That Boar Kit looks awful tempting .With the Birthday Discount , that will do it. FYI EVERYONE- The product kit listing is back in the WIKI. Strangely the "Boar Kit" is not there :huh: .

I have only played 4 months ,but it looks like Mammoth has been "nerfed". At M1 Titan has better protection and at M2 Mammoth, is barely better 298/292. 6 points of protection is nothing on a heavy tank or the game in general. Only at M3 does Mammoth get noticeably better (397/337). Why play the game up to the 2nd highest rank with an inferior tank(mammoth) ? Mammoth is a sucker tank; people buy M1 because it unlocks early and they get/stay stuck with it. But the best M1 heavy hull, Titan, unlocks only one rank later and stays better to M3. Mammoth needs a rework, because basically only a sucker/fool would using one now before M3. However this rework should not be done at the expense of Titan.

:D , I would. much as I like Smoky since it is closest to real tank weaponry*, Rico with those bouncing and homing shots is truly OP(if you can think about/know those shot angles continuously ;) ), and it also can fight close-in weapons like freeze fire Isida hammer and twins. Rico M1, Titan M1, and dirty paint , is my tank of choice. I don't grab flags much, but I usually D/L at 2:1 or better. I don't play DM as I like team battles, but DM is prolly the best place for this combo. I am no constant drugger , but I use them as needed, I have spent $10.47 twice a month(to buy 82K crystals) in 3 months on the game. I don't use repair in a shoot-out, as I consider that real drugging and a game imbalance caused by solely player money levels and negates the need for skill. (cheating , basically) M1 rico would also work well on M1 Dictator. IMO. It prolly does better than Titan on many maps/battle configs, I don't have it so I can't say. It may even be better overall. I am waiting on ranking for M2 Dict, AND A SALE, perhaps I will buy that then. ------------------ * =I drove and shot and slept on and fixed real tanks for 8 years

IMTOTEP is wrong when it comes to smoky. He may be basing his view on M2 Freeze, which upgrades from M1 to M2 in 4 low ranks. However, for Smoky , M1 to M2 , takes a half million XP. Which is several months(3-6) of playing, as compared to Freeze M1 to M2 which could be done in 2 weeks. But no matter, he is more importantly wrong overall, when it comes to upgrades, as you can't make Gizmo rank in 5-6 weeks by his idea of no MU upgrades, for a typical player, no matter what weapons are used. Gizmo takes 1.4M XP, that is quite a few tanks destroyed. Not upgrading Smoky M1 to MU5-7 as a constant smoky user , would probably increase your time playing to make M2(Colonel) by 50%. IMO. To spend 20K or so on the first 5-7 Smoky M1 upgrades, to save 1-3 months of playing to make coronel is perhaps the best bargain in TO. I have given this subject some serious consideration as I am in these same ranks and have run an M1 smoky from MU 0 to 5-7 MU upgrades. However my playing style and maps, converted me to a Rico/Vulcan player. Smoky is nice but it can't throw out the damage I like. And my "lag" often interfered with using such a precision weapon in the "shoot and scoot" mode.

I think the reply post was meant to be funny too. That Athena369 is a second account of some high/max ranked person,IIRC. Then again maybe y'all have history. On the second issue , I had alot of fun yesterday, murdering shafts with my Vulcan/Titan on Lost Temple. I don't think we were on the same server/maps though, as I generally avoid > 1Diamond rank battles, given my own.

Vulcan is a long range weapon, as such it affects long range shaft and long-range railgun users the most. For its "effect" it diminishes thunder, as Vulcan can eat up groups of tanks at medium-long range.

Isida is a bandaid man. I appreciate the hell out of Isidas when I am using a heavy Vulcan platform, as I am sure most snipers do. The real trouble is most of the tanki world is driving light tanks that die in one shot and Isida is seldom needed/used. It is easier with an isida to hurt an enemy tank than to heal a friendly tank as so many just drive by. And the traverse speed of an isida is just awful IMO. Beyond all this , there are a-lot of Isida's that will just drive past you when you are low health; That I don't think is right at all, as it makes non-Isida users , ignore Isidas even more.

I assume you have M1 Not M0. Buy M1 if not, ASAP. As to upgrading M1 , you get the most bang for the buck by upgrading all parameters to about mu5 to mu7. This cost 20K or so. Refer to Wiki on smoky upgrades. Past about mu7 , it is not worth it and totally upgrading Smoky M1 costs 200k+. It is a long haul to Colonel for M2 which costs 115K. Do the first good MU's (5-7), and then save for M2.

