Jump to content
EN
Play

Forum

[Issue 35] Stars 'n Stripes: What to Buy? Part 1


 Share

Recommended Posts

~Stars 'n Stripes~

What to Buy?

~Part 1~

 

 

 

 

You know how it is. You're in your garage with a full crystal bank and want to pick out something worth your while. But, like almost every type of market known to man (or otherwise), there's a plethora of choices and it's difficult to tell which way is up and which is down. Everyone who's played this game, at one point in their lives, has asked themselves the question, "What's the best choice for my play style? What will get me the most kills? Keep me alive longer?" In other words, "What should I buy?"

 

This series is dedicated to players between the ranks of Private - Staff Sergeant and Brigadier - General.

 

 

 

What's On The Market?

In order to buy a piece of equipment in Tanki Online, one of your requirements is that you must be at the required rank of purchase. In this case, we're covering a pretty broad span of items, but in this issue we're going to be focusing mainly on the M0 category. By the way, because Recruit is the starting rank, I'm not technically going to include it on the list of ranks, but the items in stock then will still be mentioned.

 

 

 

Private

180px-Turret_railgun_m0.png

M0 Railgun

An important piece for long ranged players, Railgun doles out high amounts of damage in one penetrating shot. At M0, this weapon has a great longevity, and can even be used effectively long after you pass the WO4 mark. (Not recommended, however, if you have immediate access to other M1 weapons.) This weapon is often favored by players in the lower 'stripe' zone, but most tend to lose interest fast due to its tedious reload time and access to other weapons. The only thing you'd have to worry about with this weapon is the steady stream of Smokies and Twins that will come after you. Planting this on a fast hull, such as M0 Wasp, can allow you to avoid any Firebirds coming your way.

 

180px-Hull_dictator_m0.png

M0 Dictator

If you want some decent armor whilst still having the ability to not be a boulder with treads, then Dictator is the way to go. A less common hull seen at Private next to the loads of Wasps and Hunters, the Dictator has a base 116 HP -- capable of occasionally taking two base M0 Railgun shots. Micro upgrade its defense and speed once or twice, and you have yourself a formidable medium hull. Obviously, its immense dimensions can lead to it being an easy target for other weapons. The worst problem that this machine will have to contend with, however, is the Twins. With its infinite fire rate and a decent 24-32 damage per second, a somewhat skilled Twins user can barrage the Dictator endlessly and destroy it within a minimum of five seconds. With the Dictator's slow speed, a Twins/Wasp will have no trouble getting behind it and unloading. Getting Marsh and medium/long ranged weapon would be a good idea for contending with the lower stripe ranks, where most of the maps are smaller and few other weapons are introduced.

 

Coloring_flora.pngColoring_marine.pngColoring_swamp.png

Flora, Marine, Swamp

With Private, you're introduced to your first protection paints, each giving a base minimal protection of 10%. It may not seem like much at the moment, but sometimes they're worth chancing, especially if you can fully MU them to 15%. (For a rather low price, if I might add. Also, with the update, it won't be as much of a chore to MU them, with speed-ups becoming less relevant.) Flora can remove some damage from Smoky, whilst Marine eases the burning effect and damage of Firebird. Marsh can soften the blows of a Twins user. Probably the most useful paint here is Marine, being the only paint that can resist a secondary effect. Firebird, with the update in place, now relies a bit more heavily on its burning damage than before. With a weaker hull, like Wasp, burning is a bit of an irksome issue (that is, if they're able to catch you). Swamp is probably the second most efficient, removing a small chip from each one of Twins' projectiles. It may not visually look like it's doing much, but if you equipped the paint and took ten Twins shots (assuming the damage is consistent), you would take 1 shot less damage than you would have with out the paint. When it's fully upgraded, it can reduce the damage by one every 6 - 7 shots. That's nearly a second and a half of shooting. Flora, while removing a bit of damage from Smoky, isn't near as compilative until you take a critical hit. Reducing that by 10% can be the difference between life and death sometimes.

