composition will be a heavy hull and medium turret and a medium hull with isida. The isida’s main job is to heal the heavy hull, while making small excursions to damage enemies and capture points, where needed. The heavy hull's sole purpose is to kill enemies and keep control of point A.

 

Deathmatch and Team Deathmatch

These two modes differ in only the number of players in the game. There are no points to hold, and no flags to capture.  Because of this, heavy hulls will be more sluggish than anything. The best hull in this case will be dictator. The height will allow it to damage enemies on the platform and on the main floor, while the health and speed will be a good combination on the small map. Turrets will be the same as in CP, with the addition of railgun as a viable option. The high damage will deal with medium tanks in 3 or 4 shots, and small hulls with just a few. Shooting and hiding will be the best option. As for team composition, it too will differ from CP. Instead of a heavy hull + medium turret and a medium hull + isida, it is best to have both medium hulls and medium or close-range turrets. This will provide optimal mobility, with a high damage per second.

This concludes the map guide. I hope you found it helpful, and will have fun on Duality

-@Jwimmer

 

 

Edited December 29, 2016 by Jwimmer

[GeeVuh 1,647]

 

Map guide enclosed

 

Map Guide: Duality

 

Duality is, as its name suggests, a map best used to settle personal differences through a humble game of CTF. Most, if not all, games on this map will be xp/bp, with the “classic” settings used in most Sandbox games- everything off, no time limit, first to an odd number of flags. The map is semi-unconventional, so understanding it is key to you capturing the last flag.

The Layout

There are 4 main zones to this map, all of them being about the same size: the red base (red), the blue base (blue), the neutral zone (orange), and the platform (green). Both bases have a few obstacles, the neutral zone has some walls, and the raised platform has… nothing. Due to this, when in a duel, it is best to stay away from the platform. However, the tunnel underneath is very much a viable option to get to the other base. When you kill your enemy, it is the fastest route to capture. The one drawback is that it has no cover. Because of this, it is best to be used ONLY when the enemy is re spawning.

 

The neutral zone is incredibly important to gain control of. This often starts out with getting the first kill, and not letting the enemy use it as cover. If you can gain control of the neutral zone, you will restrict the enemy to their base only. The most technical part of the map is maneuvering the obstacles in the bases. Most obstacles have very small spaces between, making it easy to snag the corner of your tank and get stuck. If you maneuver smoothly and quickly around the obstacles, you will be well on your way to winning the duel.

 

CTF on duality

Duality is one of the few maps with “backwards CTF”. This means the enemy flag is in your base, and your flag is in the enemy’s. This element is what makes Duality stand out. Instead of needing a “there and back” trip to capture, all that needs to happen is the flag to be taken across the map for a point. If your enemy is not aware of this- use it to your advantage.

 

The Duel: Attacking

---

Part 1: Getting the first kill

As I hinted at earlier in this guide, the first kill will give a major advantage to winning the duel. However, there is more to it- you must also get the first capture. To begin, pick up the enemy flag without getting hit. This process is a great way to get a pop shot off- when going behind the wall where the flag is, shoot towards the other wall and through the tunnel (pictured). There is no harm in taking a shot like this, and a decent chance of a connection.

 

 

Once the flag has been picked up, it is time to move to the neutral zone. The risky side is the one with the building in the enemy base, with the safe side being the one with the crate/pipe. At this point, it will be a standoff. There is not really a way to describe how to do this part, but it is the nitty-gritty part of the duel. Previous experience should have given you the skill needed to pull this off successfully. If needed, there are a few more good spots for cover- the crate/pipe, the other side of the neutral zone, and your base- but only at a last resort.

 

 

Part 2: Returning and capturing

At this point, you have gotten the kill. You have probably taken damage by now, so speed is the name of the game. Immediately after you get the kill, rush over the return the flag. You will have 9 seconds before the enemy spawns into ghost mode, and 12 seconds before the materialize. If all goes well, this is plenty of time. This step is why it is best to not move to your base during the grind of the duel- it takes longer to return and capture.

