Minotaur at a 3 dime rank would be killer(although all you are really getting is Rhino paint at a good deal (20K?), but at your rank I wouldbe looking for better stuff. Atlas is good if you are a "smoky" player. I am not so sure about it if not. I will comment further , it seems the game has crashed ATM. so I can't check the deals or figs.

Shaft 101, is past sneaky 101 or even sneaky 102. There are enough 'how to" on shafts already. The use of camo paints is prolly Tanki 102 , which comes before any sneaky or shaft classes. But if you want one, Try "lead" paint in bushes. Put on Dio, "Invisible" for effect.

More a matter of if you have a supporting Isida and/or freeze. Another is if you don't mind using health packs. Either way it is a very long time, i.e. till you die.

Worst kind of drugger there is, to heal while you are getting your butt honestly beat. You might as well be (or are) working for Tanki , depriving an player that has you beat for an honest kill, by using the most expensive drug there is. It is the mark of a poor and an unsportsmanlike player, to do that. IMO

Rico M1 rips though the W/O ranks. On a Titan you won't be stealing many flags though.

Rico rips though the W/O ranks. On a Titan you won't be stealing many flags though.

Just shoot them people first. And if they are on your side, It often seems they "accidentally" fall off ledges and maps.

You would be seeing a lot more blacksmith , if they had not nerfed Vulcan as a long range weapon. You are correct on dirty. No better early-mid game long range paint there is. But to fully realize the advantages of dirty you need a heavy hull. Little tanks gain the least. All one shot weapon def paint s are that way. They have to add the ability to survive at least one more shot of a LR weapon or they are not worth it,

I could not find the Mosquito kit to comment on it . Best to save your crystals (Buy M1 rail, then a hull). If there was one kit I would buy at your rank and if it still exists , it would be "starter kit XL" , the paints in there alone make it a good deal.

If you really have something against twins and fight at short range yourself , you could wait on Roger at 5w/o.

Swash really. It is a good short range paint. Desert would serve you better if you fight at Medium range, and That is the key to handle a twins opponent, stay at least 20 meters away. Twins at a longer range and having a twins paints, will greatly help you destroying them or getting out of the LoF. Both Swash and Desert enable you to hide in bushes also, which is a great thing once you realize how to use those masking paints. So swash if you fight short range, desert if you fight medium/long, and desert really shuts down rico. Which becomes a real bogeyman at around your rank. Twins is good at lower.

The key with paints , when dealing with railgun, is using a paint paired with a hull , to survive "shots" at whatever M level. 5% rail on a wasp, will make some difference , you will die about 40% of the time rather than 50%.(My math my be alittle off, used M1's) The key there would be finding the paint that will get you to assuredly survive one shot. This is why there are certain paints for BP/XP matches. Those are the minimum hull/paint combo that can survive one rail shot. This goes with all paints and hulls against the 2 heavy damage one shot weapons(rail and shaft) . Find the paint that enables your hull to survive 1,2,3,4, shot damage increments of which weapon you are trying to defend from. A few paints work against both , you might consider buying one, if it gives your hull of preference the ability to survive another shot than what you have now. And remember heavy hull s get more protection from paints. Lighter hull basically should use a paint (if required) to beat one shot of rail or shaft. With Heavy hulls and paints you get to do multiple shot math to figure out what you can survive. I primarily use Titan and dirty because it is the best cheap combo , than can really shrug off multiple rail and shaft- hits. Hope this makes some sense to some.

The best is recovering a friendly tank from being stuck or upside down. More so if it looks to be hard or impossible to do and/or is under enemy fire.

First person to die, even if they are on my own team.

Placing them in darkly lit high traffic tunnels works well. Especially under any supply drops in the same.

Original Vulcan +Titan with Blacksmith, maybe later switch to a better l.r. paint. If you never had the chance to see or use original Vulcan on a heavy hull, and hear all the railers and shafters wail, you missed out.

Because you can miss by 30-40 degrees and still hit :rolleyes: .

Save the 24K and buy Cedar. Having that extra 20% against freeze with Rustle is not much, as you will still get frozen , plus when using thunder you should not be getting that close to short range freezes anyway, you'll lose that fight, 20% or not. Both do a little against Isida (another short range w), and at least the 5% Smoky with Cedar will help at times in ranged battles, which is what you should be doing with Thunder anyway.

Place mines on supply spots that are in approach lanes. Also mines in dark tunnels, dirt ramps, and bushes in approach lanes, where they are very hard to spot.

Lead is beautiful when you are parked in bushes, and people drive right past you.

Anyone asking for a gold box during team combat, should be treated as a saboteur if on your team, and a first target preference if on the other side.

You have 4 weapons that do not mount well on hornet; rico, thunder, twin, shaft. Need a heavier hull. And Mammy is a pillbox. Hunter while a big step up from hornet in protection, is still not that good for these. Titan while good, is very under-ranked/low powered at your rank. Viking is not much different from hunter and is slower. I suggest Dictator(M-1), it still has fair speed, and has really good protection, and is a good match for thun, rico, twins and shaft(though a little tall there). Your corrosion paint is very good , stick with that. Also , , as to saving for M-2 , buying M1 Dic, is in effect saving for an M2 hull, you are going to have to buy it sometime anyway( might as well get the most out of it). Only exception is if you REALLY, REALLY, are trying to get an XP set ASAP, which it doesn't appear you are, given your wide weapon selection.

A note: Firefox no longer supports Adobe flash.

Well it is apparent you are looking at only one side of the story, and not a accurate side either. The reduction of impact for rail was to make for less flipping in XP and BP games. A flipped tank there is one permanently one less tank in a small number battle. So unless killed( which is a bad idea) compared to outnumbering your enemy in a small tank number battle, particularly CTF. So people just sit there upside down till they SD which means a loss of kills and credits. In short the recoil for rail was done to benefit BP/XP games and players. Flipping tanks in regular battles is and was a fairly non-issue with all the heavier than hornet hulls. And it still can knock most tanks off target with every shot. But rail got a reload speed up last rebal and an increase in damage in the re-bal before that. SO in 7 months they have increased rail twice in parameters that matter in normal battles , and now this reduction in "flipping" ability which was a merely BP/XP adjustment and no "nerf" in the REAL game of Tanki. ++++++++++++++ On other issues , they have further made the short range game an even more unskilled blood bath. And with all the speed increases short range battles are more prevalent. Look at the battles , more than half are always polygon CP's. And with Shaft's further damage increase along with rail shooting faster , you can forget long range battles, unless you like being one of those two. No other weapons can fight a long range battle anymore, because they have been nerfed and/or don't inflict nearly the damage that shaft and rail do at long range. i.e.Smoky, Thunder and Vulcan

That is the whole point of these rebalances.