 

Gefreiter

180px-Turret_thunder_m0.png

M0 Thunder

The only new weapon introduced as a Gefreiter, Thunder is enjoyed by many players, but it seems sometimes that it's employed onto the battlefield a bit too late. Thunder is the first weapon that can deal damage to yourself, and this can scare a lot of players that are used to using Wasp and running right up to the target. This weapon is less popular than Smoky at this rank, but will gain a lot of notice in the higher 'stripe' ranks. And MY GOLLY, will it be everywhere. Thunder works on pretty much every hull available, but in the higher stripes, the preferred hulls tend to be Dictator, Hornet and Viking. With the splash damage reworked, the newer Thunder users will be given incentive to aim better. So most default-Smoky users think, "Ooh, a new gun that deals more damage, has a splash range, has no protection paints, and looks cool? Buyin' it!" I can't say I disagree with them. It's undeniable that Thunder does seem to have some minorly impressive advantages. The only things that keep this weapon from making M0 Smoky obsolete is its firing rate, consistent gameplay and damage, and the risk of self-damage. That, and Thunder is 500 crystals -- not an easy price for this rank.

 

180px-Hull_hornet_m0.png

M0 Hornet

The compromise to Hunter and Wasp is here. With stats lying almost directly between the two hulls, Hornet has quite some speed to it, yet still has enough base armor to survive two Thunder shots and guaranteed to live versus a shot from an M0 Railgun. Once the Hornet becomes available, it's not uncommon for a map to be totally comprised of these in the medium stripe ranks. It has a similar stance in relation to Wasp: It's fast, harder to control, and great for flags. However, there are a couple of differences to note, besides speed and armor. The shape of Hornet is longer and incongruous to that of Wasp, making it a bit trickier to get out of tight spots by turning. The Hornet has the ability to drift, which forces the player to learn how to play with a consistent flow -- in other words, certain events have a tendency to overlap completely, such as driving while sliding into a new position. With Wasp, it's a bit more of a step-to-step playing style -- when you try to drive the Wasp to the left, it does exactly what you tell it to, with no dally of any kind. Hornet is a bit of a tricky hull to manage for first-timers, but most catch on to how it works pretty fast. You can really almost use anything on this hull, but Twins (and sometimes Thunder) are a bit tricky to use.

 

180px-Hull_mammoth_m0.png

M0 Mammoth

This machine truly lives up to its name. I mean, just look at this thing! With a base health of 161, it almost has the same health as a Hornet with Double Armor. However, the speed leaves a lot to be desired. At a bone grinding base rate of 3.1 mph, watching this thing trying to get somewhere makes me want to tear my hair out of my head. (Especially getting stuck behind one of these in the narrow hallways of Iran... GAH!) A Mammoth on a small map is a very happy Mammoth indeed. However, put a Mammoth on a larger stage, and you're going to have a tough time on your hands. I wouldn't suggest it, personally, but if you absolutely had to use Mammoth in an Aleksandrovsk or Tribute, I'd say pick a long range weapon, like Railgun. If there's a lot of walls, get Thunder out. Mammoth is an absolute no-no for offensive playing in CTFs, due to reasons that should be understood by simple common sense. 

 

Coloring_forester.png

Forester

The only paint available to buy at Gefreiter, Forester is probably one of the most longevous paints to exist in Tanki. I'm a four-star General, and I STILL see people roving about in this paint. One of the best protection paints available in damage reduced in units (not in percents, mind you), Forester eliminates 10% of the damage from a Railgun shot. When we're talking damage per shot in the 75s, that can be a lot. In base, this'll remove about 7.5 damage per shot, whereas 15% (fully upgraded) can take off about 11.3. If you're in a Wasp, this could be the difference between having a badly damaged but still functional tank and having a pile of charred titanium.

 

Corporal

 

 

180px-Turret_freeze_m0.png

M0 Freeze

The second close ranged weapon that you're introduced to, Freeze does exactly what it says on the box -- its special effect, besides dealing damage, is gumming up the mechanisms of an enemy tank with a spray of endothermic, quick acting ice particles. For a good chunk of low stripe Firebird users, this weapon attracts a bit of interest. So, in this point of the game, Firebird and Freeze are split pretty evenly among the servers. With an obviously similar playing style as Firebird, Freeze works best on swifter hulls, like Wasp or Hornet. However, on smaller maps, I've witnessed it doling out heavy damage on Vikings, Dictators, and even Titans. However, with heavier hulls, a weapon with a higher damage per second rate, such as Firebird, tends to do a bit better.