 

Part 3: The spawn shot

This is the best way to take advantage of the “reverse CTF” layout of the map. Once you have captured the flag, you will be in the enemy base. Move out to a spot close to the base, but where you can see where the adversary will spawn. Get a shot on them at all costs now: a second before they materialize, hit fire. You will do damage without the risk of getting damaged first. Once you have shot them, let them kill you. You will respawn in your base, where you can take cover, and kill the already damaged enemy.

That process is basically one rotation of the duel. If you keep this up, the enemy will not have many chances to capture, and you should win the duel by a longshot.

 

 

The duel: Defensive play

In a perfect world, you could attack the whole duel, and not let the enemy capture once. However, that will rarely happen. At some point, you will have to be defensive.

 

The best cover at this point will be behind the building in your base. The tactic here is to pick up the flag and hide, while popping out to damage your opponent when possible. If your enemy is clearly going to win the standoff, drive towards their base as quickly as possible. Once they kill you, they will have to drive backwards to return, which could possibly buy you the time needed to make a good play and reject their capture.

 

The other modes

While most games on duality will be 1v1 XP/BP, all four game modes are a possibility. They are even more rarely seen than CTF games, so there is not much a need in elaborating on them. However, I will address equipment and general strategies.

 

Control Points

There are 3 points on the map. There are only two people per team, so point control changes quickly. The best thing to do here is control the platform. You can damage enemies at all three points this way, and should be able to keep a relatively strong hold on the game. The best equipment is, due to the small map size, a heavy hull paired with a medium or short range turret- smoky, ricochet, and twins are all good options. Fire and freeze seem like a good choice, but the terrain makes it difficult to damage enemies that are not on the same level as you. Since the teams are only two people, the best team composition will be a heavy hull and medium turret and a medium hull with isida. The isida’s main job is to heal the heavy hull, while making small excursions to damage enemies and capture points, where needed. The heavy hull will be stationary most of the time on the platform, so a medium hull paired with the isida will be helpful for jumping off the platform to capture points B and C.

Deathmatch and Team Deathmatch

These two modes differ in only the number of players in the game. There are no points to hold, and no flags to capture.  Because of this, heavy hulls will be more sluggish than anything. The best hull in this case will be dictator. The height will allow it to damage enemies on the platform and on the main floor, while the health and speed will be a good combination to the small map size. Turrets will be the same as in CP, with the addition of railgun as a viable option. The high damage will deal with medium tanks in 3 or 4 shots, and small hulls with just a few. Shooting and hiding will be the best option. As for team composition, it too will differ from CP. Instead of a heavy hull + medium turret and a medium hull + isida, it is best to have both medium hulls and medium or close-range turrets. This will provide optimal mobility, with a high damage per second.

This concludes the map guide. I hope you found it helpful, and will have fun on Duality

-@Jwimmer

 

 

***This is not final. This line will be removed when the topic is finalized***

 

Damn! You have videos... -_- GG me, I can kiss that 30k goodbye.. :P

[Crip 4,735]

Here is my finished entry. Better late than never I guess :P

 

Good luck to everyone else!

 

 

 

Hello, Tankers! Welcome to my article and insightful look into one of the "Forgotten Maps", which has become overshadowed by other, more visually interesting maps. As you may discover through this guide, there is a lot more to Atra than meets the observer's casual eye...

 

 

Introducing Atra~

 

Atra, a small, compact map which bears resemblance to its cousin, Arena. Both are similar in the way that there is a high upper part above the ground floor. They share graphical features and the overall appearance is similar. However, there are some differences : Atra can support all formats, making it more flexible than its more popular counterpart and he main action takes place on the higher section of Atra, contrasting to Arena, where Tankers seldom venture to the higher places except to camp, quickly gather supplies, or searching for the gold.

Atra starts out its career as a Tanki map in a similar fashion to Sandal. It's a fairly common sight at the beginner ranks, but gradually starts to fade out of sight and by the time you've reached Warrant Officer 1, it's as if its popularity was just a myth.

At my rank, one never comes across an Atra game. Occasionally you might find some die-hard Save the Golders who have vowed to perform an event on every map, or a very infrequent XP/BP game on RU1; but the reality is, Atra is in the unknown to most.