I remember that now too. With that I would guess Vulcan paints do not affect heating damage caused by a mounted Vulcan.

Yes it is. Either that or anti-firebird paints might reduce over-heating damage caused by Vulcans. B) Which is it? or perhaps both should/do work. Oh Great Gods of Tanki . P.S.- This is going to be a forum topic in the near future, if nothing is learned here.

So, Do paints with Vulcan resistance reduce over-heating damage cause by a hot Vulcan? I have not thought about this or experimented with it. Although it should work, same as with rico/anti-rico paints and thunder/anti-thunder paints against self-inflicted damage.

With a heavy hull, you can pretty much laugh at M1 twins with M1 Rico, Especially if they are any angle shots to exploit. And head to head at close range, Rico is still favored. I end up with about 40% health left in such matches.

If this happened, in a short time, everyone still playing would have Vulcan and their space bar taped down. The sound of 20 Vulcans firing would cause everyone else to quit.

If you can't pick up supplies , it is a lag problem on your end.

Both sound too "laggy". And the "phantom" one besides adding lag, would also multiply the problems of "ghost tanks" caused by lag or cheating, and any ability or chance to know the difference.

The kits listing was obviously deleted today(per the log). It was there yesterday.

When is B-Day ?

MU M0 Thunder as follows = Damage to 5 , impact 3, reload 2, rotate 4, range 3-4. total cost about 2200. Save rest for M1 ( 39K at full price) - wait for deal or perhaps a Kit Do not fully upgrade an M0 or M1 for that matter. The full MU cost for M0 is like 85 K, and it won't be as good as an M1 with no upgrades and you spent an extra 35K

Only micro-upgrade M1 stuff- 1 or 2 levels. Refer to the WIKI on how much bang you can get past LVL1. It is a waste to upgrade M1 weapons past the first couple lvl's, as what you spend upgrading them a-lot ,will/would prolly pay for M2 versions when you reach those ranks. The only levels you might take past lvl1 or lvl2 , would be damage and protection.

I suggest doing something outside of this game.

That is what I figure. Impact force must be per pellet.

Hammer's listed impact force is listed at a pathetic (19-30) depending on M level (24 at M1). I have been hit by hammers and it seems to knock me a little at times, so it looks like it has more than that. I use Titan mainly, so a 25 or 30 impact might rattle a fender ,but it shouldn't be moving my tank or throwing off aim I don't think. Is the hammer impact force per pellet that hits you or a function of the same? And yea , Hammer does look a little weak. I bought an M1 and it just didn't impress me , and the loading /re-loading was hideously slow/quirky, IMO. Sure you can blast the occasional "duck" with it at close range, but the game is rarely a duck-hunt.

Kits remain during sales. I got three kits on my listing. However there is a cost function for Kits. If what "you" can get in the Kit, becomes cheaper by item, or single purchase,or upgrade , the Kit will disappear. Perhaps the sale has altered this in relation to you.

Vulcan demands a heavy hull. If you don't have a Dictator or Heavier in M2-M3 class I would stay away. Viking "might" work IDK. If you have no experience with Vulcan , I would buy the Rico. Wait for a better deal to buy Vulcan and a hull to put it on. Buying an M1 Vulcan might be a way to get some experience with Vulcan , but at your rank and your rank battles it may not do the damage to get a good feel for it. I'd buy the Rico M3. Of course I am a rico user. I do use Vulcan +DD on a few maps when I get into an anti-sniper rage after getting dinged by too many shafts and rails while in "rico mode".

That is your opinion. However paints are often found in many "kits". I picked up my Dirty in an XL Starter Kit along w ith 2 other paints, 3hulls, and 3 turrets and 50ea supply, for only 8900 crystals. I would agree that just buying paints at full price is a waste. Kits may well be the best way to get them, at a steal, if the Kit contain enough items you want. Paints are an "extra bargain" in many kits. As to using no paint till Captain, I doubt more than 5% of the people who have played this game have followed such a torturous route. Perhaps you did, but that was your preference. To forfeit some kinda of paint advantage is silly, especially as it is easy to tailor paints to certain kind of maps and certain game play styles. As it is, when I play a couple hours I might see one person with a "neutral" paint . The rest of them are using paints and all of them are well below the rank of major/captain. No paint may be the default option for a poor private on the first day, but generally people have paints in a short period of time.