 

Turret_minigun_m0.png

M0 Vulcan

Vulcan is a turret that can deal damage in a similar fashion as a close ranged weapon, but with an infinite range to work with. This weapon is a match made in heaven with players that look a problem directly in the eyes and scream, "MOAR DAKKA!" Armed with a hull such as Titan, Mammoth, Dictator, or even Viking, one of these can easily take on the multitude of Wasps and Hornets in their path. The gyro function has a habit of separating the weak from the skilled, as some new players that use it will be a bit intimidated by having to turn their turret without moving their hull and abandon this weapon completely. The charge-up is another problem that makes this weapon so rare in the stripe ranks. (Strangely enough, the lower ranks is where this weapon is most popular, due to a set of nerfs that experienced players know nearly incapacitated this weapon's efficiency...) Surprisingly, the overheat at the lower ranks is almost completely ignored, due to the almost undetectable damage per second rate, especially when using a heavy hull and Marine.

 

180px-Hull_vicing_m0.png

M0 Viking

One of the most popular hulls in Tanki, the Viking has a standard armor rating of 122.2, while still maintaining a speed of 6.7. Stable, well armored, and easy to drive, Viking becomes incredibly popular at the lower ranks -- at least, when they're able to buy this hull. 600 crystals is a bit of a hefty price, but for those who do purchase it, they never regret their choice. The power levels of this hull, even at M0, can shunt aside almost any obstacle in their path, something that was a bit more difficult to achieve in Hunter. Usually, you'll find weapons like Twins and Smoky resting atop this hull, but in closer ranged maps, weapons such as Firebird and Freeze aren't uncommon either. On maps with a lot of space, such as Rio and Iran, Vulcans are also used with efficiency. Surprisingly, in the stripe ranks, Railgun/Vikings are rather rare, despite the fact that they can fare so well defensively in long ranged CTFs and TDMs...

 

Coloring_polished_metal.png

Metallic

The first paint available to have a protection from Thunder, Metallic is actually the lack of paint on a tank. With a base protection of 12%, micro upgrades can boost that to a healthy 18%. That's nearly 1/5th of the damage removed from each shot. This paint functions best on Wasp, due to the fact that it rarely survives two direct shots from Thunder. Giving it this paint could give it the extra three seconds it needs to launch a counterattack. However, this paint is rather rare until you start fighting Master Sergeants and above, where the dangers of fighting a Thunder become clearer.

 

Master Corporal

 

 

180px-Turret_shaft_m0_2.png

M0 Shaft

In the lower stripe ranks, Shaft is a lot more common than it should be, at least at 1.2k crystals. This weapon is designed for extremely long ranges, such as Rio, or Berlin. As much as I gripe about it, I can even sometimes see its use in Polygon. But my question is, WHY THE FLAB do people think it's a great idea to use this gun in compact maps like Ping-Pong? At this rank, there isn't a lot of discrimination as to where this weapon is used. It's not hard to find every hull from Wasp to Mammoth in a single map using M0 Shaft. The laser scope is almost completely ignored by these players, even when they figure out that their prey is fleeing from the beam. Eventually, in the First Sergeant section, people become a bit smarter with Shaft and start hiding their beams and peripherally searching for prey. The incredible amounts of damage this weapon can do when in hiding can take out entire teams without notice if used correctly. Really, there is no perfect hull for Shaft -- however, mobility from hiding spot to hiding spot is a greater virtue than extreme levels of armor in cases where there is a lot of ground to cover (might I add, the only case as to when you should use Shaft). The only real threats to this silent killer is anyone sneaking up from behind while you're sniping and opponent Shafts that happen to draw a bit faster. So, in other words, it'd be better to keep moving from place to place as a Shaft.

 

Hammer_m0.png

M0 Hammer

"A shotgun on a tank? That sounds awesome! I better go buy it to show off to my frien-- holy cranberries, 1,000 crystals? Eesh, not sure if I can get that right now..." Said everyone ever after ranking up to Master Corporal. A murderous cannon, the Hammer is a serious threat to light hulls on smaller maps. Dishing out 45 damage per shot and 135 per clip, this weapon is almost an instant kill when pitted against anything weaker than a Dictator. Given they have a full clip and are close enough to deal maximum damage per shot, that is. While being labeled as a mid-ranged turret, the Hammer is most efficient at close quarters, due to having a cone shaped spray effect when firing. So, a heavier hull, such as Dictator or Viking, would be great for this gun. However, the price is a bit steep, as fitting for such a systematically efficient weapon -- equivalent to catching one normal gold box. Really, the Hammer's only downside is its limited ranged and the fact that after firing three times, you have a recharge equal to that of Railgun to deal with. Speaking of which, longer ranged weapons such as Railgun and Shaft tend to leave holes in whatever hull this thing is attached to, so it's your choice whether you equip a paint resistant to other close ranged weapons or something to shrug off long distance fire.