Here is a graph which clearly shows how few players utilise the map Atra. At 1200 UTC every 2 days the number of games on EN2 of Atra, Polygon and Noise was recorded. Here are the results.
 

Note: One of the two Atra battles was a TM clan training, hosted by myself.

 

History and Evolution~

 

Atra's introduction date is largely unknown to the International Community, since its release date only appears to be found on the Russian Wiki. Regardless, the original Atra entered the game on the 8th of July, 2010.

As you can see, the original Atra map (Atra I) was fairly basic, with a base on either end of the map, a high section which was connected to the bases by ramps, and a lower pipe which allowed a more direct route.
 

Atra II was more complex. Small extensions were added on either side of the base, and the underpass was made more detailed. There was also a "secret" room hidden underneath one of the ramps.

Looking at the latest edition of this map, we can divide it into several sections, each of which can be broken down and examined individually.

 

Today's Atra is approximately 135 by 70 metres, with a Surface Area of 9450 m².

 

Map Overview~

 

 

 

The map is symetrical, so both the Red and Blue base are identical.

Bases

The Flag is more open than you might expect, with the holding point effectively joining three paths out of the base. There are 3 small walls complete with gaps for decent camp defending. The walls are large enough for even the largest hulls to remain concealed before moving out to take their shot.

North and South Rises

These connect the bases, running directly from one to the other. Their up-and-down design means you must take care when firing to avoid wasting a shot. Again, there are two walls on opposing sides at the top of each rise, granting decent protection and a suitable camping position.

Upper Section

The top of the map, obviously the most exposed area on Atra. This is where most of the battle will take place.  Again, it offers some protection in the form of two walls, but unless your team has forced the enemy all the way back to their own threshold, it isn't advisable to camp there for long. There is also a peculiar rise in the floor of the Upper section, seemingly added as an afterthought. One may utilise its slops to get decent angles into the enemy base, but it isn't a camping position for the faint-hearted.

Lower Section

 

 

Peace and quiet...

 

Compared to Arena's lower-level, this section is usually ironically peaceful. The thick obstacle in the form of a pipe is usually enough to deter any quick flag escapes (if you're playing CTF). There is a decent camping/defensive position on each side, with a wall for cowering behind cover.
 

Supply Drop Zones~

 

 

 

 

 

As shown by the bar chart, Atra clearly has a higher Drop - Player ratio when compared to similar size maps. Valley, Pass and Short Bridge all can host the same number of players to Atra (10 in a Deathmatch, 5 per team in team games), so are compared to Atra in the chart.

In CTF mode, the drop zones are arranged in a very profitable order for an attacker.
2 Speed Boost zones are located at the exits to the North and South Rises on both sides of the map, perfect for giving the flag catcher that extra injection of speed to outrun its pursuers.

If one exits the Blue base on the North Rise or the Red Base from the South, with some timing there may be a repair kit ready and waiting to replenish your health.

Other drop zones include a Double Armor and a Double Damage located on both the Upper and Lower Sections, helpfully placed for the camper or the point defenders.

 

Controlling the Drop Zones

The lower drop zones can be controlled with relative ease due to their exposure to the defensive fire from both bases. Whoever has the most powerful defense owns the Lower Section, it can be as simple as that.

Meanwhile, the Upper Section zones can be much more tricky. Since players can usually remain out of the line of fire from the enemy base, the Upper Section must be assaulted to be taken.

Once two Tanks with different turrets have cleared the enemies from the top section, a Titan/Mammoth equipped with a close-range protection module (such as one in the "Badger" series) and using Thunder/Vulcan/Smoky can take up a defensive position there.

 

Attacking/Attack Routes~

 

 

 

Routes A,B and C are usable for both sides, with the routes passing via several drop zones.

A and C are best suited to Light and Medium hulled attackers, mostly due to the exposure but also because of the length. The ridges in the ramps on the North and South Rises reduce a hull's speed drastically in some cases. A and C however, pass through the most drop zones, with every kind of Tank-enhancing supply available as a pickup along the route.

Exposure : 8/10
Length : 8/10
Drop Zones : 9/10
Risk Factor : 3/10

Route B passes through the Lower Section. It leans towards heavier tanks, as the winding, but fairly short route does not force deacceleration in the larger hulls. It can be exposed at times,  but Heavy hulls are created to take punishment.

