This might have something to do with it. The game really can't figure out true range when a shot goes bouncing several times , so it may default to something.( range =0) Note: I suppose in the first post, I should have said this effect is not always there, but it pops up rather often , IMO.

Hammer will never hit with all pellets at 50meters. It you want , find an empty map with easily countable 5m squares and nice flat walls too shoot at, you can judge the dispersion at any distances. Hammers hits in a flattened Oval ,The vertical dispersion is not as great as the horizontal dispersion, however vertical dispersion will cause more pellets to miss at close range because most tanks are fairly wider than they are taller. At longer ranges say 50m's, quite a few(4+) pellets are going to miss every tank, both high and low, and right and left.

Buy thunder M1, use with dictaor M1 and try metallic for funsies. and/or if you dont have it yet, buy lead paint A thunder in bushes with lead is a nasty thing PS- change your maps

Park your Isida's next to the Vulcan's in the garage, see which gathers more dust.

In addition to what Baby Sam said. It is also relevant what maps you play on and your hull. Dragon is of course the best default for a rico equipped tank, and metallic for rico because these weapons can inflict self damage. Again adding to Baby Sam , what you perceive as the biggest threat is important. But more importantly what is the biggest threat for the map you play. Overall I would say Lead is the best default paint if it takes your protection to surviving more than one shaft shot, or more than two, depending on your hull. If it doesn't, you could consider something else that just reduces a % of damage, rather than a % of Kills. Also pay attention to the camouflaging qualities of paint, if they say they it "masks" or "blend in shadows" or vegetation or pavement or whatever , believe it. I need to give metallic a try because they hint it messes with autoaim /guidance systems, I want to see that.

Keep playing as you are. Aim toward getting M2 stuff(it becomes really necessary at 3 dime and up). Don't buy nothing before june sale, Although I recommend buying dragon paint given your combo, or maybe lead so shafts can't one-shot you.. You prolly won't make a rank enough to buy M2 stuff directly by june , but you might be able to buy something with M2 in a kit or a good M1 kit. Save till June, ranking up gets slower in the Dime ranks. (addeda-missed you have "in" love paint , I guess that will do) My paint suggestions still stand

Good to see you got 160 repair Kits and the other distribution was good too.

That would destroy your crystals. However I did not know you did not have M1 hunter. Since your plan is to buy M2 Thunder and M2 Hunter on the June sale. Y0u could buy M1 Hunter now just to get used to it. MU all stats 1 level and wait.. M2 Hunter and M2 Thunder will set you back about 120K in June. OR just wait and buy firewall, and M2 thunder in June. Note: the firewall kit will bag you alot of supplies too.

UGH!, well if you can stand to play Polygon CP and Noise CTF , for hours on end :rolleyes: , yea they do generate slightly more crystals but amount is still pathetic, especially since those two maps+formats are the most mindless, lack of skill, bloodbaths in the game.

Well that would be 700-850/hr and of course it was pro-battles. So yea, pro battles pay slightly more on average yet they do have a 5K cost, which would cost X days of playing out of the 30 day pass period. Indirectly the pro-pass is a "carrot on a stick" to get you to play more. Please be aware, not all pro battles are the same as to parameters, and are set up to the advantage of the setter .

At 30 meters standing there I guess so, But at say, 80 meters, it is around 15 points a second. Look at some other M3 weapons and see what their DPS is at 80 meters. While I salute the idea of using an M0 Vulcan in M3/high rank battles , so it can shoot forever; It is still pathetic in strength compared to actual/other M3 weapons, unless I guess if those M3 players you are facing are actually lousy players(rank not withstanding), playing the game too long, buying ranks and high M weapons and making the same errors as NOOBs still.

Earning crystals by fighting regular battles, has turned to C>R>A>P>. I am very lucky if I can make 1k in one hour, usually it is 400-600. Using that criteria it takes 100-200 hours of constant playing to get ONE M2 item. Sorry, but I don't have 240-480 HOURS to put in to get one misely item worth about $10-20 dollars in crystals. Non-buying players should get more than that(500 crystals/hr)=( 4 virtual cents/hr) to entertain the "whales" playing the game. I suggest doubling or quadrupling that, because with all the recent changes bringing it to that level, the game will eventualy run off most free or playing cheap players. And 1000 crystal boxes dropping every 700th kill and having 2-40 players fighting over it, is a sick joke. The game has become strictly a buyers game at anything but M0 level.