 

Coloring_lava.png

Lava

Starting off with a 15% resistance to Freeze, you can boost the paint's capabilities up to a 23% and be set against Freezes for quite some time. (At least, until you're able to buy something along the lines of Python.) The paint of choice next to Marine for close range combat and capping flags, Lava can keep you prepared to take on even M2 Freezes, once you're at the point. Hopefully, you have at least an M1 hull by then. The only real downside to this paint is the obnoxious coloration. It looks neat in the garage, but once it's plastered onto your tank, it seem to make it look more like a toy.

 

Sergeant

 

 

180px-Turret_isida_m0.png

M0 Isida

This is the final close ranged weapon introduced, and is by far the most ambidextrous. Having the lowest damage per second rate of 15.5 is easily compensated by its multiple secondary effects: it can heal teammates on a team-type battle, it can restore some of its own health by taking a smaller percentage of the damage it causes, and it can remove the ever irksome effects of Firebird and Freezes. Of course, the smaller side effects tend to be a bit ignored in these ranks, while simply using it as an offensive weapon. Placed on a lighter hull, Isida can really pull its weight in a team match, but in DMs it loses most of its effectiveness immediately, since its low power doesn't get it far in a large firefight.

 

180px-Turret_ricochet_m0.png

M0 Ricochet

With no protection paints at the rank, this weapon can do as much domineering as Twins could in the lower stripe ranks. No matter what hull this machine is placed on, it can play effectively at the higher stripe ranks. However, it's been noticed that the hull used for combat's efficiency truly depends on the map at hand. Of course, the larger the map, the smaller the hull, and vice versa. The only real threat to Ricochet's reign is running out of ammunition in a clip from repeatedly whaling on an uber-heavy hull, such as Mammoth.

 

Coloring_lead.pngColoring_Invader.png

Lead, Invader

For the less common long-ranged turrets, help is on the way. Upon reaching Sergeant, you'll be introduced to two new paints: Lead for 18% Shaft resistance, and Invader for similar Vulcan protection. With maximum upgrade levels of 27%, buying one of these paints to help you out in the M1 stages can really be worth your while. Although Invader looks a bit more exciting than Lead, the low amount of Vulcans in general is less of a threat than the overwhelming number of M0 Shafts at the time. But, in the end, of course, it's really your choice on which paint you're going to purchase. If you're going to get Invader, make sure your playing style fits with those that you'd find such a weapon on.

 

Staff Sergeant

180px-Hull_mammoth_m1.png

M1 Mammoth

At last, access to M1s finally opens up, and rather at a low relative cost, too: about 3.2k. With an increase in speed by a poor but still applicable 0.25, this machine still deserves the name Mammoth, but it receives a sharp increase in armor-- a whopping 32 points, totalling to about 193. It'll certainly survive longer against incoming short ranged weapons (which it attracts like moths to a flame) , but against weapoins like Shaft and Railgun, the difference is hardly noticeable. It's still usually about three shots per tank without Forester on deck. But why try to find a cooler section of the fan when you can simply douse the flames? Keep Mammoth in smaller maps, and the Railgun quantity should diminish. Thus, leaving you safe to focus on the chewier bits: Close ranged and plasmic weapons (Twins, Ricochet).

 

Coloring_safari.pngColoring_dragon.pngMagma_preview.png

Safari, Dragon, Magma

Two animal paints and volcanic material--a strange mix, if I might say so myself. This is the first rank that the protection percentages vary in paints first unlocked: Safari and Magma can both resist attacks by 20%, 30% if you include maximum MUs, with Safari tackling Isida, and Magma dealing with Hammer. However, Dragon is a bit different. It has an extra 2% against Ricochet, with a total of 33% max protection. Easing nearly one third of the damage can go a very long way for such inexpensive paints--only three thousand a pop for base protections. Paints like these can be viable until M2s start to become the status quo.

 

 

 

What's My Strategy?

Depending on what playing style you have, there are a lot of different ways you can go from here. However, if you want to be able make your way through these stripes as fast as possible while still having plenty of crystals rattling around in your coin box, then here's a set of strategies to take a look at.