Exposure : 7/10
Length : 7/10
Drop Zones : 6/10
Risk Factor : 3/10

Route D is the most dynamic  route of the four, as part of it involves jumping from one level to the other, meaning the line marked in Red must be used by the Red team and vice versa for the Blues.

This route is the quickest way to the enemy flag, but it is treacherous. After following A from the Blue base (or C from Red) up either Rise to the Upper Section, the most direct route to the enemy flag is to travel straight over the edge. Aim to land near the letter B on the diagram.

Exposure : 6/10
Length : 5/10
Drop Zones : 8/10
Risk Factor : 7/10

Several hulls though, can make it via the more direct route; straight over the wall to the flag. This can only be attempted by either M2 + Light Hulls or M3 Medium Hulls, all equipped with a Speed Boost. It is risky, as when a Light Hull is travelling at high speed it is prone to be unstable. However, the drop in a hull's deacceleration when it hits the slope at point B is removed when one simply leaps the wall.

Risk Factor : 8/10

 

 

To jump, or not to jump...

 

Escaping with the Flag~

 

 

 

 

Note: These can be used for the Blue team as well, just in reverse, since the map is symmetrical.

After snatching the flag from the grasp of the enemy team, you have several ways to return to base as quickly as possible.

If you've attacked from point A, Your best chance of eluding the enemy defense's efforts to return would be to head down into the Lower Section of the map. From here, the covering fire from your team's defense should be enough to get you home safely.

If you've attacked from B however, it may cost you to travel back the way you came, since your hull will lose all of its speed. From B, the best way to escape is to go via the North Rise.

Escape Option C separates from 1 route into 2 possibilities. If you're currently using a turret with a fair amount of recoil, you can head for the point marked D on the diagram, leaping off the Upper Section before righting your Tank with your turret's recoil. However, continuing down the South Rise offers a safer, if longer alternative.

If, after choosing Routes A or C you find yourself in desperate need of cover, one can use the central access to the Lower Section from the Upper (a hole under the central ramp at each side). Use recoil to make sure you don't end up flipping.

You can use these escape routes as a Blue player as well, since the map is symmetrical.

Defending~

For the defenders, the biggest threat will be from attackers above, on the Upper Section.
Midfielders must deal with this, however, it is useful to have an alert defender with a medium hull to make sure the rest of the defense isn't caught off-guard.  The best position for a Shaft is behind the rearmost wall, where it can keep a close watch on the proceedings in the enemy base. It should stay in this position for the entirety of the game.

The wall closest to the edge of the map shouldn't be used by a dedicated camper, since its view is partially obscured by the wall in front. The wall on the edge of the Lower Section offers a much better view of the enemy base, and is enough to shelter a Thunder, Vulcan or Smoky.

 

 

Happy camper...

 

Mining Positions - Red and Blues~

 

 

In an ideal world...

Position 1

 

Defensive Aid : 10/10

Laying a line of mines in this area will protect you from attackers coming from two directions. The line helps to ward off enemies coming from the Lower Section, while at the same time defending from attackers jumping leaping down. Setting the line back helps achieve both defensive goals effectively.

Position 2

 

Defensive Aid : 7/10

Mining in this location will deter attackers from coming down the (South Rise for the Blue team, North for the Red). Will also help to make an escape attempt short-lived.

Position 3

 

Defensive Aid : 6/10

This spot is ideal for preventing enemies from escaping with your flag. Remember to lay the mines a fair distance from the beginning of the Rise, because speedy attackers will leap them from above if no care is taken.

Position 4

 

Defensive Aid : 9/10

Might be difficult to keep these mines in place, but they can be lifesavers. Placing them here basically rules out attack from above.

Avoiding a Stalemate~

If, for some reason, both teams find themselves with each other's flag, the attackers and defenders should promptly switch positions. The lighter, more agile hulls of the ex-attackers will serve them well to dodge incoming fire from the enemy base. Meanwhile, the heavily armored defense (except the dedicated camper), should move up into the Upper Section. Here they, along with the midfielder(s) should blockade the enemy base, with their heavy hulls ideal for soaking up the damage. Thunder is ideal here as it can damage both the Flag snatcher and its healers (if any).