Buy Tundra(for Rail def) and Desert(Rico def), (total 58K, possibly 29K on sale) and swap them out depending on the worst threat per battle., plus they carry other protection relevant to short or long range battles. I do this alot currently between Dirty and Dragon, I use Dirty mostly(as Rail and Shaft are the meanest 1 shot long range weapons,plus it is adaptive camo) but if there are too many Rico's I switch to Dragon. Obviously the cheapest way, would be for you to buy dragon(3K) and swap with forrester depending on the main threat. You might want to do this till the June sale , and then do the above(Tundra/Desert) or not. And if you REALLY want to do the "AND", forget Savannah, and buy Clay :lol: That is kinda surprising or those rail gunners don't understand math. Because even an M2 rail with DD(about 180-270), won't kill an M1 Viking with forrester and some armor improvements (230 or so) more than half the time. And no DD , you can't die. Though I don't know , I drive in the open/expose myself on purpose just to suck in a few rail and shaft hits, so they aren't shooting at other people on my side. I must discourage the hell out of people after i get hit 3-4-5-6 times and don't die :ph34r: . Then find a wrench , rinse, repeat. A Titan with Dirty (sometimes DA) can do that.

Strange. Because that is/was :rolleyes: common knowledge when translating Latin to English or vice versa. Plurals are signified by I's instead of S's. Yes , Tanks Online , would have been better and a true translation. "Tanki" seems juvenile sounding in English without considering the Latin construct . But it does add a uniqueness, that makes it a good name.

With thunder and ISI you have most things covered. Rico would be fun but you need a heavier hull than Hunter to put it on IMO. Vulcan has been nerfed too much, firebird is kinda pointless since you have isida. I would go shaft if you dont want rail gun, since thunder is not really a great long range weapon. Though I don't really think shaft is much fun, except occasionally. It works okay with hunter. Need a good camo/long range paint, -lead/dirty/corrosion/etc

I hate to suggest it becuase I HATE failgun. But Railgun M2 would be a good choice as you could play BP, if you have paint for it too. Thunder/Hunter will get you far , for everything else.

I got a hammer. Hammer fires way too slow to be OP, and then the 3 shot reload takes it out the picture for a long time. Maybe if you drive a WASP, hammer might seem OP, other than that, I would look at how you play , rather than how hammer plays.

With the lack of splash damage now, I am liking thunder more as it is a Smoky which inflicts more damage. The slower fire rate doesn't bother me much , as you still shoot/hide/shoot/etc. The splash, while nerfed , can sometimes get fools to expose themselves, for a real shot.

M0 weapons upgrade 1 level. you get a-lot of bang for nothing. M1 weapons can be upgraded 1-5 levels depending. Consult the wiki for the figures. M2 weapon follow the same upgrade rules as M1's. Only at M3 levels are weapons worth upgrading a lot or all the way.

Yea, It is easier than having a sign saying "IB NOOB", or "Please engage at more than 15 meters". :lol:

I only managed to get mine running to about 63 MPH while driving B) , and that was running diesel instead of JP-5(jet fuel), and on a dirt road instead of paved. I could have got more speed given better conditions, and also with a better lack of good sense , as my tank still had some considerable power band left. 80-90 mph was entirely possible. There are accounts and stories of tanks being driven or clocked at 80-90 mph, and some are true. HOWEVER, It is flat out stupid to get a 63 TON tank rolling at more than 70 mph much less 50 MPH, even if you know every nut and bolt on the tank and on the track, and can dirve a tank like AJ Foyt or Dale Enhart could drive a race car. If you wreck , it is like a train wreck at such speeds. There is no reason, except the thrill. As to the game , yea , 40/50 MPH, 70 KPH , is a good limit for track vehicles/TANKS You don't want to wreck going faster , even you could.

Dictator -Thunder M1 at W/O4. or -Titan/thunder M2 at Colonel

lets get real, tanks that go 80 mph and turn on dimes are just not real.. Thoughts? You forgot to add, "Hit horseflies at 1200 meters" :rolleyes: , :lol: , ;) ,

All the WIKI tables now are correct, except for Main article Hull specs.

Double Ditto