 

v v v START HERE v v v

 

 

I'd start out with purchasing Twins first. The infinite reload and cumulative damage can go a long way to getting the points that you need to progress. Stick with Hunter for now, since Wasp and Twins isn't exactly the greatest way to go. Making your way to Private should be a snap and a half. Once you've done that, you have a choice to make. You could either purchase Dictator or Titan, or wait for either Mammoth or Viking.

 

Dictator/Titan?

So, you've taken the more immediate and less expensive route of the lower-stripe medium/heavy hulls. You've won at least a few battles by this point, and you're already past Gefreiter. Since Twins is your plasmic weapon, and you've chosen the less extreme of the midheavy hulls, buying something for speed would be smart. It doesn't matter whether you choose Wasp or Hornet--you're going to want something to put Freeze or Fire on, one of the better pieces of equipment for taking on CTFs. However, Isida isn't too far away, so you might want to take that into consideration as well.

 

Freeze?

You've chosen something that can stop enemies from getting away with the flag. Not bad. It also works somewhat well defensively on that Dictator you may have bought. However, if you chose Titan, you might want to buy Thunder for long ranged defense, since Freeze undeniably does much better on faster hulls. Shaft and Railgun are the last things you need to concern yourself with now, since you have weapons that can take on anything fantasticly at medium to short ranges.

 

Shaft?

If you had purchased Titan, then this weapon may have been one of the best choices you could have made. It can also function with lighter hulls to give a bit of mobile support, but please, don't use this combo for offensive endeavors. For the sake of logic... just don't. Buying something to deal with other long ranged fighters would help immensely here. I'd suggest Lead or Forester. Have some buddies nearby to take care of any incoming cloose ranged attackers.

 

Railgun?

Wasp or Hornet beneath one of these can give you a well rounded garage. Buying a paint that can deal with weapons like Smoky and Thunder would help immensely, since they can easily knock off such a light hull's aim. If you purchased Dictator, you're in for some fun -- DicoRail, also known as AP (a near extinct play style), can play defensive and midfield with ease, throwing off the offensive of any team heading your way.

 

 

Fire?

Hit and run tactics can earn a lot of points fast. Firebird may not be the strongest kid on the block at M0, but M1 isn't too far into the future. In CTFS, you'll find yourself at the front lines more often than the rest of your team, especially if you chose Wasp over Hornet. Buying Marine or Lava would increase your survival chance by just enough to keep you in one piece. Keeping Smoky or buying Vulcan alongside your growing arsenal can help increase your effectiveness in midfield skirmishes. If you bought Titan, Firebird can also play as a death trap for anyone attempting to skip away from your base with the flag. Soemtimes, though, you're going to want to play on a long-ranged field with some capability.

 

 

Shaft?

A pretty big jump from launching flames to launching warp-speed projectiles, Shaft on one of the lighter hulls can give some mobility for suprise attacks, whilst a Fire or Freeze resisting paint can allow you to get a bit closer to their flag and give your allies the upper hand they need to swipe it. (Please beware that it is super flabbing hard to be sneaky while wearing Lava.)

 

Railgun?

Putting any of the hulls within your garage under this sucker can allow for some serious redecorating of the opposing team. with a resistance to some types of close ranged weapons, the next thing you'll need is a type of long ranged protection. You'll find that you'll be pitted in Rail-to-Rail combat often, so buying Forester would be a good choice. Shafts can be a bit easier to dodge if you purchased Wasp.

 

 

THIS IS A RED HERRING

DO NOT BE ALARMED

I AM JUST A NORMAL SET OF WORDS

NOTHING UNUSUAL HERE

ALSO YOU MISSED A RIGHT IN THE CONTEST PAGE

BUT THAT'S NONE OF MY BUSINESS

CARRY ON

GOOD DAY

 

 

 

Isida?

Healing your teamates can dish out almost as many points as destroying enemies, so sticking to CTFs and TDMs can unleash this weapon's potential to the max. Sticking close to a fellow Shaft or Rail can easily give your team the win (and yourself the crystals to repay for Isida). Buying a midranged weapon like Hammer can be a great fast-switch on the defensive, since that's mainly where you'll be hangin' out. That is, unless you follow a teamate up to the flag to heal him and bring it back. A mid-ranged weapon protection would be best for this type of playing, as those will be the type that will go after the flag along with your basic Firebirds. Honestly, as an Isida, you're going to be a bit abused, but it's all worth it when you have the highest score on the winning team. For staying closer to the defensive lines, Shaft is clearly the better option over Railgun, due to the more accurate shooting (generally) and higher damage per shot.