Once the player with the flag has fallen, the midfielder(s), covered by the defence, should move into the base to return the flag.

Equipment Combinations~

Attackers

These players must be reasonably fast and agile to achieve the most out of an attack run.

Option 1: Thunder/Hornet (Role : Pace Attacker)

 

    +  

Essentially just raw speed, the user of this combo will need to be both agile and skillful to deliver for the team. Also can annoy the defenders from above with repeated shooting.
Remembering Hornet's drift can be a lifesaver, and playing with Thunder's massive recoil in mind will also help.

(Armor Piercing Ammo) Removing self-damage will help if you plan to blast your way in from close range. 2/5
(Lightweight Ordnance Autoloader) Damage reduction for shortened reload won't assist your cause. 1/5

Option 2: Hammer/Viking or Hunter (Role : Support Attacker)

 

  +  Or

Viking's decent speed plus the power of Hammer makes this combo a good choice for Atra. It is in your team to create a way through for your Pace Attacker to snatch the flag, and Double Damages make this combo an excellent defense-destroyer. Hunter may be used over Viking if the player finds Atra too precarious for Viking's drift to handle.

(Slugger) Perfect for Atra, giving concentrated fire on a narrow map. 4/5
(High Capacity Drum) May be good for a supporting role , where you fire in bursts. Those 2 extra shots might prove to be vital. 3/5

Midfielders

 

Midfielders must be flexible in their movements yet sturdy enough to take some punishment.

Option 1:  Smoky/Viking (Role : Offensive Midfielder)
 

    + 
Designed to support the attackers through pestering fire directed at the defense, this player can also take up the main attack if a exploitable breach is detected.  Smoky is perfectly suited for a midfielder, as its continuous fire will seriously weaken any defense.

(Assault Ammunition) Won't be particularly helpful in this role. 1/5
(Precision Targeting System) Appears to be perfect for this role, where weakening the enemy defense is its objective. 4/5

Option 2:  Freeze/Viking (Role : Defensive Midfielder)

 

  + 

This player will sit back with the main defense for the majority of the battle, pressing forward from time to time to clear out any enemies that the main defense cannot deal with. It's most important role is to slow down enemy players who have taken the flag.

(High Pressure Pump) May sometimes work against you, but could also help deal full damage to an escaping enemy. 2/5
(Corrosive Mix) Not for a defensive Freezer. 1/5

Defenders

Lots of hull points.

Option 1: Shaft/Mammoth (Role : Defensive Camper)

 

  + 

Role says it all. Camp. Should be positioned behind the rearmost wall in your team's base, which allows parts of the Upper Section to come into range. From this point the enemy base is also in view, perfect for a sniper.

(Heavy Capacitors) Debatable choice. Increasing damage but sacrificing flexibility. 2/5
(Assault Emittors) Will suit a defensive camper better in some ways, but extra reload time on Atra may cost you. 2/5

Option 2: Thunder/Titan (Role : Defender)

 

  + 

Utilising the splash damage is the key to this combo. Essentially you want to aim for places in the enemy base where the splash damage will weaken enemy defenders. Splash damage is handy for killing enemies behind walls. Keep a close eye on your near surroundings with this combo, you must kill your enemies from range or suffer self-damage.

(Armor Piercing Ammo) Going completely against the fundamentals behind this tank's role. 1/5
(Lightweight Ordnance Autoloader) Again, not a great option for a defender. 1/5


Of course there are other combinations worth using in Atra. These are recorded here through personal experience.

Here is a small chart to show my CTF ratings of different Turrets in Atra.

 

Module advice

 

A mixed protection from close-medium ranges will benefit attackers the most.

My suggestions would be a module including protections from Freeze and Fire, such as Badger T-D.

For Midfielders and Defenders, medium range protections are appropriate.

 

Use a module from the Shark or Kodiak Series. Protections from turrets such as Fire and Thunder are important.

 

Paints
 

Whether the go into battle aiming to widen eyes, or just want to blend into the background, you always need a paint.

 

Visual Paints

 

Watercolour - Price : 19.99 Euros

Atom - Price : 150 000 Crystals

Nano - Price : 350 000 Crystals
Camo Paints

 

Liquid Metal - Price : 7.99 Euros

Metallic - Price : 100 Crystals

Prodigi - Price : 55 000 Crystals

Format - CP~



A CP game in Atra can be very interesting, sometimes more so than a regular CTF. Because of the close proximities of Points C and B to A, fighting on the Upper Section can be very bloody. Definitely worth trying out if you haven't experienced it.

Points

A : Located on the very top of the map, holding a clear vantage point over the rest of the map. Capturing this point is the key to success.

B : Located at the summit of the North Rise. As said earlier, Point A is almost within touching distance of this point.

C : Exactly the same as Point B, but on the South Rise.

D : Found in the Lower Section, on the slope down to the floor of the map,  and very close to the Blue base.

E : In the same location as D, but on the opposite side of the map.

Capturing Points~

A : This is a difficult point to take, but much simpler to hold it once it has fallen. 1 or both of C and B have to have been taken by your team before A can be considered. To take it, send forces up both Rises and attempt to capture (if they aren't already), Points B and C. Then pincer point A from both directions.

B : Like point A , this is located on higher ground, making defending much easier than attacking.  Unlike A, it has less protection from below, meaning defenders are more vulnerable. Taking B or C should be a step on the way to capturing the high ground, Point A.

C : See B.

D: Heavily biased towards the Blue side, this point should remain under Blue control for the majority of the game. The Red team can attack it from Point E via the Lower Section or advance from above. The below route is preferable as the Rises are very exposed.
For the Blue team, firm pressure should win back this point quickly.

E: The exact opposite of Point D, but on the Red side of the map.

Equipment Combinations~

Atra CP will show no mercy to Light Hulls. Best to leave them at home.

Here are a few examples of possible Atra combinations.

1: Vulcan/Mammoth (Role : Upper Camper)

 

  + 

This combination is here to severely weaken the enemy as they respawn. Basically the idea of this tank is to sit on the Upper Section's ramp, preferably with an Isida, and blaze away at any enemies that come into view.

(Faster Horizontal Tracking) Since one is camping from above, this may not aid it much. 1/5
(Modified Firing Rate) Not an alteration for campers. 1/5

2: Firebird/Hunter (Role : Defense Incinerator)

 

  + 

This tank's objective is to clear a point of its defenders, or at least severely weaken them through its afterburn. Rapid, powerful attacks on a point with this combo will prove devastating. Remember to attack the enemy Isida first if present.

(Compact Tanks) Best Alteration for any turret in CP mode. Afterburn is eternal. 5/5
(High Pressure Pump) The max damage range boost is a bonus for Firebird in Atra, but the angle of attack is reduced. 2/5

3: Freeze/Viking (Role : Clearer/Cooler)

 

  + 

Offering a different option to a team if enemy Firebird protections are numerous, this combo can also be used to cool continuously firing Vulcans.

(High Pressure Pump) Increased max damage range will be beneficial here on a narrow map, although the angle flexibility is reduced. 2/5
(Corrosive Mix) :  Decent on its own but will be much stronger if paired with HPP. 2/5

4: Twins/Titan (Role : Point Defender)

 

  + 

Relentless rain of plasma, solid hull and decent firing speed; this tank is very well suited to the task of defending a point. Make sure to keep an eye out for close-range enemies such as Freeze.

(Plasma Core Accelerators) Not necessary for Atra due to its small size. 1/5

5: Isida/Viking (Role : Healer)

 

  + 

The Isida is usually the mainstay of an CP team. Its job isn't to simply throw itself at the enemy lines. Instead, it should make sure that a point defence is kept up-to-strength, and support camping Vulcans.

(Broadband Emittors) Inclusion for Atra is  debatable. Smaller map, less range needed. But it will be more susceptible to splash damage while healing. 2/5
(Support Nanobots) A bit of a selfish alteration for a healer, so not suited for this role. 1/5

6: Thunder/Titan (Role : Defender/Clearer)

 

  + 

Thunder feels at home in Atra, so why not include it here? Splash damage can be game changing, clearing whole points of their defence. It also has the added bonus of damaging enemy healers crouching behind a larger tank.