 

 

Mammoth / Viking?

You're going to tough it out and wait for those extremist hulls. Hunter and Twins have gotten you pretty far, but something with a bit more speed would do you well. Since Hunter is such a close model to Hornet, it would be a bit less redundant if you were to purchase Wasp. With Wasp, there's a choice to be made on which type of close ranged combat turret you wish to employ -- Freeze, Fire, or Isida. What's your choice?

 

Freeze?

Freeze can play well on almost any type of map: DMs, CTFs, CPs... the only kind that it would have a bit of trouble adjusting to is TDMs, but that's mainly because only a select few have much motivation to run over to the other base. Selecting Thunder or upgrading from Twins to Ricochet would work well with these hulls. There isn't a lot of motivation to select a long ranged weapon, but the most plausible choice would have to be Railgun. As an offensive and defensively based garage, it lacks a weapon that can fill both of these roles -- and Railgun fits the bill perfectly. Buying Forester, Metallic or Lead to protect from long range shots is a necessity so that you can advance forward and crush them in their own fronts. 

 

Fire?

FireWasp is always a pleasing combo. However, it isn't very well suited for Mammoth, unless you plan on finding some Ping-Pongs and letting lose. Buying Marine or Lava to handle any close ranged fighters that want a piece of you is almost an absolute necessity. With Viking and Wasp, you're going to be on the frontlines everywhere you go, so maybe even Safari should be given a second look. Ricochet or MU-ing Smoky might be a smart purchase. A long ranged weapon is something you're going to need for these battles, so...

 

Shaft?

A decent pair-up with Viking for cover, Shaft would easily be able to round out your garage. A extremitive defensive/long ranged combat turret does its job on the defensive end of the spectrum, something this type of setup needs. Note that Viking is labeled as a universal hull, meaning that almost everything functions upon it. It has better armor than Hunter, but at the same time can still manage a decent top speed in the M0 stages.

 

 

Railgun?

If you can gain access to M1 Mammoth and own M0 Railgun, do it. It can capably lead an offensive beachhead onto an opponent's flag, while also being a nice and annoying wall in singular point CPs. Sure, it takes longer to reach a position than it should, but with a Double Armor attached, this machine is near unstoppabe. At least, until M1 Titan comes out, but that's a different story for a different time. A close ranged paint would be appreciable for this play style. Maybe even waiting to buy Mary would be a great idea, since Freezes absolutely ruin Rail / Mammoth.

 

 

 

Isida?

Mammoth + Isida = PokeCenter for tanks. C'mon, we all had to have made the connection at one point. Anyways, on either Viking, Wasp or Mammoth, Isida can play a vital role on team battles. Your bulbous self can be a long lasting health station, even in the middle of an intense invasion on your own base. You can put your opponents into a stalemate -- "either kill me and worry about gettin' shrekked by those who can lay down some serious damage, or fight for much longer to destroy them as I heal them unmolested." The long ranged weapon of choice here would no doubt be Shaft. Taking out anything that comes near your side of the map, with a ton of health to boot, would be no trouble as your teammates keep pressing forward.

 

 

 

 

 

That's just a small list of possible strategies available. Hope y'all enjoyed the first part of this two part series. Peace!

 

Shedinja_Logo.png

 

 

.

 

Psst! Here's Part 2.

Edited by Hexed
  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good job, but isida +mammy is bad, you should know that :mellow:

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And besides, it's not so bad if you're playing on a mini-map / very lazy. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where's the "Stars?" (Brigadier-General guides)

 

That's in Part 2. Since there's a lot of ground to cover between the two sets of ranks, I needed to divvy it up a bit.

 

Really nice, I enjoyed it. Not for my rank though. :( 

 

for my rank

 

Don't fret, guys; I'm going to be writing more for this series. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hope you do Stars, Stripes, Diamonds, Squares, assorted Polygons, Lines, and everything in between! If what I've seen here is representative of your other guides, I can't wait for guides for my rank!  :wub:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mammoth is an absolute no-no in CTFs, due to reasons that should be understood by simple common sense????!!!! What a about defense?

Edited by aryan180
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Mammoth is an absolute no-no in CTFs, due to reasons that should be understood by simple common sense????!!!! What a about defense?

 

Have you used a Mammoth better than M1? If not, than you would not know mammoth's potential as an effective hull in CTF. I often use M2 Mammy/Rico in Noise quite effectively.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...