(Armor Piercing Ammo) Not well suited to this combination's requirements of it, although removing self-damage will aid it at close range 2/5
(Lightweight Ordnance Autoloader) Better here than in CTF, as it will be close enough to make its minimum damage substantial. 2/5

Modules

 

 

Like in CTF mode, Close-Range modules are a must, although 1 module slot should have Thunder protection. Badger and Shark are suitable series to choose from.



Deathmatch and Team Deathmatch~

Similar to Arena Deathmatch, an Atra Deathmatch is slightly less fast-paced due to the larger size of the map, although this format can host 2 more players than Arena. Regardless, a dynamic game can result from an Atra DM due to the different levels. There is no danger of 1 player managing to escape the ground and permanently camp from above (like in Arena).

There are several different strategies you can use for this DM. You can use a light/medium hull equipped with a short range turret and hunt your enemies down. One can also use a medium hull and a medium-long range turret, such as Smoky or Thunder and adopt a slightly more cautious approach. The last option is camping, using Titan or Mammoth plus a long range turret and with your back to an edge or corner of the map. Preferably behind a wall for shelter.

In Team Deathmatches one can adopt similar approaches to DM, but the Upper Section becomes a much more favourable place to be, to camp the other team out of the game.
TDMs are usually much less interesting than Deathmatches, since the game will quickly become very one sided with one team camping the other into submission from above.

Using "Striker" in Atra~

 

The new turret is here! It entered the game when this article was halfway to completion. So, I have only been able to test its abilities in this map using the M0 modification during 2 Deathmatches and 1 CTF.  In CTF is seemed to do best paired with a medium hull, and then playing a supporting role in midfield (such as camping on the defense from above). Atra's winding ramps don't suit it very well, as the missiles generally don't like sharp corners.

 

In Deathmatch it wasn't great either, mostly because the arcade mode shot is fairly inaccurate. Regardless, it could be made to work in Atra with a little practice and some perseverance.

Gold Boxes~

With some help from a friend who will be mentioned in the credits, all Atra's gold drop zones have been located and recorded to help you achieve even more.

There are 11 Gold drop zones in Atra, the majority of which are situated on the Upper Section.
To locate the gold zone, the best way to achieve this is to head up either of the Rises and examine the Upper Section before making sure that there isn't a drop zone on the opposite Rise. Then head for the floor.




1) Treat this zone in the same way as you would for the highest Arena gold. Simply wait on either ramp, then lunge upwards as the gold is dropping.

2),3),4) and 5) All can be caught in roughly the same way, though for 3) and 5) it is admittedly easier since the top ramp is much closer to these two zones. The general plan should be to camp for the gold on the top of the ramp.

6),7),8) and 9) Can be taken from above (by jumping from the above ramp) or pushing upwards from below. The choice is yours, as it depends on your hull's speed and weight.

10) and 11) To catch these two golds, it is best to either have a tall hull, like Dictator or Titan, and simply stay on the zone, or use a small hull to climb up onto the pipe, then jump down onto the gold.

 

So, with that I wish to bring this article to a close. Atra is an interesting map, with the CTF mode being very underrated. Definitely worth trying the different formats out for yourself.

I also want to thank all the people who helped me test theories, find information and take pictures. @DEATHDRONEN, @awesomenessrichard2,   for playtesting, @Blackdrakon30 for helping me to find map pictures and for dropping the necessary golds to locate all the zones. I also want to thank you for actually getting to this point in my article! I hope it may have been helpful, insightful and hopefully give you the edge over your adversaries in Atra!

Till next time!

                                                                                                      ~Viperspark~

 

 

Edited December 30, 2016 by Savage

[r_I_already_won0 2,339]

All of these entries are nice! A bit off-topic note for you guys when describing best equipment combos:

 

Remember the M1 Firebird alteration doesn't increase the overall range. ;)

 

Great job all of you!

[Crip 4,735]

 

 

Remember the M1 Firebird alteration doesn't increase the overall range. ;)

I was supposed to remember this when I corrected my article :p